1994 Four Winns Horizon 215 5.8L EFI OMC

[alldodge]

Ayuh,..... Considerin' the trim pump has twice the power goin' the other direction, I do exactly the opposite as AD,.....

Run the drive down, 'n wedge a block of wood against the top of the drive, 'n use the hyd.s to push the drive off,....

Agree, but the reason I mentioned only down was thinking the cobra drive didn't have much to use going up like the Merc does

 

[Lou C]

Keep in mind that this drive is the joint venture product which is the same as Volvo SX. The transom mount is very similar to the OMC Cobra, the drive was redesigned to shift with a cone clutch like all Volvos. They can get stuck on just like a Merc or OMC Cobra (driveshaft splines corroded, or gimble bearing corroded to driveshaft). In addition, because this SX design did not use a gasket between the pivot housing and upper drive housing like the Cobra and Alpha do, it can get corroded on right where the 6 mounting studs are because there is nothing to insulate the 2 aluminum housings from each other.
First I'd spray Kano Kroil all round the area where the studs are on each side.
Then depending on access and how flexible you are, you might be able to get some penetrating oil on the driveshaft where it disappears under the rear engine mount housing that bolts to the back of the engine, the coupler is under this, there is an open area on the underside of it.

 

[Lou C]

https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/42294.cfm

Ok look at part #1 (flywheel housing) in the diagram...see the square opening on the underside of it? That is where the driveshaft passes into the coupler, if you use an inspection mirror you might be able to see in there, if so I'd spray Kano Kroil all around where the driveshaft goes into the coupler. Coupler is inside this housing. You will probably have to remove the rear seats, battery, etc anything that is near the rear of the engine to get down in there. This may work, if the d/s is seized in the coupler, if it is seized on the gimble bearing, not so. For that, you may have to cut away a piece of the D/S bellows to spray in there to get to loosen up.

NOTE TO SELF.....do not....ever again....buy a neglected I/O boat...they are nothing but trouble....if not maintained....esp here in the salt pond....I don't plan on ever buying one again....after this....its gonna be all outboards.....and nearly new or new at that......

 

[platinumedge]

So it seems as though I'm caught in a kind of "Catch-22" situation: I need the hydraulic rams to "pop" the outdrive loose, yet the reason I'm trying to get the outdrive off is to access the leaking hydraulic lines behind the gimbal housing!! It appears that the hydraulic fluid leaks out faster than it can generate enough hydraulic pressure to "pop" the outdrive loose.

I've tried trimming the drive all the way down, against the ground, and then cranking the front of the trailer up. But, again, the hydraulic fluid seems to leak out faster than I can crank the trailer up, thereby allowing the outdrive to merely tilt up.

As some of you have suggested, it's entirely possible that the gimbal bearing is corroded to the driveshaft. I am wondering: Would it be reasonable to try to "break" the engine loose first? In other words, using an engine hoist, lift the engine slightly to break the bearing-driveshaft corrosion, then lower the engine back in place so I can use the hydraulic rams to "finish the job?

Another alternative that I'm considering is renting/buying some sort of small hydraulic "pry/spreader" and using that to apply the same force that my rams would normally be able to generate. I'm not specifically aware of such a device, but I assume there may be something out there.

Hope all you dads are having a fantastic Father's Day!!

 

[alldodge]

Remove the cylinders, raise the drive and place wood between drive and transom, then drop the drive on it.

 

[platinumedge]

Well, it was a miraculous Sunday here in Northern Virginia: I was finally able to remove the outdrive from my boat!! But not without some cost: I broke off a small piece of the aluminum housing while having to use a cold chisel to pry the outdrive loose. I wasn't able to uncover another, realistic method to accomplish this feat. Plus, there is additional damage from the chiseling.

I'm pretty sure I can repair the damages and get things running again.

I will call this post "closed" at this time, and reopen a new one to continue the saga and to solicit the amazing help and guidance of everyone that has been so gracious to date.

Best boating wishes to all! And, again, I am in your debt for all that you have provided.