87 50HP VRO Evinrude - Could this be my problem?

F

FishAtFive

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I'm refreshing myself on how to do a link and sync for this motor (E50TLCUD). How can I tell if it has "fast start"?
 
C

Crosbyman

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Messages
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here is one answer from chatgpt...fwiw...just give it your engine mdl # for further details... see last parag.
Q 1987 50hp VRO can you list steps to do a link and Sync

ChatGPT said:​

Sure 👍 — here’s a step-by-step “Link and Sync” procedure for a 1987 Evinrude/Johnson 50 HP 2-cylinder with VRO (same basic procedure applies for 48/50 hp models from mid-80s to early 90s).
The goal is to properly synchronize carburetor throttle plates, timing, and throttle cam pickup so that fuel and spark advance happen together and the engine idles and accelerates smoothly.

⚙️ Tools & Items Needed​

  • Timing light (12 V powered)
  • Remote start switch (optional)
  • Screwdrivers and wrenches
  • Tachometer (if available)
  • Factory service manual (recommended for exact specs)
  • Feeler gauge (for idle stop screw if required)

🔧 PREPARATION​

  1. Warm up the motor — run on a test tank or flushing muffs until at normal operating temperature.
  2. Ensure idle timing, throttle, and cam adjustments are not tampered with yet — if they have been, you’ll reset them here.
  3. Throttle cable disconnected from the throttle arm (you’ll reconnect after syncing).

🧭 STEP 1 — Set Throttle Plates to Fully Closed​

  • With the throttle arm against the idle stop screw, both carburetor throttle plates must be fully closed, but not binding.
  • Adjust the link rod between upper and lower carbs if needed so both plates close simultaneously.

🧭 STEP 2 — Set Cam Follower Roller to Pickup Point​

  • On the throttle linkage, there’s a plastic roller that rides on a cam marked with an engraved line.
  • With the roller just touching the cam, rotate the throttle slightly.
  • The roller should align exactly with the scribed line on the cam when the carb throttle plates just start to open.
  • Adjust by lengthening or shortening the throttle cam link rod.
🟢 This ensures timing advance begins exactly when carbs start opening.

🧭 STEP 3 — Set Ignition Timing (at full advance)​

  1. Put the motor in forward gear (important for correct timing) and run it safely on muffs or in a tank.
  2. Advance the throttle to wide open while cranking (not running).
  3. Using a timing light, check maximum spark advance against flywheel marks.
    • Typical spec for your engine: 28° BTDC (check your specific model tag or manual).
  4. Adjust by moving the timer base stop screw until the light shows the correct value.
⚠️ Do this cranking only, not running, for safety unless the factory procedure specifically calls for running.

🧭 STEP 4 — Idle Timing & Speed​

  • Return throttle to idle.
  • Start the engine and adjust the idle timing screw so it idles smoothly at:
    • 700–750 RPM in gear (in water)
    • ≈900–950 RPM in neutral
  • Adjust air mixture screws on each carb (if adjustable) for smooth idle—turn slowly in or out 1/8 turn at a time.

🧭 STEP 5 — Reconnect Throttle Cable​

  • With the control box in neutral and the throttle lever at idle, adjust the cable barrel so the throttle arm rests just against the idle stop screw without moving the linkage.
  • Lock the barrel nut.

🧭 STEP 6 — Final Check​

  • Advance throttle slowly—verify:
    • Timing advances smoothly before full throttle.
    • Throttle plates reach fully open at full control travel.
    • No binding or lag between carbs.
If all’s smooth → you’re Linked and Synced ✅
Would you like me to include the exact factory specs (timing degrees, pickup point mark location, idle RPM, etc.) for your 1987 50 HP model number (e.g., E50ELCUD or J50TLCDC)?
That’ll let me post precise numbers instead of general ones.

