2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Model J60PLSSE

I'm not getting a spark on any of the cylinders on this motor.

We were running fine with it today, from idle to WOT. After running at idle for some length of time, the motor just quit. We tried restarting and it would run for a couple seconds then bog down and die. We tried pumping the bulb thinking it was a fuel issue (fuel pump). The motor ran strong for about 5 minutes then died, we were running at half throttle then trying to get back to the landing. This time it wouldn't start or even fire. Battery is in good shape, plenty of power to the starter, it cranks strong for however long we need, just no firing.

When I got home, I tried to start it again, still no firing. I pulled all the plugs, they were moist but otherwise looked fine (they are a couple years old, no wear or carbon, very clean). I tried to ground each to the cylinder head, no spark on any. I checked the connections of most of the wires to make sure nothing was loose, I checked the 20 amp fuse, all were fine. Not sure what else to check, any ideas?

thanks.
 

oxbeast1210

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
309
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

If you have a kill switch that is what i would check next
 

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

Other then the key switch on the console are there any other switches on or near the motor normally? The key switch is able to crank the starter, would that eliminate it as a possible problem?
 

Will Bark

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,470
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

You should have a "kill" switch with a lanyard attached to it , make sure the clip is pushed all the way under the switch.
 

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

Thanks, I hadn't thought about that. The clip was under the key switch, but I pulled it off and put it back on to make sure. I tried to turn it over and it almost started, it fired at least. The boats in my garage at the moment, I'll try it for real tomorrow when I can hook up the ear muffs to verify. Do the clips go bad or would it be the key switch itself that may be the issue?
 

oxbeast1210

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
309
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

the connection at the key switch is more likely to go bad look at where the wires from the ignition key switch attach to the kill switch make sure they are making god contact and not corroding also make sure that when the clip is on it fully depresses the button all the way down. If in doubt about the kill switch age or functionality replace it its easy to do and is a cheap safety item that you want to work anyway . and the answer to your question the motor will act completely normal starter will spin the flywheel and everything the kill switch just kills the spark and i will keep it from sparking untill the button is depressed if you need more help just let me know and good luck
 

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

Thanks, The motor started up fine this morning but it cut out after about a minute. I restarted it and held the clip and key in place and it ran normally. I took apart the remote control assembly and removed the switch (the key switch and kill switch are one unit). All the wires look fine, no corrosion or cuts, with good connections. I pushed the key cylinder in and let it out a few times, it feels a little sticky, not real smooth, possible corrosion inside. I'll pick up a new one tomorrow and give it a try.

Thanks for the lesson as well, never gave it much thought as to how the kill switch really works. It makes a lot of sense when you think about it.
 

oxbeast1210

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
309
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

Im sure you probably know this already but when you push your key in you are choking the motor are you sure its dying because of the kill switch or because its not getting enough fuel? did you feel the fuel bulb was it pretty tight or really squishy? anyway if you get the switch replaced and it is still having issues running let me know my guess is that you may be having a fuel issue unless the kill switch clip came off or wasn't pushing down enough on the button
either way please post back the results so others can learn
thanks
 

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

I am familiar with pushing the key, it helps to start it. My son drove the boat a month or so ago and came back with the kill switch clip on the floor. He said it fell off right after they launched and since it still ran they didn't pay much attention to it. Thinking about it now, its an indication something is goofy with the switch.

The bulb seems fine, that was our first concern, we thought it wasn't getting fuel. I replaced the fuel lines and bulb recently, my old one started to leak. I had replaced the VRO a couple years ago with a gas only pump (there was never a separate oil tank), so I was hoping it wasn't that again.
 

oxbeast1210

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
309
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

Ok cool just wanted to make sure you knew good luck and let me know if you have more questions

:)
 

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

I replaced the key switch today along with the trim switch and lever handle cover and repositioned the control on my center console. The trim switch and cover were broken from a while ago so I figured since I had it apart I might as well take care of them. The way my control was positioned before I was never getting full WOT, the lever was interfered with by my windshield.

Seems to be running normal again, won't really know until I take it on the water this weekend. I pulled the lanyard and the motor cut right out. When I push in the new switch it feels smooth with no sticking. I did notice a slight design flaw in the switch mounting. The papers with the new switch said to mount it so the drain hole points downward, but the way my control is cut out and notched, the drain hole points upward. I wonder if this lead to its demise.

Thanks again for the help.
 

Will Bark

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,470
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

My kill switch had internal corrosion down inside the stem which closed the circuit and wouldn't let the engine start even with the clip installed. A shot of battery cleaner down the stem cleaned that up and have no further problems. This is all thanks to the saltwater I run in with salt spray coming in on the console.:D
 

demasb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
17
Re: 2000 60 HP Johnson, No Spark

Update on the no spark issue. The boat ran fine for about 1 hour then it started with the stalling again. We were running it at around idle for about 40 minutes or so (in reverse and forward, its shrimping season in SC and thats how we run them).

I thought the switch replacement would have fixed it. It had the same regression as before, once it stalled, I could restart it and it would run for a short time. Then each time I restarted it would run for shorter and shorter until finally it would start at all. The starter spun the motor well, just no hint of it kicking over.

I played around with the kill switch clip and key, no change, it felt like it wasn't getting a spark. I pulled the gas line where it goes into the fuel pump and pumped the bulb a couple time to see if fuel was able to get to the pump. It was, but it did look a little funny, like it was aerated, it wasn't the color of the fuel in my inline filter, it looked like it was coming out of a faucet. I don't know if this is normal. I pumped the bulb while trying to start it, still no sign of firing. When it was running I kept my eye on the gauges, it wasn't over heating. When I pulled the cover off, the motor wasn't abnormally hot, it felt about right.

We ended up being towed back to the landing. When I got it home, I tried to start it and it fired right up, like nothing was wrong. This morning I noticed a black line of oil or something on the foot just below where the prop connects. I assume this is residue from having too much fuel from my pumping the bulb on the water.

Any ideas what to look for next?
 
Top