Electric Brake Overhaul???

[Kosmofreeze]

It seems that my electric brakes on my tandem axel steel trailer are loosing their "grip". I test them by flicking the brake controller to MAX BLAST when pulling out of the driveway and easily notice the extra drag of the trailer but their effectiveness seems to be waning over the years. My boat/trailer combination is probably close to 10K lbs so I'd like to know the trailer brakes are working as designed - my truck is an F350. What is a good test to determine if electric trailer brakes are up to snuff?

 

[jlh3rd]

maybe check the shoes?

 

[Lou C]

Most of these have a manual adjustment which has to be done regularly. I’d try that first with the star wheel thru the backing plate…..

 

[cyclops222]

Anything that is easier ?

 

[Lou C]

It is what it is, manual adjust drum brakes have to be adjusted regularly. Like my 1960s VWs and other old cars. Not hard, just spin the wheel, fwd, then tighten the star wheel till it locks, back off 10 or so clicks...spin it again, you should hear a bit of scraping of the shoe inside but no drag.
I put such few miles on my trailer I only have to do it once every 5 years or so. They do make self adjusting drum brakes but the are more complex. Only other option is electric over hydraulic disc brakes, a better system but also more complex. Electric + hydraulics.

 

[ESGWheel]

I have electric brakes on my 33’ travel trailer that I maintain so I will try to help.

First off, the idea of moving your cab controller over to the max to see if the trailer weels lock up is a good idea and one that I do every single time I head out.
Second off, these are not your typical brakes and work on magnetism. In case you are not familiar, here is a great short vid that explains it (link).
Assuming the truck, controller and the connection to the trailer is 100% good there are 3 elements that need attention and maintenance.

1. The electrical wiring itself. There is a lot of current flowing thru it and any degradation of a connection (ex., corrosion) will lead to brakes not performing as they should. Careful attention to all the splices is warranted as well as the wiring runs themselves > they can be held in place by clips that over time chaff the wire and cause a short, etc.
2. The magnet / hub combination. Typically, the magnet will wear out before issues with the hub. But if the hub is heavily grooved / rusty the brakes will be less effective.
3. Brake shoes. These too wear out just like on a car based on milage. As they wear there is NOT an auto-adjust like on car drum brakes and thus must be maintained. Here is a good vid showing how to (link). Being able to adjust the brakes assumes all is good inside the drum area, i.e. its not all rusted.

Which leads to my strong suggestion since effective braking on a 10k boat/trailer combo is critical to both you and others around you on the road:

• Pull each drum assembly off the trailer and do a very thorough inspection, looking the points above and more. I even go so far as to use a DC induction meter and measure the currents to each of the mags to ensure its balanced.

Good luck and ask questions as needed.

Edit: thanks for posting your query as I did not know there are boat trailers out there with electric brakes (not the electrical over hyd, I get those, but pure electric like in the video). This is a surprise to me as the combination of electricity and water in this manner do not compute in my mind. But always willing to learn, I now know.

 

[Lou C]

That's why I like surge brakes, yes they are not controllable like electrics but as long as your master cyl works, your brake cyls or caliper pistons aren't seized, and there are no leaks (obvious) your brakes work. Electric is more points of possible failure.

 

[ESGWheel]

That's why I like surge brakes.... Electric is more points of possible failure.

I completely agree!