1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

[beta]

If you use any gasket maker, I would suggest one rated for high heat.

The Permatex ultra blue is rated to 400 so I would hope that is plenty high enough.
I guess I'll do it dry and cross my fingers. Service manual doesn't say to use anything so it makes sense. The fact that there was something on it is what got my attention.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

The fact that there was something on it is what got my attention.

Have you checked that the surfaces are flat? Maybe there was some warping or pitting or something.

 

[beta]

Have you checked that the surfaces are flat? Maybe there was some warping or pitting or something.

Have not cleaned up the surfaces yet but no obvious issues. I'll get the surfaces cleaned up this weekend and recheck for issues. I posted over in the engine forum as well.

 

[beta]

FYI... got an answer from the engine forum. It's 92-25234 Sound blanket glue, but this has been superseded by Bellows adhesive 86166Q1. It's in the materials list in the manual but not in the actual instructions.

 

[beta]

Gelcoat patch kit from Spectrum Color came in and I started working on the hull. I've probably got 60-ish bad spots that I've used the die grinder to clean out and smooth. I was able to get about 40 of them filled with patch and have started sanding them down to be smooth with the hull. I've got more patch material coming so I should finish up the patching over the next few days.

In the process, I've come to the conclusion that I need to do a complete cleaning, polish and wax of the hull. I'm guessing this hull has never even been cleaned, much less polished and waxed. There is lots of oxidation, particularly on the sides just above the water line. The challenge with this is getting the boat lifted off the trailer so I can do a complete job. My current thought is to use 3 engine hoist (I have 1, a neighbor has 1 and I need to find or buy another) to lift it. 2 in the back with a lifting strap between them running under the boat and the third up front with a lifting strap around the hull just behind the bow eye. There is no motor or any of the interior part in the boat currently so the total weight is only around 2,000 lbs.

If there are any other suggestions on how to lift the boat or do the cleaning, polish, wax I'd love to hear them!

 

[Pmt133]

I block boats by sliding them to the teeter point on the trailer then block the rear up and use a rope or something to keep the stern from sliding tied off to a tree or car. Then you drive the trailer out a little and put a jack under the hull after the last cross support of the trailer and lift up. Drive the trailer out, block the front of the keel in front of the jack. Then you only have the 3 points of block to worry about. I've done it with bunks (I assume you have bunks) but it is an order of magnitude easier with a roller trailer.

I've watched tons of people ditch boats onto lawns too. The hoisting works... but is tedious. Fork lift is stupid easy but most people don't have that lol.

 

[Lou C]

I would absolutely get a drain hose. When I had my engine out, a couple people talked me out of installing one, and I've regretted it ever since. Oil changes would be so much simpler with a drain hose.

And if your engine doesn't have the remote oil filter located in a convenient spot, I'd absolutely install one of those, too.

One thing that makes winterizing the boat simpler is to install a nipple and drain plug on the big U-tube at the front of the engine. It's much easier to drain by unscrewing the plug than it is to wrestle the hose off its fitting every year.

Being in salt water for years I have coated the fittings for the hoses on the thermostat housing and front circulating pump with marine grease, and get a set of large picks, the hoses will come right off then. Otherwise, the corrosion will make it tough to get them off. Best grease I have found? Evinrude Blue Triple Guard. Hard to find but worth having!
My engine has the oil suction tube used by OMC and Volvo which works pretty well.
If you can definitely install a remote oil filter housing, it makes the oil change a lot easier but make sure to use one with well-designed hoses, you do not want that to leak. Also we had a discussion about the need to change the by pass valve in the filter mount on the engine block with a higher psi bypass if you do that. If you have a V8 it is easier than on the V6, the design is different between the 2. I still have the normal mount filter but modified the bulkhead behind the rear seats (which come out easily) so it opens like a door on hinges. Then if I move the battery back on that side I can get at the filter fairly easily. The hinges are take-apart hinges so the whole thing lifts off if needed. Makes engine work tolerable.

excuse the dirty deck lol. needs a re-gel coat as well after 20 years of use.

