50hp force no spark top cylinder

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
I have a 1988 50hp force that I just purchased. It is not getting spark on the top cylinder. I swapped the connection to the coils and got spark to the top cylinder. So the coils are good. It appears the orange wire coming out of the CDI is not powering the coil. I did find a green/yellow wire from beneath the flywheel that wasn't connected anywhere. I'm guessing that goes to the rectifier, which I would think wouldn't affect my spark issues. What could cause this - CDI, trigger? How can I test the CDI?
 

jiffyboat

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Messages
114
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

check this out..I'm very sure is the CDI.. or switch box ..is the way mercury and force call them.....bud do your checks first...I think your will the the #16 in the list

Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
General
1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the
pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the
ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the
harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge
windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.
IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the stop wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the CD Module, stator and trigger.
3. Check the stator resistance and output using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter and 511-9770 piercing
probes, as follows:
Read Form Read To Resistance (OEM) Resistance (CDI) DVA (connected) DVA (disconnected)
Yellow Blue 680-850 250-350 180V or more 200 V or more
Yellow Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
Blue Engine Gnd Open Open 180 V or more (a) 2 V or less (b)
NOTE: Remember that the stator may use Brown/Yellow or Brown/Black/Yellow for Yellow and Brown/Blue or
Brown/Black/Blue for Blue.
(a) The DVA reading to engine ground is checking a circuit inside the power pack. If the readings are not fairly equal, swap the stator
wires going to the power pack and recheck. If the low reading stays on the same wire from the stator, replace the stator. Otherwise,
replace the power pack.
(b) Most meters will pick up a small amount of voltage due to inductive pick-up. As long as the voltage is very low, it will not indicate a
problem.
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator and trigger resistance; the trigger wire sets should read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets
(DVA-.5V or more), the stator should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more
from blue to yellow.
2. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the
blocking diode in the opposite pack.
NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:
1. If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
2. If the engine has a CDI stator installed:
a. If #1 and #3 are the ones not firing, disconnect the Yellow stator wire from the # 1 pack and see if the #3 cylinder
starts firing. Is so, replace the #1 pack. If not, then reconnect the Yellow stator wire to the # 1 pack and
disconnect the Yellow stator wire from the # 2 pack and see if the #1 cylinder starts firing. If so, replace the # 2
pack.
b. If #2 and #4 are the ones not firing, disconnect the Blue stator wire from the # 1 pack and see if the #4 cylinder
starts firing. Is so, replace the #1 pack. If not, then reconnect the Blue stator wire to the # 1 pack and disconnect
the Blue stator wire from the # 2 pack and see if the #2 cylinder starts firing. If so, replace the # 2 pack.
ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to
ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, the ignition switch could also be
bad.
COILS ONLY HAVE SPARK WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator
voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
16
Two Cylinder Engines using Combination CD Module with Built-in Ignition Coils (1984-88)
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the Brown kill wires. They MUST be separated from each other. THIS SYSTEM SHORTS THE BROWN WIRES
TOGETHER TO KILL THE ENGINE. The common practice of connecting the kill wires together and shorting them to
ground in order to stop the engine will not work on this engine. Disconnect the Brown kill wires and retest. If you have
spark, check the ignition switch?s ?M? terminals if using remote start. You should have a White wire on one terminal and a
Blue wire on the other terminal. If both the Blue and White wires are connected together, correct the wiring. If the engine
has a tiller handle, check the push button stop switch.
2. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI) DVA 180V or more from
blue to yellow (Note ? On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will read
from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
3. Disconnect and check the trigger resistance; trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V
or more), and open to engine ground.
4. If readings are good, disconnect stop wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts sparking, the problem is likely the
blocking diode in the opposite pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to
ground. If this stops the pack from firing, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also be
bad.
17
Force Troubleshooting
Prestolite ADI Ignitions 1984-1992
Two Cylinder Engines Using Separate Switch Boxes and Ignition Coils
GENERAL:
1. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the
ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the
harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the
pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge
windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.
IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON EITHER CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect all stop wires AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the switch box, stator and trigger.
3. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, or CD-77 and 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA
voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts
or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 ? 800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms
(CDI/RAPAIR).
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
IF THERE IS NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:
1. Check the stator resistance; you should read 680-800 ohms (factory) and 250-350 ohms (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more
from blue to yellow (Note ? On some two cylinder engines, the stator has two blue wires and no yellow wire. The stator will
read from blue to blue). All stator wires should read open to engine ground.
2. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-0.5V or more), and
open to engine ground.
3. If readings are good, swap the power pack output from the ignition coil that works to the one that does not. If the coil that
had spark stops sparking, replace the power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF:
Check the stop circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the white stop wire coming out of the pack and shorting it
to ground. If this stops all spark from the pack, the stop circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad. The ignition switch could also
be bad.
NO SPARK UNLESS THE SPARK PLUGS ARE OUT:
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger.
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Using the CDI meter with the 511-9773 peak reading adapter, (or CD-77) and 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA check stator
voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack.
2. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the
pins from the connectors using the CDI 511-9706 pin removal tool and visually inspect them.
4. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
5. Disconnect the stop wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the stop wires and engine ground, turn the
ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the
harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A STOP CIRCUIT.
6. Visually inspect the stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge
windings, it indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.
Connections Color Code Cross Reference
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 Cylinders) FUNCTION OLD NEW
Pack: White/Orange Stripe Trigger: White/Orange Stripe Trigger Orange White/Orange Stripe
White/Yellow White/Yellow (a) Trigger Green White/Yellow Stripe
White/Red White/Red (a) Trigger Red White/Red Stripe
White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe Trigger White/Green Stripe White/Green Stripe
Pack: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow Stripe Stator Blue Brown/Blue Stripe
Brown/Blue Stripe Brown/Blue Stripe Stator Yellow Brown/Yellow Stripe
Pack: Orange/Blue Coil: White Ignition Coil White Orange/Blue
Blue/Red White Stop Circuit White Black/Yellow
18
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Green and Yellow do go to the rectifier middle posts, Do you have one or two?
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

