Becoming a spray painter?

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks YD, right now I think the Imron and most of the PPG paints are above my skill and equipment level. Still w/o power to the garage and it's also raining again. Anxious to get started and give it a try!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

I researched the Epiphanes Enamel paint and it appears to be an oil alkyd based enamel, just like Rustoleum, Valspar and all the others. I could not see much difference. Pretty sure you could use the standard Acrylic enamel hardener with it just like the others. Up to you though. I've never used it. Just my Thoughts and opinion.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks Wood,

The color I am looking at with the Epifanes is Dark Blue #3108 or the Brightsides, Dark Blue #4990. Also really like the Perfection Mauritius Blue though I don't know how hard it would be to work with and spray for a novice such as myself.

Would most likely spray the Epifanes straight up w/o adding a hardener.

 

[zool]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks YD, right now I think the Imron and most of the PPG paints are above my skill and equipment level. Still w/o power to the garage and it's also raining again. Anxious to get started and give it a try!

Actually, acrylic urethanes are much easier to apply then acrylic enamels, and durability will be night and day favoring the AU, which is why the industry has all but abandoned the AE for AU. The quality of the paint has less to do with ease of use, as the type.

For instance, Awlgrip and other enamels and hybrids arent really suited for color sanding, so u need to get the top coat straight out of the gun, whereas a single stage urethane, like ppg concept or dupont nason lay out like a dream, and if u screw it up some, you can correct it by wet sanding.

I believe awlcraft is a sandable topcoat.....also, make sure what you use is rated for below the water line, if youre doing the bottom too.

just an fyi

 

[Bwana Don]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Acco makes Rust stop which is rebranded Rustoleum. They will tint any color you want. Hope this helps.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

If your boat is trailered and not left in the water for longer than 3-4 days at a time then the paint does not have to be rated for below the water line. The top coat paints will work just fine for the hull too! The Acrylic Enamel Rustoleum is used for hulls here on the forum all the time on trailered boats with great results. The urethanes are GREAT paints as well as the Epoxies. You might want to take a look at the Pettit Easypoxy. I used it on my hull and it went down like a dream. With hardener in it it's like steel. Well...Maybe not quite that hard, but very durable.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?



This is the boat that is to be painted. Will be painted the same as currant, bottom will be left bare. I have also talked with Alumacraft and the currant graphics are available which I plan on adding.

Thanks for all the suggestions on different paints but I'm pretty set on using a very dark blue and none of the others offer one as dark otherwise I'd have concidered them. I think I can do this very easily with just 2 qts. Though I was told I could do it with 1 qt.

 

[zool]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thats a nice little rig, i think you would be ok with 1 qt, thinned to 20% or so...without doing the bottom or interior....you want to lay on thin coats anyway, its more durable that way...and yes, wood is correct, most paints hold up ok under a week in fresh water..but not as good as a bare bottom

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks zool, Alumacraft has been doing the Classic 165 in black for a few years now and I think it looks really good but yet I wanted to be a bit different and right now it looks like everyone's doing black but noone is doing a dark blue. At 1st I was thinking of doing a dark red but couldn't find one I like and didn't want it to end up looking like a Lund.

 

[zool]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

The darker blues like flag look great with the bare aluminum hull bottom, ive seen a few on here, i think painted with rusto, that looked factory.

 

[gm280]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks zool, Alumacraft has been doing the Classic 165 in black for a few years now and I think it looks really good but yet I wanted to be a bit different and right now it looks like everyone's doing black but noone is doing a dark blue. At 1st I was thinking of doing a dark red but couldn't find one I like and didn't want it to end up looking like a Lund.

Is the dark blue you looking for about the same color as the engine's blue? Just wondering. Would match quite well... Do post your efforts along the way with tons of pictures for everybody to see and let others see the process involved... That IS what these forums are all about anyway...

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

No that Evinrude has been replaced. It had spun the driveshaft inside the crank and all the splines were wiped out. It now has a White 60hp Johnson on it.

Yes there will be pictures to come for everyone to enjoy and critique.

 

[ricohman]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Since no one has mentioned PPE.
If you are going to be shooting paint I am going to assume you will be using hardener. And that means exposure to isocyanates. The retail sale of hardener has been banned in Canada and the U.K but you can buy it in the U.S.
At the minimum I would use a full 3M 6800 mask and a complete suit. And that's if you are painting outside.
A forced respirator is obviously the best choice of PPE and the only choice if spraying in an enclosed area.

