Brake Pads

[SS MAYFLOAT]

It seems that my wifes Explorer is in need of new pads. I just put some on about 18 months ago and they are already down to the squeaker. They were semi metalic and middle of the road on price of 30 bucks. She does about 95% of her driving in town. Lots of starting and stopping. So can anyone explain to me about the differences on the different materials? I just put new rotors and ceramic pads on the rear just a few months ago. They seem to be doing fine and have noticed that there is hardly any dust on the wheels unlike what the fronts did to her rims. I found a set of pads on ebay for $28 with free shipping. Seems like a good deal as others are 30 to 35. The local parts stores wants 50 to 60 for ceramic. I haven't made up my mind yet and just would like some confirmation if I'm on the right track with going with the ceramic. Thanks a bunch........SS

 

[Failproof]

Re: Brake Pads

Good quality ceramic pads are nice. Draw backs are that the braking caracteristics change as the pad heats up, and rotors wear out with the pads. Next set of brakes will need new rotors as well. At least in my experience. For any brake pedal riders ceramic pads can warp a set of rotors real quick, and groove the heck out of them too!

 

[dockwrecker]

Re: Brake Pads

Ceramics on the rear will never wear out, and they won't do much either, they rarely get hot enough to be very effective. you put them on the rear and now you have a brake imbalance.
So what you've got is the front brakes doing all the work! Thus the rapid front pad wear. Ceramics are supposed to perform better in high heat applications. I personally dislike ceramics for daily drivers. Brake pedal effort goes way up until they warm up etc.
I'd put premium semi metallics on it front and rear.

 

[sublauxation]

Re: Brake Pads

I only put on semi metallics, usually the cheap or middle priced ones. Pads are quick and easy to change vs eating up or warping the crap rotors that most places sell.

 

[the vision]

Re: Brake Pads

I put semi metallics on my wifes explorer last year. After one trip about 2000 miles I had to change them back to ceramics and have the rotors turned because the metallics grooved them. IMO ceramics are the way to go. I haven't had any problems since and she does a lot of start stop driving.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Brake Pads

I buy the guaranteed for life ones from Autozone. I keep the receipt and replace as necessary. I don't even turn my rotors anymore unless the warp is too bad. Then, I just trade out for new rotors.

I agree with the assessment on the ceramics. Unless you are doing autocross, they are just not needed. Your front brakes do 70% of the work as it is. Why make the backs less efficient by design?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Brake Pads

Buy Raybestos Advanced Technology pads and rotors from Rockauto.com. Trust me on this one. They're reasonably priced even.

 

[YZ165]

Re: Brake Pads

You get what you pay for, but if you pay for something designed for a specific application, the results are not often satisfactory.....buy ceramics if you/the better half, drives like a "jackrabbit". Buy middle of the road if your just a now and then "jack rabbit". Buy the cheapies if you don't mind changing them out.......In my opinion, the middle of the road is the best bet. If the pads are harder than the rotors.....do I need to continue?

 

[mommicked]

Re: Brake Pads

I'm no expert, but I've seen alot of drivers ride their brakes or start and stop too quickly as I travel along in sight of them. Bad driving habits will wear out brakes faster than normal just like malfunctioning or worn parts like pad pins or stuck pistons that will not release enough, and constantly wear on the pads when the brakes are'nt being used to stop. I've used lots of cheap and higher priced semi metallics and they all last and work well for 4 yrs. or more on all the vehicles I and my wife have driven over the years. Could this be part of the problems mentioned?

 

[YZ165]

Re: Brake Pads

Could this be part of the problems mentioned?

Yes it can! More often than not, its driving habits that cause premature brake wear. Sure caliper pistons seize, caliper pins/bolts seize, but that's not normally the root cause....

Ok, wait, before I get hung by the angry mob for lack of pics, I will say that I live in the high desert, and that's not the same as living anywhere near the coast, or in the south where it's humid....that could change my opinion. Friscoboaer, you got a extra room to let for a researcher's sake? I'll help grind!

 

[rivermouse]

Re: Brake Pads

I agree with the other post have said and have learned that front rotors when overheated even for a short time can easily warp. For that reason I always buy a pad very similar to the original and try to avoid heavy braking and then running through a puddle of cool water.

 

[Bamaman1]

Re: Brake Pads

I also swear by RockAuto.com due to great prices, great selection and fast service. I recently purchased Monroe brakes for my Civic SI from them, and two axles cost me $19 after a factory rebate. That's great.

You can buy Akebono, EBC or Hawk brakes, but they're very, very costly. Many professional mechanics prefer Wagner brake pads due to a good fit, and they don't have any "comebacks." I put them on my Jag XK8 convertible, and they've performed very well. As long as you use a big name brake pad, you won't have problems with the pads.

Some people are nuts about disc dust. If you're one of them, then get ceramic brakes. I personally stick with what the factory originally had on them--most often semi-metallac's.

I do use Hawk LTS brakes on my 3/4 ton Powerstroke diesel, but it's a special purpose tow vehicle. Such a vehicle needs better brakes due to heavy trailers being pulled (over 11,000 lbs.) A 1/2 ton SUV doesn't need such pads.

I prefer to stay away from cheap, Chinese brake rotors. I try to use factory rotors as long as they've got enough metal to turn, then switch over to a middle of the pack rotor.