There are two green/yellow coming from the stator. The rectifier has one empty post and no bolt to hold down a terminal on it. The green/yellow wire that was loose is charred like wherever it came off of was loose and arcing a little. The rectifier post that is empty says AC, which seems like where it should go, but there are no black marks on it like the end of the wire. So I wonder if it could have been attached somewhere else?
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

one goes to the top middle post other to bottom middle post.
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Only three of the four posts will have something connected then. Is that right?
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Here is a pic of my 1989 85hp rectifier, it may be different than what you have. I cannot find a diagram of an 88 with cdi. Hope it helps.

DSC04927.JPG
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

found a cheap CDI to try but no luck. I did notice that I am getting spark on both cylinders. Before I was trying to bump the starter and watch for spark and wasn't seeing it. When I crank it over a second or two longer I am seeing spark on both cylinders. Still only getting one cylinder to run when it is started. Is it possible to have a faulty kill switch or ignition switch do this? It kind of seems like it loses spark when running? It is a blue spark on both plugs so it should be firing...I'm not sure what to do.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

No kill switch nor ignition switch would not kill just one cylinder. Are you sure you have it timed correctly? is the compression good on both cylinders? carb adjusted? did you get the coil wires back on correctly? A pic of the coil side of the engine may give us a better idea.
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

2011-09-02_20-32-07_177.jpgI never did anything with the timing. Since I bought the boat like this it is possible the previous owner did. I had my timing light hooked up and came back in to find out how to check the timing. With my timing light connected I noticed one wire would give me consistent flashes of the light, but the other plug wire would only flash the timing light when I let off the key.

The timing was lined up with a mark all by itself. To the left I noticed 3 lines that I am wondering if those should be the ones lining up. I didn't have it set at full throttle when I did this though. I'm seeing that it says to check timing with the throttle lever at full.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Sounds like you need to static time it. You need to remove and ground both plugs to the engine, disconnect the fuel, push the shift lever to full throttle, tape the interlock switch closed, put the timing light on the top cylinder plug wire, have a buddy turn the key while you run the light. There should be 3 marks in a group, and one to the left of them on the flywheel, you want the group of three. Have the buddy crank the engine while you see where it is lined up. It should be 28 degrees when you do this procedure, that equates to 30 degrees actually running at WOT. Check it and let us know if it is way off or something.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Forgot to mention the timing marks, three together from left to right are.. 32, 30, 28. The mark to the far right is TDC.
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

I did this and it looks to line up with the right side mark out of the group of three.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Okay, so I am thinking coils, plug wires, or bad ground somewhere. Is this a two carb engine or single?
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

single carb. I swapped the wires from the cdi to the coils and the problem cylinder moved to the other coil. I'll look for a bad ground somewhere. I also posted a pic of the CDI block above.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

In your pic there is a red lead floating in the background not attached to anything?
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

I had read in my troubleshooting to disconnect the rectifier and see if that changed anything. So that wire is from there.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Ah... well, have you done a compression test yet?

Edit: Sorry responding to too many folks at the same time. Pull the flywheel and check the trigger, and stator. If you had charred wires this may be an issue.
 
Last edited:

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

I tried rewiring according to this diagram. I am unsure of the trigger wires on this diagram. I have a white/green, green, yellow, and orange. The white/green wire has a red heatshrink tubing on it and the yellow wire has white heat shrink tubing on it. Just want to try that before I have to take the flywheel off. I tried removing the flywheel earlier today with my puller and it did not want to budge. So I'm really hoping I don't have to take it off.
Force50hp.jpg
 

hall0743

Cadet
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
15
Re: 50hp force no spark top cylinder

Any easy way to test the stator or trigger before I have to pull the flywheel? How about the CDI box? Maybe i'm lucky enough to have two bad CDI boxes. I don't have a DVA or the other special testing equipment from the post above.
 
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