 

[beta]

I block boats by sliding them to the teeter point on the trailer then block the rear up and use a rope or something to keep the stern from sliding tied off to a tree or car. Then you drive the trailer out a little and put a jack under the hull after the last cross support of the trailer and lift up. Drive the trailer out, block the front of the keel in front of the jack. Then you only have the 3 points of block to worry about. I've done it with bunks (I assume you have bunks) but it is an order of magnitude easier with a roller trailer.

I've watched tons of people ditch boats onto lawns too. The hoisting works... but is tedious. Fork lift is stupid easy but most people don't have that lol.

I like this. Where did you place the rear blocks? Seems like you'd need to be away from the centerline to get stability with the 3 points.

 

[Pmt133]

Don't mind the extra blocks as they were for when the hull was gutted. On the outside Chines is usually enough. I do it this way to paint the bottom.

 

[alldodge]

Concrete blocks on concrete/asphalt or other concrete blocks gives me the willies. Putting wood between or on dirt all ok

 

[Pmt133]

Concrete blocks on concrete/asphalt or other concrete blocks gives me the willies. Putting wood between or on dirt all ok

In my defense, I never said it was safe. I also trust my bow eye, strap and winch stand a little too much when slamming the brakes in reverse to get it to slide back that far.

I prefer cradles. But the blocks are always there and handy. I agree they could easily fracture doing it how it is pictured.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Put the fron strap through the eye, not behind

 

[beta]

Manged to get the boat on blocks yesterday. The trailer has bunks so getting it enough forward to get the rear blocks in place was difficult. I can see how the technique @Pmt133 used would be pretty simple with rollers. Here's what I did...

I lifted up the rear with an engine hoist and a lifting strap between the eyelets. That took most of the weight off the trailer and I was able to move the trailer about 6" forward. Due to the trailer design. I didn't have great access to the rear corners still but enough to setup a temporary block system. With that in place, I then moved the hoist to the front and lifted it with a strap through the eyelet. That allowed me to move the trailer a good 4-5 feet forward before the trailer hit the lift. With that in place, I setup a temporary keel block towards the front.

I moved the hoist back to the rear and lifted it again. I now had clean access to the corners and setup the blocks.

Then it was back to the front with the hoist again, but this time I extended the boom arm all the way so I could move the trailer all the way out without hitting the hoist. I removed the keel blocks, pulled the trailer out, then put the keel blocks back in their permanent spot.

This whole time I had a strap from the rear eyelet to my truck so the boat wouldn't go forward as I pulled the trailer out.

It was a lot of "figuring it out on the fly" but it's done. Probably took 2-3 hours to complete. Next time should be much quicker as I know the sequence now.






I removed the rub rail in order to prepare for the deep cleaning and polishing. There appears to be some kind of "tape" behind it. Any idea what it is or it's purpose? The rub rail is screwed into the hull about every 6". Of course, one of the screws stripped coming out. That was a fun 30 minutes.

 

[Pmt133]

Maybe old double stick to hold the rbu rail in place while originally mounting?

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

The tape is probably a guide for cutting off the excess glass when it's pulled out of the mold. There should also be a cut line above the screw holes all the way around, and just down to the glass. That's so any cracks from screwing the rubrail on, because you can't counter sink the holes, won't travel above the rail.

Also, the rub rail will shrink a bit now that it's off. When you're ready to reinstall, start at the nose, get what screws will go in easily, then use a heat gun to soften the rail and allow it to stretch a bit. Do a wide area, and do a screw ~2ft or so away from the last one, and outside of the heated area.

If you heat just a small area, it will become narrow as it's pulled. If you screw within the heated area, it will distort the softened plastic around the hole, instead of stretching the rail.

 

[Lou C]

Can't wait to see this when it's done! Better than a new boat could be built, like a number of the rebuilds that people have done on here. My boat was burgundy/red, no matter how many times I cleaned and polished and waxed, it went back to pink in a few months. Finally gave up with that in 2012 and had it painted in red Imron at a local 'glass shop, they did a great job, it still looks good, all it needs is washing and yearly wax. Colored gelcoats tend to be a lot of work, unless the boat is stored inside.