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Brake Pads

As for the rotors, I always buy limited lifetime/lifetime rotors. Those cheap 1 year warranty rotors should not be sold in my opinion.

I had my wife find the paper work on the rears I installed a few months ago. They are NOT ceramic afterall.

And yes, she is a left foot braker which has always aggravated me, but that is a small price to pay for having a great wife.

At least now I have better information to go into a parts store knowing what pads I do need. Seems as they are always wanting to sell the more expensive ceramic.

I will check out Rockauto on the brakes. I have bought things there in the past with excellent service from them.

Years ago when I got out of the Navy, I worked in an auto parts house. They carried Raybestos brand brakes/parts. I don't recall that we ever had any returns on their products. However, it seems quality over the past 30 years has gone down some, at least that is my experience. Years ago, I never heard of the pad coming off the backing plate, but it seems like I have heard many stories about someone experiencing the loss of a pad in the last couple of years.

Thanks for the info shipmates, I think I will look for Raybestos brand. I don't mind spending money on something that is so important for the safety of family/friends.............SS

 

[rbh]

Re: Brake Pads

Ceramic for us, not alot of stop and go traffic, just a big old switch back hill every day!

BTW, not to get off topic but try using "D" instead of "OD" in stop and go/downtown traffic, let the engine do some of the braking for you.

 

[642mx]

Re: Brake Pads

Whatever happened to going back to the Ford dealer for a quality OEM part? I bet the Ford pads will out perform anything at autozone... Sure, you'll pay more, but who wants to cut corners on brake parts?...

 

[VegasNordie]

130k on my gmc 2500hd factory brakes...had a flat a couple of weeks ago and decided to measure pad thickness and I got 6mm left...when I get to 4mm I'll replace them...guess where ill buy my next set of brakes? Gm...anyway my gf goes through brakes like they are going out of style, you know the type, the drag racer to the red light...i just bought her new pads and rotors from rockauto yesterday...

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S 4G

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Brake Pads

Whatever happened to going back to the Ford dealer for a quality OEM part? I bet the Ford pads will out perform anything at autozone... Sure, you'll pay more, but who wants to cut corners on brake parts?...

My Honda begged to differ.

 

[642mx]

Re: Brake Pads

My Honda begged to differ.

Who said "quality Honda parts"??

 

[oops!]

Re: Brake Pads

ss.

alot of times what happens is that the calipers are on an angle..

one of the prime reasons....is the slider is not not working correctly.

the calipers must slide evenly and parelell.....if they dont slide parelell.....the bottoms will wear faster than the top.
this usually happens on one wheel only.

look at your pads after the new ones are installed. are they wearing evenly? if not......the system needs work.
it is not uncommon for a bad system to go thru a set of pads every six months

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Brake Pads

ss.

alot of times what happens is that the calipers are on an angle..

one of the prime reasons....is the slider is not not working correctly.

the calipers must slide evenly and parelell.....if they dont slide parelell.....the bottoms will wear faster than the top.
this usually happens on one wheel only.

look at your pads after the new ones are installed. are they wearing evenly? if not......the system needs work.
it is not uncommon for a bad system to go thru a set of pads every six months

Thanks oops..

Its weird as yesterday I got around to changing the brake pads. I took it for a test drive befor I started work. Since my wife is the only driver, I needed to feel how the old brakes were working. I noticed that when the brakes are first applied, it would slightly pull to the right.

When removing the pads from the right side, I noticed that the area where the pads are held in by the caliper bracket was snug. The pads were about 1/4" left on the backing plate. No signs of cracking or grooving on the rotor. The rotor did not show any signs of metal to metal contact.

When removing the drivers side, the pads were cracked and worn twice as much as the right side. I had to take a small hammer and chiesel to get them out of the guides. There is a thin piece of metal that goes into the groove where the pads are to slide in and out when the brakes are applied. I pulled the metal out only to reveal flakey rust.

I pulled both caliper brackets off and then bead blasted them in my cabinet. Painted them, and picked up new hardware. The guide pins that holds the caliper to its bracket were in great working order. The rubber grommets were in good condition and had retained the grease as it was designed to do.

Upon installing the new (Raybestos brand/ semi metalic) I noticed the pads still fit too snug. They would hardly move freely in the slides of the brackt, even with lube. I pulled the pads back out to take a close look at the pads.

At the ends of the pads that fit into the slides of the caliper bracket, I noticed that the metal was not a a smoothe surface. There was a ridge that was caused when the pads backing place was punched on the press. I used a file and trimmed down the ridge caused by the punching process. After that was done, the pads fit perfectly. Re-assembled every thing and wow. No more pulling and a nice smooth braking action.

On the way back from the test drive, I hit the brakes hard. When I did that, the pedal drifted to the floor. Put it back in the shop. Looked for a fluid leak. Nothing in the front end, but when I looked towards the rear, I had fluid leaking under the differential. Yup, brake line rusted and leaking. Put a new line on, bled the air out and everything is fine now.

I do know now that I will check new pads for that ridge that is made during the punching process. Its not much metal (about 1/64th) but both ends would be a 32nd of an inch which can make a difference in the tolerances.

Mark one off the Honey Do List .........Thanks again.......SS