1994 Four Winns Horizon 215 5.8L EFI OMC

[Lou C]

The carb I linked to is calibrated to that engine (Ford 351 or 5.8 Liter). Yes it ain't cheap but it beats the hell out of fooling around with an EFI system that most mechanics won't touch, because most of the parts are NLA...I'll take a simple carb and points distributor any day that can be maintained with easily sourced parts, than an obsolete EFI and electronic ignition system with NLA mystery boxes. A waste of time! Holley carb parts are everywhere although personally I prefer a Quadrajet.

 

[platinumedge]

$536 for that Holley marine carb (20% off for Christmas!) doesn't seem too outrageous to me. But, like blackburb, I haven't purchased a carb in a number of years. Still planning/hoping to use the EFI system.

Plugged in that vacuum/vapor line and fired her up last night. She idles fine and throttles up and down with no problems. I ran several of the fuel tests described in the engine manual and all items I tested are within specs. I think the next step is to clean out the cooling channels and freeze plug ports; reinstall the freeze plugs (2); and do a "cooling system" test. However, another side of me thinks I should just skip all that; put the boat into storage for the winter, since it was sitting outside for 4 winters; and plan to do cooling system tests (and others) in the Spring. Thoughts??

Also, I cracked an area of the distributor base (adaptor). It appears this part is no longer available (3853610). I may be able to repair it, but I'm not sure it would ultimately withstand rugged use. Basically, the area where the port-side clamp attaches no longer has a "lip/ridge," so that clamp doesn't really hold. However, the distributor cap has stayed in place during my last few tests. Looking for recommendations here - do I need to replace the entire distributor ($$'s)? Or I could even tape distributor cap down? I've tried epoxying the pieces back, but they won't stay. Perhaps I need a different epoxy??

I plan to order:

• A new cover (for the winter)
• A new stranded cable for the winch (or maybe a whole new winch)
• A drop hitch
• Muffs
• A speedometer "probe" (don't know what it's called, but the part that goes into the water)

I'll pull the carpet this weekend and post some pics. I really don't see how that is going to be a huge issue, as the rest of the flooring is perfectly solid. Plus, I have done fiberglass work in the past, as well as lots of carpentry projects.

Much appreciate the input, Gents!

 

[Larson220]

Great news that you got it running, dont forget to cap off the port where the vent line was connected in the manifold upper plenum.
As far as the distributor base, you can get it online.
There is nothing marine about that part.
You can use a Standard motor products FD166.
It is a common ford EFI distributor base, not very expensive. You can search for a 1994 Ford Bronco Distributor cap adapter and you will see many available.
It is the same part as the one that is on there, except that is has spring clips to hold cap. Honestly a better method than the screw down one that is on there now.
They all seemed to crack with the screw down cap hold down.
Good luck

 

[platinumedge]

Larson220, thanks for those details about the distributor base. I was a bit concerned and definitely did not want to have to replace the entire distributor!

blackburb, I fully concur with your recommendations. I actually planned on putting this boat into my garage so I could continue working on it during the winter. Lengthwise, I'm good. Unfortunately the boat is a few inches too high to fit through my garage opening. However, if I could only figure out how to remove the windshield, it would fit?! I have been able to remove the upper, aluminum frames, and the glass pieces themselves. But I can't figure out how to remove the lower frames, which have some upright frame pieces attached to them (the height problem).

I was told that these lower frames are attached to the body/gel-coat by way of a foam adhesive; kind of like double-sticky tape. I can see some very small screws, but they could not be installed/removed with the frames attached to the body (it's not physically possible to access them). Can anyone corroborate this concept? If that's truly the case, then I can just pry the lower windshield frames off, and I should be able to back the boat into my garage. But I don't want to bend/break/damage the frames, nor the gel-coat, if they are attached using some other technique.

Cheers!

 

[Lou C]

Be VERY careful fiddling with the windshield frames. The glass is tempered glass and if you twist or tweak it just the wrong way that glass can shatter into a gazillion little pieces. And guess what, that glass...is NLA too. To do fiberglass work the temp should be at least 60 degrees, unless you can put a heater in the garage. Personally I'd wait till spring. You can do the demo work now and cut out whatever patch panels you will need and have it ready to go for the spring. If most of the deck is solid you may be able to get by with a patch job. I did that first but then the area under the rear seat got bad and that job turned into removing the whole deck from just in front of the helm seats all the way back to the engine. Bad stringers were repaired and a new deck installed. I threw out that crappy carpet that caused the rot in the first place and had the deck gelcoated in non skid gel coat. Still solid now (11 years later).

