'67 Starcraft Islander with way too many parts taken off it.

[Pugetsound]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Im old and some times dumb as a stump. What do you refer to as a stinger. Sounds like a down rigger ball. Your a lucky guy to still be with us. Be careful out there . Pugetsound.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Ok Puget, here is a pic of a stinger for ya. It is heavier than most down rigger balls though and it hurt like the dickens.

 

[dozerII]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Glad your okay Kelly, A guy has to be careful out there. More stripping going on go fiqure. lol I found the easiest way to get the boat off the trailer is with three or four old tires. I pull the boat back off the trailer, with the trailer hooked to the pick up till it is almost at the balance point. Then put two tires on the ground at the stern where you want the boat to sit. block the tires on the trailer and unhook the trailer from the truck. The tongue should be real light now. ( You have a tandem trailer so if you took the back set of tires off this would be easier) lft the tougue till the stern sits on the tires, lossen the winch strap a little at a time and have a helper and your self move the blocks in front of the tires ahead a little at a time till the trailer comes out from under the boat. It works for me!!
Glen

 

[heyyou325]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

I'm also glad you're ok after the stinger attack. Twine works good, and doesn't hurt near as much for holding tarps down. Unless you're clumsy like me and get your feet tangled in it. These other ways to get a boat off the trailer all look better than what I did. I started jacking the boat up, and putting blocks of wood under it, til a jack tipped over. Almost tipped trailer and everything over. And from what I hear is happenning up home, I think you can expect more water there.

 

[Pugetsound]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

I guess it would hurt. I have several of them Ill just use them on the van.

Ok Puget, here is a pic of a stinger for ya. It is heavier than most down rigger balls though and it hurt like the dickens.

 

[MichaelP]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

That could have been really bad. I'll have to start keeping an eye on mine. Glad your OK!
That's a pretty good days work bud. Nice and clean.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Thanks guys, it is appreciated very much. I just did not think that the wind would whip it like that, I had 4 of those stingers up there holding down the trap. Guess I won't be doing that again anytime soon.

This is my short week for work so I am going to try and tackle the top side paint starting on Wednesday. The weather is actually supposed to be nice the rest of the week, so I am hoping that I can get some stuff done.

I have a corrosioin hole in the outdrive hole in the transome. I was going to try and get it welded up but was thinking that would be PITA. So I thought I would maybe add a plate of aluminum over part of the transome by either rivet or welded, not sure which. Below is a pic that I played with and kind of gives an idea what I am thinking. The red is where the hole is and would be covered by the plate which is the white part. What do you all think of the idea?

I know someone riveted a plate on thier transom but I cannot remember who it was that did it.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Looks like a good idea to me.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Thanks Ez, I was hoping someone would chime in.

Had anyone found an off the shelf cover to fit an Islander? If so then could you please let me know where and which one.

 

[MichaelP]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

I believe Jason did a similar patch to his IO transom and I'm about to do something like it too.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

How are you going to put it on Mike? Rivet or weld it on? Jason cut a big section out of his and had a patch welded in and then he recut the outdrive holes, only he went from an OMC Stringer drive to a mercruiser.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

How are you going to put it on Mike? Rivet or weld it on? Jason cut a big section out of his and had a patch welded in and then he recut the outdrive holes, only he went from an OMC Stringer drive to a mercruiser.

Yah buddy, I had a big patch welded on mine, worked out really well. I did have a fair number of additional steps on the inside aluminum skin (hole the size of Texas from the Stringer) to complete that you won't have to which is very good.

You can see there was just a bit of warpage with that much welding going on (big piece of alum). The transom, dropped in and all bolted up, pulled everything back into place right where it should be.

Bruce (alpheus) riveted/bolted his in place. I can't quite remember if they were special flat style deals so he could still get the transom in??? Can't remember now, sorry. His transom was swiss cheese.

One of our OB Starcrafter buddies notch trowled 5200 on a whole new skin, that seemed to work great too.

The key? Keeping it totally flat, completely parallel, and between 2" and 2.25" (specs for the 4.3 anyway, I do think it's the same though, check to be sure eh)

Rock on broham!

