Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating help !

Jasoniboat

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Guys, what you are looking at in the picture is a 1 inch PVC pipe that runs from the end of the 'in floor ski locker" toward the engine/bilge. The pipe is about 2 feet long.

I went to install the drain plug today. When doing this, I discovered a crack in the PVC. If you look close, you can see that the PVC is cracked and pushing in the drain plug opens the crack. The new drain plug I purchased is 7/8 ".... before I was using a much longer plug that may have stressed the PVC and cracked it. Anyway, surrounding the PVC is existing 4200 ( which hasn't been a problem)

Earlier today, I tried to repair this PVC crack my using "marine tex" and essentially going around the top of the top and side of the pipe. Well, after several hours, I thought it had cured and I inserted the drain plug and tightened it down a bit and the crack opened again.

So, I broke away the "marine tex" off of my existing repair attempt with a screwdriver.. it was more like hard plastic.

Anyways, any thoughts on how to do this repair ?

My thought was to use the 3M 5200 I have on hand and coat the outside and inside crack of the PVC.

But, I am getting a little frustrated and didn't want to act on impulse.
edited by Jason on 4/27/2012
edited by Jason on 4/27/2012

--
Beginner Boater with:
18 ft, 1997 Searay 185
4.3 Liter, V6
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

I'd use a couple of these and let it set up over night. Wash everything down with Acetone first. Totally bridge the PVC from side to side and it won't break again.

http://jbweld.net/products/marine.php
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

I'd use a couple of these and let it set up over night. Wash everything down with Acetone first. Totally bridge the PVC from side to side and it won't break again.

http://jbweld.net/products/marine.php


Woodonglass, thank you !

So, this stuff is going to be stronger than the "marine-tex" I tried, right ?

I read the product description on the jbweld and it looks like pretty good stuff. Hopefully this will do it, I definitely don't want to replace the pipe itself.

Can you explain what you mean by "totally bridge the PVC."... I am not too mechanically savvy. Do you mean use the jb weld around the entire outside perimeter of the PVC ( or at least the portion of the PVC that is exposed) ? I am thinking I don't want to go inside the PVC ( if I can help it ), so that the drain plug will still fit, etc.

thanks again for the help !

Jason
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Yep when it cures you can drill it like metal and even tap it with threads for bolts.
Bridge it like this....
bridge.jpg
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

IMG_0184.JPG
Yep when it cures you can drill it like metal and even tap it with threads for bolts.
Bridge it like this....
bridge.jpg

Great, thank you Woodonglass. ( looks like the image came out in the upper left corner, Woodonglass)

I attached an image with one more question :
The base of the PVC pipe and lower 1/4 of the pipe is surrounded by 3M's 4200. When I bridge the new JB Weld material, is it ok if the bottom portion of the "bridging triangle" ie JB Weld material (as in your diagram) is in contact with the 4200 ?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Yeah, Just wash it all down good with Acetone first and you'll be good to go. I think you can get the Water Weld @ ACE Hardware.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Clean out the caca-doody... er 4200 and use a PVC pipe coupling with PVC solvent and glue.
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Yeah, Just wash it all down good with Acetone first and you'll be good to go. I think you can get the Water Weld @ ACE Hardware.

Woodonglass, just to clarify... I want "WATERWELD, PART # 8277

http://jbweld.net/products/water.php

NOT JB MarineWeld part # 8272 for this job, CORRECT ??

Thanks again for all the help !!
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Either one will work. I like the WaterWeld. But... JNG has a good point. If it's possible to clean the goop off enuf to slide a pvc coupler on it and glue it then that would be preferable.
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Sounds goods, thanks, Woodonglass.
 

Grandad

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Clean out the caca-doody... er 4200 and use a PVC pipe coupling with PVC solvent and glue.

I think this is the simplest, cheapest and bestest fix. Cleaning all the caca off is probably required before any good fix. Sand down to bare PVC. Assuming this to be schedule 40 PVC pipe, couplings are readily available. Cut one in half if you want to keep the original stopper size. Better yet, remove the barrier in the center of the coupling and leave it full length for additional strength. PVC solvent sets in seconds and solvent welds/seals are very strong. - Grandad
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

I think this is the simplest, cheapest and bestest fix. Cleaning all the caca off is probably required before any good fix. Sand down to bare PVC. Assuming this to be schedule 40 PVC pipe, couplings are readily available. Cut one in half if you want to keep the original stopper size. Better yet, remove the barrier in the center of the coupling and leave it full length for additional strength. PVC solvent sets in seconds and solvent welds/seals are very strong. - Grandad


IMG_0194.JPG


Thanks Grand-dad, I agree. However, my concern is that the PVC is cracked almost all the way to the wall of the ski locker.... so I have very little "good pipe" to work with, in order to secure the coupling.

