96 50 HP Acts like battery is dead

[Nickstoyz]

So this outboard has been nothing but a headache. Earlier this year I replaced the exhaust adapter plate gasket and other gaskets in there for the exhaust in the cowl problem. Got it all back together and ran great. A few weeks ago I had a fuel problem, wouldn't start. Today I had the time to rebuild the carb and fuel pump and it started right up. So i put all my tools away and start it again. I decided to give her some gas, just high idle. It was running great but then it started to slow down and eventually die. So I try to start it and it barely turned over, just like a dead battery would sound. I was getting water out the tell tale and I felt the block and wasn't hot. The only thing that I noticed that there seemed to be a lot of water coming from the seam the the trim assembly when running. I never noticed that before. I did check the battery and it checked over 12 volts. I'm lost

 

[Jiggz]

You most likely have broken ring/piston that is dragging the motor. Or it could be that water has intruded into one of the cylinders. Open and inspect by removing the head. Save the gasket if you can and post pics of the pistons. The water coming out of the seam is an indication either the water tube is not aligned or there's a large leak in the exhaust plate or head gasket.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Inspect the plugs: water, uneven burn?
Do a compression test, post results?

Get a battery load tester, about 25$ and a Hygrometer(not from HF)
I got my load tester at Harbor Freight $21
One of the few tools that actually work from them.
Your battery can read 12v and have a dead cylinder.

Starter, clean the inside.

Check the oil in the lower unit, sometimes the bearings seize and slow the turning of the motor.

 

[Nickstoyz]

Hello all, so I pulled the plugs and they look good. Pretty much like new. Decided to see if the motor would turn over and it did. Sounded good. I will do a compression test next.

 

[Nickstoyz]

So I could only check the top cylinder 152. The bottom I couldn't access with my compression gauge. And also it turned over for my first check. But my second check it wouldn't. I pulled the bottom plug and it turned over. and also had the same reading. Sunday is my first chance to get it out of the wate .

 

[Jiggz]

Goodluck. But if the problem persists, try jumpering the battery with a known good battery. And if the problem still persists, I can only speculate of two things, the starter needs overhaul or rebuilding (i.e. cleaning the armature and replacing the brushes) or something is "dragging" in the bottom cylinder. Of course, you still cannot rule out the LU until you actually drop it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Not sure where in the world you are(fill out the profile???) but in the US most auto stores loan compression testers.
Do another test after you clean/rebuild the starter.

 

[Nickstoyz]

I thought I had it filled out. Looks like it is. I'm from Mayville but I have a place on fox Lake.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Mayville, NY Wisconsin, Minnesota?
There's a box somewhere on the post that says "check to include signature"

 

[Nickstoyz]

Fox lake WI.

 

[Nickstoyz]

So I got a better compression tester. I'll be checking that bottom cylinder tomorrow.

Nick Schicker. 96 50 HP Forc . Fox lake Wi.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If the comp is close? then check the battery, the leads, the connections, the starter.

 

[Nickstoyz]

Hello all, got to check the compression today. I'm getting 120 in both cylinders with this new tester. So I guess what puzzles me is that the motor was running great in a high idle. Not a full WOT but just enough to get some higher rpms Then it just slowed down and died. That's when my no crankover issue starte . It only cranks with the plugs out. I need to get this thing out of the water to do a thorough inspection. I'll update when that happens. thanks to all that helped so far. The pontoon is on fox lake.

 

[Jiggz]

As previously mentioned, start with the easy ones. It's not unusual that the negative cable attached to the engine block will become loose or corroded. Do not just visually inspect it, instead disconnect it from the block clean it with wire brush and sand paper until shiny (do the same with the mating surface on the block) and then reconnect tightly. Conduct a test again and see if that helps. You might want to cover the connection with a film of anti-corrosion grease.

 

[Nickstoyz]

Sounds good jiggs. Thanks.

 

[Nickstoyz]

So I got it started today. Freshly charged battery. Did the same thing the other day with no success. It had a rough time turning over but it started. So I will work on that starter next. So next will be my water issue Nothing coming out the pisser but coming out below the lower cowl. i have video. But cant upload it out her. I'll try late . Reception sucks. but I'm glad it did star . All connections I cleaned and tight.

 

[Nickstoyz]

Upon inspection I found out that all 6 bolts for my powerhead were loose!! I had them all torqued and loctite. And I know I had to recheck and torque after a few runs. But I had maybe two hours on it after the gasket job. I tightened all the bolts but water was still leaking. I will be ordering new gaskets. Is there something other that blue loctite I should use?

 

[Jiggz]

Actually no gasket sealant is required if you do it correctly assuming the head is not warped. You can try removing the head again and clean both mating surfaces. Preserve the gasket if all possible. Reinstall and make sure the head is in full tilted position and use some temporary tape to hold the gasket in place to make sure it's perfectly aligned. Replace the head while ensuring the gasket stays and then start hand tightening head bolts from center going outward in a spiraling direction.

Double check the gasket for alignment and then remove temp tape holding it and start torquing in 3 step fashion in spiraling direction from center going outward.

Tips for torquing:
3 steps means dividing the require torque in three segments. For example (this is just an example) 22 ft-lbs is the required final torque, then you should start torquing all bolts starting with 7 ft-lbs. Then start all over again from the center and torque them again to 14 ft-lbs and then all over again to 22 ft-lbs.

This is the kicker:

After torquing all bolts to 22 ft-lbs, you still need to go back from your starting point and check for 22 ft-lbs on each bolt while making sure none will turn or move more than 1/8 of a turn. If it does, continue to check the rest of the bolts for 22 ft-lbs and then come back again to triple check each bot for 22 ft-lbs until none moves more than 1/8 turn. You will continue doing this until no bolt moves or turns more than 1/8 turn. Then you can conclude all bolts are torque properly.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The head bolts are tuorqed to 100 in.# 11.3 NM
Way different than the old 225 in#

6 bolts?? there are 10 head bolts.
Or you talking about the bolts on the adaptor plate? there's 6 bolts there?
They also use the same tuorqe as the head bolts.
They use a "drylock" bolt. It has the thread locker on the bolt, red or blue Loctite will work.

 

[Nickstoyz]

Thanks for that info. Yes must be the adaptor plate bolts. All 6 were loose. So I will pull it all apart. If those were loose, probably other bolts loose to. I ordered new gaskets just in case. I'm gonna try and snug them up a little more. Hopefully get some water out the pisser so I can get the boat to the launch. Otherwise I'll just use the trolling motor. launch is about a block away so not to bad. I'll be headed to harbor freight Monday to get the load tester. Using my 25 % off super coupo . Lol. Probably buy a new starter to.