 

[vasy]

Larson220, thanks for those details about the distributor base. I was a bit concerned and definitely did not want to have to replace the entire distributor!

blackburb, I fully concur with your recommendations. I actually planned on putting this boat into my garage so I could continue working on it during the winter. Lengthwise, I'm good. Unfortunately the boat is a few inches too high to fit through my garage opening. However, if I could only figure out how to remove the windshield, it would fit?! I have been able to remove the upper, aluminum frames, and the glass pieces themselves. But I can't figure out how to remove the lower frames, which have some upright frame pieces attached to them (the height problem).

I was told that these lower frames are attached to the body/gel-coat by way of a foam adhesive; kind of like double-sticky tape. I can see some very small screws, but they could not be installed/removed with the frames attached to the body (it's not physically possible to access them). Can anyone corroborate this concept? If that's truly the case, then I can just pry the lower windshield frames off, and I should be able to back the boat into my garage. But I don't want to bend/break/damage the frames, nor the gel-coat, if they are attached using some other technique.

Cheers!

If you want to look up some good boat restoration videos check this: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL02C318B574CD948D
Full start to finish….

 

[platinumedge]

Thanks, all.

I have already been successful in removing all of the glass pieces (a couple of times). And, even though I didn't know at the time, I assumed them to be fragile and, possibly irreplaceable.

I wouldn't try any glass repairs over the winter, but prepping the areas is a good idea. I still need to test alternator, water pump, etc. Speaking of: When trying to remove the power steering pump, the small nipple that the lower fluid line is connected to, just fell off from what appears to be corrosion or rust?? The body of the pump feels like aluminum. I'm wondering if there's a way to weld another nipple on rather than replacing the whole pump - anyone tried this technique?

Unfortunately smaller tires will not be enough. I'll probably get the full cover and rent a storage place nearby so I can check on it occasionally.

The only thing that I would like to verify is that the block is not cracked; and verify that other components of the cooling system are intact. Seeing as how a freeze plug blew out ON EACH SIDE, I would hope they "did their job" and protected the block. But in order this test I would need to reinstall the freeze plugs, get the water pump working (purchase the impeller and reinstall pump), purchase and attach some muffs and run it until the thermostat opened. And then do the whole winterization procedure. I'm not against doing any of that; I'll have to do it all someday!

I guess the main thing is: If the crankcase IS cracked, there's no reason to do much more work on the boat. I wish there was an "easier" way to check the block??

Best,

-- Jeff

 

[platinumedge]

P.S. WOW!! That Frisco's sure got a lot of videos - probby over 20 hours worth! But they look intriguing and appropriate to my situation. Thanks!

 

[froggy1150]

Don't know why they were named freeze plugs.... they should be called sand plugs. They are for removing sand in the casting process. If a freeze popped the plugs CROSS YOUR FINGERS"

 

[bruceb58]

If you lost plugs on both sides of the block, your odds of having a cracked block are high.

 

[alldodge]

Need to look around but can find any old Saginaw PS pump from a junk yard and swap the pump out in the housing. At least I'm assuming its a Saginaw

 

[Lou C]

https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/42288.cfm

looks like a Saginaw to me....

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Stee...on_id.025549398--store_id.366--view_id.792232

the OMC # 3850491 crosses to the Volvo number 3888323

of course I would never pay the Volvo part price. I'd take the pump you got and try to match it up to a reman GM Saginaw pump.

if you do a search there are ways of pressurizing the cooling system with air to find cracks in the block, cyl heads or intake manifold. If a boat was not winterized in a timely manner you could have cracks in any of these. I'd drain that engine if you have not and do the air pressure test. See what you got. Then check out how much damage there is to the deck....and re-evaluate if this is a project worth doing. If you wind up having to replace the engine, I'd do as I've advised. Get a Ford marine intake and a Holley 4160 carb with a mechanical fuel pump. Take off all that efi stuff and sell it on ebay to someone who wants it. I bet you could wind up breaking even if lucky. Then you will have something that any mechanic can fix. A simple Holley 4bbl, for which you can get parts anywhere. Thank God for the aftermarket.