You said... :​

yes

ChatGPT replied :​

Perfect 👍 — I’ll give you the factory link & sync specs that match your exact model.
Can you please confirm the full model number from your engine’s ID plate or transom bracket?
It should look something like:
  • E50ELCUD (Evinrude 50 HP, Electric start, Long shaft, 1987)
  • or J50TLCDC (Johnson 50 HP, Tiller, Long shaft, 1987)
Once you give me that full model code, I’ll list:
✅ Idle timing (° BTDC or ATDC)
✅ Maximum timing advance
✅ Cam pickup setting
✅ Idle RPM (in gear & neutral)
✅ Specific notes for VRO-equipped models

Can you read that tag for me? It’s usually on the port transom bracket or the core plug (round aluminum freeze plug on top of the block).
 
S

saltchuckmatt

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
2,982
Crosbyman said:
here is one answer from chatgpt...fwiw...just give it your engine mdl # for further details... see last parag.
Q 1987 50hp VRO can you list steps to do a link and Sync

ChatGPT said:​

Sure 👍 — here’s a step-by-step “Link and Sync” procedure for a 1987 Evinrude/Johnson 50 HP 2-cylinder with VRO (same basic procedure applies for 48/50 hp models from mid-80s to early 90s).
The goal is to properly synchronize carburetor throttle plates, timing, and throttle cam pickup so that fuel and spark advance happen together and the engine idles and accelerates smoothly.

⚙️ Tools & Items Needed​

  • Timing light (12 V powered)
  • Remote start switch (optional)
  • Screwdrivers and wrenches
  • Tachometer (if available)
  • Factory service manual (recommended for exact specs)
  • Feeler gauge (for idle stop screw if required)

🔧 PREPARATION​

  1. Warm up the motor — run on a test tank or flushing muffs until at normal operating temperature.
  2. Ensure idle timing, throttle, and cam adjustments are not tampered with yet — if they have been, you’ll reset them here.
  3. Throttle cable disconnected from the throttle arm (you’ll reconnect after syncing).

🧭 STEP 1 — Set Throttle Plates to Fully Closed​

  • With the throttle arm against the idle stop screw, both carburetor throttle plates must be fully closed, but not binding.
  • Adjust the link rod between upper and lower carbs if needed so both plates close simultaneously.

🧭 STEP 2 — Set Cam Follower Roller to Pickup Point​

  • On the throttle linkage, there’s a plastic roller that rides on a cam marked with an engraved line.
  • With the roller just touching the cam, rotate the throttle slightly.
  • The roller should align exactly with the scribed line on the cam when the carb throttle plates just start to open.
  • Adjust by lengthening or shortening the throttle cam link rod.
🟢 This ensures timing advance begins exactly when carbs start opening.

🧭 STEP 3 — Set Ignition Timing (at full advance)​

  1. Put the motor in forward gear (important for correct timing) and run it safely on muffs or in a tank.
  2. Advance the throttle to wide open while cranking (not running).
  3. Using a timing light, check maximum spark advanceagainst flywheel marks.
    • Typical spec for your engine: 28° BTDC (check your specific model tag or manual).
  4. Adjust by moving the timer base stop screw until the light shows the correct value.
⚠️ Do this cranking only, not running, for safety unless the factory procedure specifically calls for running.

🧭 STEP 4 — Idle Timing & Speed​

  • Return throttle to idle.
  • Start the engine and adjust the idle timing screwso it idles smoothly at:
    • 700–750 RPM in gear (in water)
    • ≈900–950 RPM in neutral
  • Adjust air mixture screws on each carb (if adjustable) for smooth idle—turn slowly in or out 1/8 turn at a time.

🧭 STEP 5 — Reconnect Throttle Cable​

  • With the control box in neutral and the throttle lever at idle, adjust the cable barrel so the throttle arm rests just against the idle stop screw without moving the linkage.
  • Lock the barrel nut.

🧭 STEP 6 — Final Check​

  • Advance throttle slowly—verify:
    • Timing advances smoothly before full throttle.
    • Throttle plates reach fully open at full control travel.
    • No binding or lag between carbs.
If all’s smooth → you’re Linked and Synced ✅
Would you like me to include the exact factory specs (timing degrees, pickup point mark location, idle RPM, etc.) for your 1987 50 HP model number (e.g., E50ELCUD or J50TLCDC)?
That’ll let me post precise numbers instead of general ones.

