Cold starting at 2C - brrr

Fed

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She cranked fine but kept spitting the bendix down
Although it may seem counter intuitive try starting it with no fast idle, just rely on lots of key pushing to keep it going until you can bring up the fast idle a little without it conking out.
 

jakedaawg

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Squeeze the bulb then push in the key, repeat this a couple of times and it's no different than taking the hood off, only much easier.

I have to disagree here, no offense intended. There is a very common misconception present on this forum.

Once the bulb has been squeezed til firm many belive the line is now under pressure. It is not, it is just full of fuel, no pressure unless you are still actively squeezing the bulb. Pressing in on the key opens only a valve and with out pressure nothing goes through.
 

jakedaawg

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Although it may seem counter intuitive try starting it with no fast idle, just rely on lots of key pushing to keep it going until you can bring up the fast idle a little without it conking out.

This is your solution.
 

interalian

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I have to disagree here, no offense intended. There is a very common misconception present on this forum.

Once the bulb has been squeezed til firm many belive the line is now under pressure. It is not, it is just full of fuel, no pressure unless you are still actively squeezing the bulb. Pressing in on the key opens only a valve and with out pressure nothing goes through.

This is my experience as well.

I do agree that by having the key ON (not cranking) and pressed in, and an assistant squeezing the bulb you would achieve the effect of injecting additional fuel without the pulse pump needing to be working by cranking the motor, or moving the primer valve to manual. This would give more fuel than could be added otherwise.
 

interalian

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Although it may seem counter intuitive try starting it with no fast idle, just rely on lots of key pushing to keep it going until you can bring up the fast idle a little without it conking out.

Since the idle lever only advances the timing, I can't see this working. But worth trying I guess. Once it started, there's no way it would have run without adding timing. I had the primer pushed in and idle maxxed and it still barely ran initially.
 

racerone

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Wrong.--------The timer base should rotate enuff to advance the timing and open throttle slightly.-------If that does not happen it is up to you to sort this out.---------Yes the cables do wear out internally.--------Yes there may be an adjustment on the control box.
 

interalian

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Well, now the boat is off the water it's time to winterize and check. I'll see if it does pick up some throttle at max fast idle too. Control cables are original. Thanks again sensei.
 

Fed

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Well this is strange, the posts in this thread seem to be out of sequence as if a mod had to clean up something and left collateral damage.

Anyone else getting it?

And the difference is...
cold-starting-at-2c-brrr/page4?view=stream
Vs
cold-starting-at-2c-brrr/page4

A crazy forum change?
 
Last edited:

interalian

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No idea. Has anybody been naughty?

Checked the idle advance, and of course it cracks the throttle a bit as well as advancing timing. The cam moves to the 'start' notch which is a skoshe past the pickup point for L&S. Seems there's nothing wrong with the cables or anything, just BRRRR!
 

bob johnson

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winter is when I use my boat the most..its a duck hunting boat. I have launched several times when it was below -9 degrees.....the salt water bays usually are slushing over...because the water is below freezing.....the trick is having a strong battery and making sure the fuel is primed well......each motor is different...but the 60 degree loops like I run you need to pressurize the primer ball good and then push in the primer under the key and hold for MORE than 5 seconds... sometimes you use enough fuel that you need to squeeze the primer ball AGAIN!!.... then crank over the engine while pushing the primer ......
 

interalian

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Battery is good, cranking was same speed as on warm or hot days, so she was spinning over nice and fast. With all the cranking though, I was starting to get concerned about overtaxing the starter motor.

The answer seems to be 'more fuel', and I will remember that for next winter. No salt within 1000km of here, so the boat will be laid up until May '17.
 

Fed

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Here's a test interalian, turn the key to ON, prime it until it's full, push & hold the key IN with a STICK and then give the primer ball one extra slow full squeeze.
You might even start a new trend in the lake on cold mornings.:lol:
 

interalian

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Here's a test interalian, turn the key to ON, prime it until it's full, push & hold the key IN with a STICK and then give the primer ball one extra slow full squeeze.
You might even start a new trend in the lake on cold mornings.:lol:

You may be on to something there! Or put a second primer switch on the front of the motor pan, parallel wired to the key primer switch. Press the new switch and hold, give the bulb a couple of squeezes and then go crank.
 
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