 

[gm280]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Since no one has mentioned PPE.
If you are going to be shooting paint I am going to assume you will be using hardener. And that means exposure to isocyanates. The retail sale of hardener has been banned in Canada and the U.K but you can buy it in the U.S.
At the minimum I would use a full 3M 6800 mask and a complete suit. And that's if you are painting outside.
A forced respirator is obviously the best choice of PPE and the only choice if spraying in an enclosed area.

I too second his post as well. And a great rule of thumb is, if you can smell any type paint, thinner or hardener, your PPE equipment isn't working or the wrong type. I DO use a respirator with two fume/vapor trapping type filters and NOT a simple dust mask...and an appropriate type coverall suit. There is a huge difference... Once you start spraying any type of hardened or catalyzed paint, it is an absolute must. I mean just think if that hardened/catalyzed paint get into your lungs and hardens up there... :faint2:

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks guys for the concern, Know very well about PPE as I work almost daily with Liquid Ammonia refrigeration and have in the past worked with formaldehyde which requires a full HasMat suite along with other deadly chems..

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Thanks guys for the concern, Know very well about PPE as I work almost daily with Liquid Ammonia refrigeration and have in the past worked with formaldehyde which requires a full HasMat suite along with other deadly chems..

Pics along with posts should be simple then .. .. post up your PPE pics with You in them ( NOT a link to what you use ) and I would be satisified .

YD.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Pics along with posts should be simple then .. .. post up your PPE pics with You in them ( NOT a link to what you use ) and I would be satisified .

YD.

YD, You sound as if you do not believe or trust what I'm saying it true!

Before I came back into the food industry 5 years ago I worked for a chemical company named Lawter International which produced printing resins and ink bases. 4 of the chems we used on a daily basis required chemical hazmat suites dictated by the EPA and OSHA. 2 of those chems were also required to be stored in a seperate locked room individually. We were also required to have medical respiratory physicals done annually.

So if spray painting enamels and singal part polys is that dangerous then maybe none of us should be doing it! Also if a respirator with the proper cartages and a TYvek suite isn't enough then I guess I should quite while I'm ahead.

 

[ricohman]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

YD, You sound as if you do not believe or trust what I'm saying it true!

Before I came back into the food industry 5 years ago I worked for a chemical company named Lawter International which produced printing resins and ink bases. 4 of the chems we used on a daily basis required chemical hazmat suites dictated by the EPA and OSHA. 2 of those chems were also required to be stored in a seperate locked room individually. We were also required to have medical respiratory physicals done annually.

So if spray painting enamels and singal part polys is that dangerous then maybe none of us should be doing it! Also if a respirator with the proper cartages and a TYvek suite isn't enough then I guess I should quite while I'm ahead.

In Canada, we are not allowed to spray isocyanates outdoors, only in a proper gov't approved booth with forced air PPE. People still find ways to buy the hardener and paint outside, but you face huge fines.
A simple cartridge mask just isn't enough protection, but again, lots paint that way. I've done it many times in the past.
But this is 2 part paint with hardener, not enamel with reducer. But the stuff in the reducer isn't good for your long term health either.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

I am aware of the dangers with chems and the ones used in paints. Which is why I've limited my personal use to enamels and single part poly. With a hooded suit, repirator, goves and limited exposure times in a well ventilated garage risks should also be minimal.

Painting with 2 part paints has been discussed here on this forum many times in a good amout of detail along with the hazards of using many of the hardeners and I have read most of them over the past 5 years. So I am not ignorant of the situation.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Becoming a spray painter?

Since no one has mentioned PPE.
If you are going to be shooting paint I am going to assume you will be using hardener.

I have been rereading and digesting this whole thread and have to back up to here.

ricohman first of all you made an incorrect assumption. No where in this topic have I even hinted at using a hardener with any of these paints. As a matter of fact I have referenced 4 paints. Rustoleum, only to be used on the interior and w/o using any hardener. Then on the exterior I mentioned Brightsides or Epifanes monourethane as the choice of which I will most likely use along with a specific color of Perfection. Which I mentioned I wouldn't use or spray because I am not equipt for it. Also with these 2 topcoat paints there would be no way I would spend the money for these paints and then ruin them by adding an unknown/untested product to them. Both of these paints have reccommended thinning and flattening solvents to use with them and at $40.00-50.00 a qt. I will be using their products and reading their MSDS!

Which again brings me to the fact that if these products are that volitile and dangerous then maybe we all shouldn't be allows to use them and I should give up and sell my new paint guns.