You said... :​

yes

ChatGPT replied :​

Perfect 👍 — I’ll give you the factory link & sync specs that match your exact model.
Can you please confirm the full model number from your engine’s ID plate or transom bracket?
It should look something like:
  • E50ELCUD (Evinrude 50 HP, Electric start, Long shaft, 1987)
  • or J50TLCDC (Johnson 50 HP, Tiller, Long shaft, 1987)
Once you give me that full model code, I’ll list:
✅ Idle timing (° BTDC or ATDC)
✅ Maximum timing advance
✅ Cam pickup setting
✅ Idle RPM (in gear & neutral)
✅ Specific notes for VRO-equipped models

Can you read that tag for me? It’s usually on the port transom bracket or the core plug (round aluminum freeze plug on top of the block).
Click to expand...
Crosby...you always have the coolest stuff!
 
F

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
32
Last edited:
S

saltchuckmatt

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
2,982
FishAtFive said:
Yep, it's an E50TLCUD. (I have it memorized at this point)

Also, I need to get my hands on a tachometer. I know the plug on the controls is for one. If you guys know any sneaky tricks to see the rpms I am all ears. To be honest I haven't really dug into it yet.

Edit: I am going to give this a try:

Hopefully I didn't just waste 13 bucks.
Click to expand...
I have one and it works ok. I tried to extend the wire once and it didn't work. Mine goes out a little but works well enough to give me the information I need.
 
C

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,875
some tach's use a small refective stick-on piece of foil on the FW and optically calcutate the rpms...


got one in my stuff but never got around using it to fine tune small Mercs.
 
Last edited:
C

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,875
saltchuckmatt said:
Crosby...you always have the coolest stuff!
Click to expand...
I am now using ChatGPT for all sorts of questions... it is a basic CHAT GPT service free of charge...It does make some small mistakes sometimes but if you tell it it goofed it will even show humility and correct itself... a bit scary when you think of it....but smart .. it is learning !! just like Colossus in the movie Forbin project...
en.wikipedia.org

Colossus: The Forbin Project - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
 
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F

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
32
Thanks for the tachometer suggestion, I was able to cancel the wire one and am getting the laser one instead. Also thanks for the link and sync instructions. Hopefully I can find the time to get it all back together this weekend.
 
S

saltchuckmatt

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
2,982
Crosbyman said:
I am now using ChatGPT for all sorts of questions... it is a basic CHAT GPT service free of charge...It does make some small mistakes sometimes but if you tell it it goofed it will even show humility and correct itself... a bit scary when you think of it....but smart .. it is learning !! just like Colossus in the movie Forbin project...
en.wikipedia.org

Colossus: The Forbin Project - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
Click to expand...
Okay...not sure what all that means but lots of stuff you put out is over my head.

I'll see if I can play around with it but my phone already has been taken over by AI. In fact recently it was wrong and I filed some business taxes incorrectly. I have a bone to pick with Mr AI! 🤣
 
F

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
32
racerone said:
The key is to be pushed in AND held in while cranking it over.----That should make for near instant starting.----When motor fires, stop pushing in on the key.----Push key in as needed if motor falters.
Click to expand...
So when I get it all back together, I will do this. The one thing I will say though is that what I see in the past is that no matter what I do, the motor fires, the starter gear drops and then the starter keeps going until I let off the key but the motor never gets beyond that first fire. In other words, the motor will catch, gear will drop (so starter is no longer turning the flywheel) but the motor never actually starts. I do this over and over again over the course of a few minutes and the more I do it, the more it wants to catch, until it finally does barely and by that time my battery is drained.

Im hoping with the link and sync, I did find the idle jet might have been clogged (or it was just residual gas?), and the cleaned reeds it will now work.

So in a nutshell I need to sync the two carbs to each other, then make sure the butterfly is closed all the way, line up the roller with the first mark, and then as I advance the throttle it should move the timing and the throttle together.
 
S

saltchuckmatt

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
2,982
FishAtFive said:
So when I get it all back together, I will do this. The one thing I will say though is that what I see in the past is that no matter what I do, the motor fires, the starter gear drops and then the starter keeps going until I let off the key but the motor never gets beyond that first fire. In other words, the motor will catch, gear will drop (so starter is no longer turning the flywheel) but the motor never actually starts. I do this over and over again over the course of a few minutes and the more I do it, the more it wants to catch, until it finally does barely and by that time my battery is drained.