 

[MichaelP]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

I plan to rivit mine after notch troweling 5200. But this gets tricky. The transom has to be in first due to the rivits protruding into the wood. I will drill into the transom only as deep as needed and fill the hole with 5200 before installing the rivit. I pity the fool who tries to take that transom apart.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Yea I remember you doing all that to yours Jason and I will have to say that it really turned out good even with the slight warp that was made from welding. I think that I have found someone that can weld in my area so I am going to talk to them this weekend and see what they have to say. I would also like some of the bigger holes welded up as well while it is there if they can do it for me.

Lol Mike, that sounds like that transom is going to be in there for the life of the boat. I was thinking of riveting as well, but would rather weld it if it can be done locally. Ok, if you are going to rivet it how are you going to buck rivets with the wood transom installed bud? What I was thinking to do was to install transom, drill holes for plate and into transom just a bit. Remove transom and drill holes in it the size I want for the rivets, install rivets and plate. Then put transom back in with 5200 in drilled holes and there you would have it. I just don't understand how you will do the rivets with the transom installed unless you are going all the way through it and those would be some rather large rivets.

 

[GLG fishing]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Why not make a large patch with one of those old street signs you got? Put the transom in, drill the holes cut the keyhole then put the patch on and mark your holes on the patch. Cut and drill the patch apply your choice of sealant and use the bolts that hold your leg on to keep everything in place. Add a few bolts or screws around the outside of the patch and your done. I don?t think the thickness of the patch will affect the motor and leg if you use a street sign. Others may be more knowledgeable as I?m not up on my merc stern drive specs.
GLG

 

[MichaelP]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

I plan to use blind rivits. GLG is right on the money. I think street signs are .085 thick, there abouts.

 

[GLG fishing]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Can't say its a original thought as I saw it on another thread and just put the two together.
Thanks should go to Losdinspace:facepalm:

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Yuppers the signs are right around .08 thick. At least a speed limit sign is, not sure about others just yet:facepalm:. I will be getting some more very soon I am hoping, my buddy is doing some work in another town and gets to replace a whole bunch of signs.

GLG, I don't think the patch thickness will affect things when they go back together either. I would like to have the patch welded so that there is not a chance of something or someone catching an edge or corner of the patch. I am going to butter the back of it with 5200 when I install it. But if I can't get it welded I will probably do just as you say and add some screws or rivets on the outside edge.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Well when I removed the rub rail it had some sort of sealant that had failed and was nasty. So I got out the grinder with a flapper wheel on it and started cleaning things up.

I know there are some out there that are questioning my reason for removing the paint on this tinny. Well the paint is old and crappy and it is cracking and here is a close up of the nasty stuff.

I got to looking at the lower window and I know it leaked and I really did not want to just put more sealant over the top of old. And the only way that I can replace it was to remove it. This turned out to be a little more than I expected it would be. However I do have power tools.

This is one of the holes that was under the window, I am really glad that I decided to remove it.

This is the same hole after I did some cleanup on it. Man there was a lot of crude under that window, and am really glad I had the grinder with flapper wheel.

 

[KellyC]

Re: Well I did it now!

Re: Well I did it now!

Man this took a lot longer than what I thought it was going to. But then I am not the quickest thing around either but did work at steady. I did remove the hatch lid though, man that thing is in bad shape as well, no pics of that though. If I remember I will get one tomorrow of it.

Here is a pic of the ring for the hatch, it is starting to crack and will need to be repaired if I keep it.

Well I got to looking at things and noticed that a lot of the pop rivets were bad and a couple missing altogether. I got to removing the bad ones and it wound up like this.

I did find these cracks when messing around in there. I think they were caused because the wood that goes right under that window was rotted out on the ends and it was not attached to hull at all. I am hoping that I can get them welded up because I am not sure how I would fix them if I can't get them welded.

They are not real bad but I don't want then to go any further either. So anyone have any suggestions on how to fix them if I can't get them welded up? They are on the part that is at the bottom of the window and then turn out towards the sides of the hull.