 

[platinumedge]

I will look into picking up a remanufactured PS pump, or going to a junkyard and looking around. A buddy of mine does some fairly "precise" welding, so I'm going to check with him because the nipple is the ONLY part of the PS housing that is corroded. Which leads me to believe it is comprised of something other than aluminum and, therefore, has been attached(read, welded) to the housing separately.

Received muffs today, and I purchased aviation gasket sealer. The question is: Is it wise to reinstall the freeze plugs when it's 50 degrees outside?? The label on the sealer makes no mention of any installation temperature restrictions. Additionally, since I have the camper covers, I was thinking of putting an oil heater (the one that looks like a radiator and is filled with oil) inside and heating the cockpit up for a few hours, then installing the freeze plugs.

A friend wisely pointed out that, if there was a crack in the block or head (pretty sure that neither of the aluminum intake manifolds is cracked), I would most likely be seeing smoke or oil leaking out somewhere. As I've mentioned, I've run the engine a couple of times for 3-4 minutes with no signs of any leaks. (Just being optimistic!)

Another new problem has cropped up. While running the engine last time, I cycled the outdrive up and down a couple of times. Afterwards I noticed ATF leaking from the top of the transom assembly (outside). From what I can tell, it looks like one (or both) of the power trim lines is leaking. I'm unable to find any definitive descriptions about these lines in my manuals. In other words, is it possible to repair/replace/tighten these lines without removing the stern drive?

Thanks Gents!

 

[alldodge]

Don't see 50 degrees as being an issue with the install

As for the drive, I'll leave that one to someone more experienced with your drive

 

[Lou C]

If I recall right you have the joint venture drive, which is the same as the Volvo SX of the same year. Which means that even if you can't get the trim lines from OMC any longer you might be able to source them from Volvo Penta.

 

[platinumedge]

My welding buddy wisely suggested I check the PS housing with a magnet; don't know why I didn't think of THAT earlier. It turns out that the housing is NOT aluminum; which would explain the corrosion. I showed it to him today and he said, since it is the low-pressure side, he would try epoxy first. But he is taking it to his shop on Monday to evaluate further.

I can't really tell where the trim lines are leaking due to them being somewhat hidden by the outdrive housing. So I don't know if a connection has come loose or if the lines have cracked. My real question is whether these lines can be accessed WITHOUT removing the outdrive? (Yes, it is the "joint venture drive ... which is the same as the Volvo SX.") Does anyone have any experience with accessing the exterior hydraulic trim lines?

Thank you so very much!

 

[Lou C]

You have to remove the drive to get enough access. It is easy to remove as long as there is no corrosion between the drive and the transom mount. You need to use the same kind of wrenches that are used on brake line and fuel fittings

 

[vasy]

My real question is whether these lines can be accessed WITHOUT removing the outdrive? (Yes, it is the "joint venture drive ... which is the same as the Volvo SX.") Does anyone have any experience with accessing the exterior hydraulic trim lines?
Thank you so very much!

Remove the outdrive. This will let you check the bellows and the condition of the gimble bearing and seal and also a chance to replace the water seal between the drive and the housing, that is on the top of getting better access.
6 bolts and 5 nuts is all it takes. Drive is heavy, so have a buddy available to help.
Get a wobble extensions, dues to the angle of the nuts, they make work way, way easier without the need of a u-joint.

 

[platinumedge]

AllDodge: You mentioned to use "aviation sealer" to reinstall the freeze plugs. I purchased a Permatex product called, "AVIATION Form-A-Gasket - Sealant Liquid." To understand how it works, I applied some to a couple of pieces of wood and put them together. The product never seems to harden?? Even after several days (at room temperature) it's easy to pull them apart. Just wondering if this is the expected consistency after curing? Or maybe I got the wrong product?

Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

Its a sealer not a glue and doesn't need to get hard. The metal freeze plug is what keeps it in position, the sealer is used to fill IF there are any small voids. After the motor heats up it will dry out more