Im hoping with the link and sync, I did find the idle jet might have been clogged (or it was just residual gas?), and the cleaned reeds it will now work.

So in a nutshell I need to sync the two carbs to each other, then make sure the butterfly is closed all the way, line up the roller with the first mark, and then as I advance the throttle it should move the timing and the throttle together.
Click to expand...
In a nutshell, yes. Watch online videos....there's many. Than do it once....you will learn even if you do it wrong.

I know what scenario your talking about but we're on post 58 or something so I'm not going to back and hunt around....isn't this the thread where you were having starter issues too? If so it might be the starter.

Anyhow, on the L&S...each step has to be in it's chronological order or it won't work...remember that.
 
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FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
32
Ok guys I finally have a solid clue to what the problem is with the hard starting, now I just need to chase down the solution. Here is what I found:

Last time I used the boat I charged the battery when I got home. Then it sat for two weeks not on the charger. Note this is a new battery manufactured in April of this year. 750 MCA. Only once have I forgot to charge it overnight when I got home.

1) Crank crank crank with the key pushed in - not starting.
2) Unplugged the primer hose from the upper carburetor
3) Turn and push the key while starting -> no fuel coming out
4) Spray some fuel into the carbs with a spray bottle -> started ok
5) PUSH the key while it is RUNNING -> fuel comes out of primer hose

Went to run an errand so put the battery to charge, as I always do. Half hour later:

6) Crank with the key pushed in - fuel comes out of primer hose and starts right up

Conclusion -> low fuel pressure when starting.

This should be easy to troubleshoot, I think it is one of the following:

1) Starter not turning fast enough (battery, or starter, or charging system)
2) Bad fuel pump
3) Crankcase VACUUM leak

I'm going to put #3 aside since I've already repaired the VRO delete leak and confirmed the reeds are good. So if there is some other leak, unfortunately I think that is way above my skill level.

I had to wrap it up for the day, but this is the first time I've been able to point to something and say "this the the problem" so I am pretty happy about that. 🥳🎉

My next steps will be to test (in no particular order):

- Starting RPMs
- The battery
- The charging system
- Fuel presssure
- Fuel pump
 
S

saltchuckmatt

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
2,982
FishAtFive said:
Ok guys I finally have a solid clue to what the problem is with the hard starting, now I just need to chase down the solution. Here is what I found:

Last time I used the boat I charged the battery when I got home. Then it sat for two weeks not on the charger. Note this is a new battery manufactured in April of this year. 750 MCA. Only once have I forgot to charge it overnight when I got home.

1) Crank crank crank with the key pushed in - not starting.
2) Unplugged the primer hose from the upper carburetor
3) Turn and push the key while starting -> no fuel coming out
4) Spray some fuel into the carbs with a spray bottle -> started ok
5) PUSH the key while it is RUNNING -> fuel comes out of primer hose

Went to run an errand so put the battery to charge, as I always do. Half hour later:

6) Crank with the key pushed in - fuel comes out of primer hose and starts right up

Conclusion -> low fuel pressure when starting.

This should be easy to troubleshoot, I think it is one of the following:

1) Starter not turning fast enough (battery, or starter, or charging system)
2) Bad fuel pump
3) Crankcase VACUUM leak

I'm going to put #3 aside since I've already repaired the VRO delete leak and confirmed the reeds are good. So if there is some other leak, unfortunately I think that is way above my skill level.

I had to wrap it up for the day, but this is the first time I've been able to point to something and say "this the the problem" so I am pretty happy about that. 🥳🎉

My next steps will be to test (in no particular order):

- Starting RPMs
- The battery
- The charging system
- Fuel presssure
- Fuel pump
Click to expand...
99.9% chance solve why it's not priming and your cured. I wouldn't even stick the hose back on the carb nipple until fuel comes out everytime you push the key. If it was mine, I would have solved this a long time ago.

If you suspect the fuel pump, become the human fuel pump and pump the primer bulb while doing the above primer test.
 
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