Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

[Klink]

Do I need to hook up water when I do the Joe Reeves timing method, or is it so quick it is not necessary? (1990 Johnson 115)

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

Reread the instructions... The spark plugs are removed, the engine is not running!

 

[Klink]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

I just thought the water pump impeller might need the lubrication of water.

For everyone that uses your expert advice without ever posting here, let me say many thanks for all of your contributions. Are you also Restrorob at Lawnsite.com? He was the Joe Reeves of lawn mowing equipment at that forum when I frequented it a few years ago, and lives in your area.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

That is a thought worth mentioning.... impeller lubrication. I may insert that into the instructions. See below. Good for you.

Klink.... Think I knew a colonel by that name somewhere. Another

And no, I'm not the "Restrorob" you speak of... I keep the same username on the various forums.

(Timing At Cranking Speed 4?)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE-1: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.

NOTE-2: A fellow member (Klink) from one of the various marine forums suggested having water supplied to the water pump (flushette or barrel) simply to provide lubrication to impeller. A worthwhile suggestion I thought, and entered here as an option.

The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"without" have the engine running as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4? less than what the engine calls for.

It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem but it could happen.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28?, set the timing at 24?. The reasoning for the 4? difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4?.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4? which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

 

[Klink]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

I ran into a problem, when I wired the throttle at full, the timer base under the flywheel still has some room to go till it hits the rubber stop. I therefore pushed the timer base till hit the stop. The test gave me 28 degrees, my engine a 1990 115 Johnson calls for 28 degrees, therefore it should be set to 24. The problem is that if I let go of the wire holding the timer base, it will fall back to the point where the throttle lever pushes it, not to the rubber stop.

Therefore, I set the timing at 24, at the point where the throttle pushes the timer base, and not to the point that I can pull it by hand.

Am I doing it right?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

Adjust the stop so that it pushes against it at 24

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

Post pictures of your setup if possible.
Check the timing base moves freely, sometimes wires on the opposite side of the motor are tangled up and get in the way of allowing the base to move

 

[rockfinder2]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

Hello Joe, does this method also work with the points magneto?

 

[Klink]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

I ran into a problem, when I wired the throttle at full, the timer base under the flywheel still has some room to go till it hits the rubber stop. I therefore pushed the timer base till hit the stop. The test gave me 28 degrees, my engine a 1990 115 Johnson calls for 28 degrees, therefore it should be set to 24. The problem is that if I let go of the wire holding the timer base, it will fall back to the point where the throttle lever pushes it, not to the rubber stop.

Therefore, I set the timing at 24, at the point where the throttle pushes the timer base, and not to the point that I can pull it by hand.

Am I doing it right?

Went back and checked it further. Like a said "I set the timing at 24, at the point where the throttle pushes the timer base, and not to the point that I can further pull the timer base by hand".

If I pull the timer base further by hand, I can go about 1/4" before it tops out, hitting one of the columns of the crankcase head and bearing assembly. There is no timer base rubber stop on my 1990 Johnson 115. I have two of them and neither one has a rubber stop. The timer base just reaches the end of it's travel inside the crankcase head and bearing assembly, hitting the starboard front column of the crankcase head.

I tested it again, and it was at 24 degrees at the maximum throttle setting, and when I moved the timing base by hand the 1/4" to hit it's limit, it registered about 27 degrees.

 

[Klink]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

I saw that the only part that can move the spark control lever is the throttle lever. I wanted the cam follower roller to slide inside the throttle lever raceway a tad further to make the spark advance reach its limit at full throttle. I adjusted the throttle stop screw till the spark control lever had moved the timer base to its limit. Then when I opened the throttle all the way, the timer base reached its limit without my having to pull it further by hand.

I went back and did the timing again and set it at 24 degrees. Job completed. Will try out in the water tomorrow.

 

[Klink]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

re: having water supplied to the water pump (flushette or barrel) simply to provide lubrication to impeller.

I did it dry, as I don't have a barrel (I'm going to get for future work) which is the way to go, as a flushete would make a mess on the dirt floor of my barn and I'd have to be turning it off and on.

If I did it again, I'd have the barrel full of water to lubricate the impeller.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

If I did it again, I'd have the barrel full of water to lubricate the impeller.

Understood. Many members have followed my instructions (dry impeller) and encountered no problems, and I myself have also went that route without problems... so I will leave it as an option.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Does Joe Reeves Timing method need engine cooling water?

Hello Joe, does this method also work with the points magneto?

No need to retard the setting by 4 degrees on a old magneto setup. However, it's easier to simply set the points as follows for a straight magneto.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP imbossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.