Can I still add a coupling with such a small amount of intact PVC to work with ( less than a 1/4 inch) ?

Thanks for all the great comments, I need to log off for now, but will be back in the am to continue to hash this out !

thanks guys !!
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Guys, I am going to visit the hardware store that deals a lot with PVC. Both solutions sound great, and coupling would probably be preferred, but I have such a small amount of good PVC to work with and the 4200 would be a big job to cut out and remove. I am thinking I will try the JB Weld products. But, we'll see what the specialty-hardware store says. Maybe there is someway I can couple a new section of PVC.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Hey guys..just a few quick questions..

1. Why is there a plug for that drain tube ? I dont understand why you would want to plug up the ski locker.

2. Are you sure you want to use an 'expansion' plug ? You might be better off gluing a slip to pipe coupler on there so you can use a PVC pipe plug or cap.

Happy boating :)

YD.
 

Bondo

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Hey guys..just a few quick questions..

1. Why is there a plug for that drain tube ? I dont understand why you would want to plug up the ski locker.

2. Are you sure you want to use an 'expansion' plug ? You might be better off gluing a slip to pipe coupler on there so you can use a PVC pipe plug or cap.

Happy boating :)

YD.

Ayuh,.... After readin' this, That was My 1st thought,....

Why are ya pluggin' up the hull's Drainage...

A well drained bilge it pumpable....
A bilge that don't drain, Rots the hull...
 

Jasoniboat

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Messages
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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Hey guys..just a few quick questions..

1. Why is there a plug for that drain tube ? I dont understand why you would want to plug up the ski locker.

2. Are you sure you want to use an 'expansion' plug ? You might be better off gluing a slip to pipe coupler on there so you can use a PVC pipe plug or cap.

Happy boating :)

YD.

Hi, Yacht Dr :

good points. I know the Sea Ray came with a plug they even have a little wire to hold the plug. Only thing that I can think of is that, without the plug, water from the bilge flows right into the ski compartment since the PVC connects the ski compartment to the bilge.

Not a bad idea about the slip to pipe coupler.
 

Grandad

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Thanks Grand-dad, I agree. However, my concern is that the PVC is cracked almost all the way to the wall of the ski locker.... so I have very little "good pipe" to work with, in order to secure the coupling.

Can I still add a coupling with such a small amount of intact PVC to work with ( less than a 1/4 inch) ?
I wouldn't shorten it. The existing stub including the cracked part is about the length of a coupling. Why shorten the pipe? Although cracked, you still need the strength provided by that length. Slide the coupling over the cracked section as well as whatever good pipe you can cover with it. Seal will be on the good part and support will still be provided by the cracked part. (Dry fit before gluing with solvent to ensure the coupling will slide on fully!) - Grandad
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

Hi, Yacht Dr :

good points. I know the Sea Ray came with a plug they even have a little wire to hold the plug. Only thing that I can think of is that, without the plug, water from the bilge flows right into the ski compartment since the PVC connects the ski compartment to the bilge.

One would think that the Ski locker is higher up then the Bilge .. so its kind of the opposite then what you suggest.

I would hate to see the bilge filled up so much that it starts to Flow into the Locker :) ..

If your bilge Did fill up so much that it forward flowed into the locker..then you need to fix that issue. There should be No water in the Bilge. The ski locker will fill up and should drain into the bilge.

Unless you like standing water in your locker ...

YD.
 

Jasoniboat

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

One would think that the Ski locker is higher up then the Bilge .. so its kind of the opposite then what you suggest.

I would hate to see the bilge filled up so much that it starts to Flow into the Locker :) ..

If your bilge Did fill up so much that it forward flowed into the locker..then you need to fix that issue. There should be No water in the Bilge. The ski locker will fill up and should drain into the bilge.

Unless you like standing water in your locker ...

YD.

Good point. In the PVC from the ski locker is nearly level with the bilge. I don't generally have water in the bilge. But, even after pulling skier's some water gets in the bilge and it easily finds its way into the ski compartment via the PVC pipe that connects the two. The bilge and the end of the ski compartment (where the PVC pipe is) is only a few feet.

I am going to have someone a little more knowledgeable come over and take a look at it for me.

Maybe I am making this more difficult than it is.

thanks to you all for the suggestions... one ore more of them is sure to work !

I have cleaned out the area and this is what I have now. 2012-04-28_08-47-04_703.jpg
 

iCam

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Re: Any opinions on how for a repair that seems simple, but is getting frustrating he

The only reason I would want to plug the ski locker would be for it to double as a livewell. Is this a fish and ski model? You may of solved my "where do I put a livewell in my ski boat" question I have been asking myself.
 
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