2000 Johnson 130 Ocean Pro - Running issues

BRBHorizon

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First of all I'll introduce myself as this is my first post...

We just bought a 1999 Four Winns Horizon 180 BR with a 2000 130 Johnson, it has an Aluminum 14.5 x 19 prop..

All was well at first but then I started having some running issues. As part of the diagnosis I have taken the fuel tank etc out of the equation by running (last night) on an auxiliary tank. I suspect I have a bad anti siphon valve so the whole fuel line is being replaced. The boat/motor sat for quite some time I think before I bought it.

So my remaining issues are...

What seems to me to be a very rough idle. I'm not used to 2 strokes so this may be normal but I suspect not quite. The other is that the specs state top RPMs as being 5500 and I cannot get any more than 4300. I know the tach is accurate because I tested it with a hand held tachometer and it was pretty much bang on.

My speedo says a shade over 40 mph and my GPS says 38 mph (I was going upstream so sounds about right). How does this compare with anyone else with a similar setup?
 

Chris1956

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OK, take a compression test and inspect the spark plugs. If the compression is even and the spark plugs show all cylinders are firing, it may be a simple as too much pitch on the prop.

​Rough idle can be dirt in the idle passages of the carbs. You do have 4 carbs right?
 

SkiDad

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You might need to run it for a while and let it clean up. You could try some mercury quickleen in your tank - just be sure to put the correct amount in and not too much. I have also tried seafoam in my tank and didn't like the result. Now I did get a good result with the seaform spray - just didn't like it when in my tank.

That speed seems right for that rpm but you might want to drop down to a 17p prop to get your rpm up. Your boat is fairly heavy and sometimes they don't come with the right prop from the factory. On my boat for a normal load a 17p puts me about 5100 rpm but a 19p puts me about 4700 rpm. 2 strokes like to run about 5000-5500 - it's actually easier on them.

I have had great success with Pennzoil Semi-Synthetic 2-stoke oil - went through about 12 gallons of it in the last 3 years and my plugs always look good and i don't get a lot of smoke. Speaking of plugs - you should at least pull them out and clean them. When you tighten them back in don't kill them (you are going into aluminum)

i would try these things first and see what happens
 

BRBHorizon

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Thanks for the quick responses guys.

Chris... I had a shop look at the engine when I first bought and they told me the compression was 150 on all four cylinders. I took that to be good. I would have had them look into this issue then except it didn't start until recently. I believe there are 2 actually 2 carbs with 2 ports each but I could very well be wrong. How does one go about cleaning the idle passages?

SkiDad... Interesting call on the prop. I had heard that before but was also told the prop matched the stock. That said, maybe it was never really right. I'll look at getting a 17" It would at least leave me with a 19" as a spare. As for the spark plugs, it came with NGKs and I'm told Champions are better for this motor. A pack of 8 Champions landed on my desk as I'm typing. They'll go in tonight.

I'll give the Quickleen a try but am curious why you didn't like the Seafoam. That's what most others seem to recommend.

I wondered about the oil too. I'm using regular oil right now (Nautilus). I read also that the "red stuff" is better. We seem to have significantly less choices up here in the frozen north (Canada LOL). Is Synthetic Blend the same thing?
 

SkiDad

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that oil is just fine.

the sea foam made my engine run rough when cold. could just be my engine.
 

flyingscott

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Need a model #. DO NOT just run it and hope it clears up with seafoam. Many a rebuild has been performed on that advice, because if you have a plugged orifice in the carb you can get a lean condition long before the seafoam does anything. That can lead to a burn down and the only way to truly clean a carb is to tear it down and properly clean. If those carbs sat a long time were they properly stored or put away full I would be cleaning those regardless. It looks like you have 2 single barrel carbs on that motor easy enough to do. Do a spark test or cylinder drop test before anything to make sure it's running on 4 cylinders not 3.
 

BRBHorizon

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Model # is J130PXSSS The carb can be seen in the link below. I'm very handy but no mechanic so is cleaning I should hiring someone to do?
 
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BRBHorizon

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Don't seem to be able to make the link work. I'm assuming it because it's redirecting to another site. Here's a picture... Carb pic.png
 

flyingscott

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Yup, if you feel comfortable with them buy the FACTORY manual for your motor will tell you everything you need to know. Do not get aftermarket manuals.
Did you put fresh fuel in the motor?
Do the spark test to make sure you have spark on all 4 cylinders? Use an open air spark tester make sure gap jumps 7/16" gap. They cost about $10
Is the VRO still connected on that?
Is that a plastic intake and carb? sometimes they can leak and cause a lean condition.
 

BRBHorizon

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I've actually run the motor several hours now with fresh (high test) gas and fresh oil. It ran fine at first and has only in the last couple of trips started to run rough and it's only really at idle. I would say it runs quite well other than that.. I have a factory manual so will check that out. I have a spark tester so will do that tonight.
Don't shoot me but, do I have to strip the carbs down to clean them or can I do the lazy man's liquid cleaner route? I've taken carbs apart before and regretted it :)
 

interalian

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No, there's no "lazy guy" way to clean the carbs. They need to be removed and disassembled for a proper job. Just take it slow and watch where all the bits go. Get OEM rebuild kits.
 

SkiDad

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well i thought about suggesting the carbs but since you have 4 that is a little bit of work. And not knowing your skill level. If you are hitting 4300 it makes me think it can't be running too bad.

One word of advice watch the carb cleaner in the needle and seats - i don't know what kind you have in there but cleaning my carbs this year cost me a week off the water when I killed one of the rubber seats.

I guess I don't know what causes carbs to go bad when sitting ? My engine doesn't sit that long but when I did clean them they looked like when i pulled them off.
 

Chris1956

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BRBH, That motor has either 4 carbs or 2 two bbl carbs, depending on how you want to define a carb. If you count separate bowls as a carb, it has 4 of them. If you count throttle plates as the main component of a carb, it has two 2bbl carbs.

You will need 4 carb kits to rebuild all the carbs, so I tend to think it has 4 carbs....Rebuild one carb at a time and take your time..
 

BRBHorizon

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Thanks Chris, I was totally confused by how many there were. I'll order 4 kits. One kit includes a float, is that the one?

BTW... I did the cylinder drop test last night and all checked out. I also connected my spark tester (shocked I even found it :)) and got close to 1/2" so I suspect that's all good.
 
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BRBHorizon

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... it may be a simple as too much pitch on the prop...




...That speed seems right for that rpm but you might want to drop down to a 17p prop to get your rpm up. Your boat is fairly heavy and sometimes they don't come with the right prop from the factory. On my boat for a normal load a 17p puts me about 5100 rpm but a 19p puts me about 4700 rpm. 2 strokes like to run about 5000-5500 - it's actually easier on them....


For those who suggested, and explained, the prop pitch issue, thank you kindly! I replaced my prop (14-1/2x19) with a 15x17. OMG what a difference! The boat gets on the plane like a raped ape and I hit, just shy of, 5500 rpm and still managed to get just over 40mph. I cannot believe the difference.
Since I did the de-carb and ran some carb cleaner through, it also seems to idle much better too. I may still strip the carbs down over the winter but for now I'm a happy camper.

Thanks guys. Huge help. Never in a million years would have looked at the prop.
 
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