Glastron V196 restoration

[Baylinerchuck]

I think you can use the 1700, you just have to use CSM first, and between the layers of 1700.

 

[Dennischaves]

No Title

I got the hull off the trailer this weekend
I have it sitting level so i dont have any problems when i start tabbing

 

[Dennischaves]

The old stringers were 3/4" pine
Should I replace them with pine or go plywood?
Also i cant find wood long enough for the center stringer whats the correct way to join 2 pieces of wood together to make long stringer....some sort of scarf joint?

 

[Corjen1]

I used exterior grade plywood of my GT. Yep, you will need join 2 lengths of ply. I used a lap joint.

 

[Dennischaves]

No Title

Got the 2 outer stringers cut out and grinded also the transom came out
I wasn't too impressed with the tabbing from glastron
Do i have to grind off all of the old stringer tabbing?
I grinded it all smooth but there some original tabbing left on there

 

[Baylinerchuck]

The more glass you leave, the less you have to put back. Get rid of anything that is loose, looks resin starved, or like it got wet. Grind down to fresh glass and go.

 

[Dennischaves]

What did glastron originally use to bond the plywood transom to the hull?
I grinded down the area where the new plywood transom will go but there some on the original ..thickened fiberglass? Still on there and it seems to be bonded very well to the hull.
Or do i have to take it all the way down to the woven roven?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Most likely polyester resin. Just grind down to fresh glass. The new PB will fill any small variations in the surface. Overall, however, it needs to be flat.

 

[Dennischaves]

Im going to be bonding the transom with 3m panel bonding adhesive ....3m rep gave me samples and he highly recommends it for what im doing

 

[Baylinerchuck]

To bond the plywood layers together, or to bond the plywood to the fiberglass hull? Hopefully not the fiberglass. I would not use anything but the thickened resin that you're doing the tabbing with.

 

[Dennischaves]

Yes im using it to bond the plywood to the hull Its a 2 part epoxy very very strong stuff

 

[Dennischaves]

Im a little confused now
Would there be a problem using epoxy to bond the new plywood transom to the hull?
Then i plan on doing the tabbing etc with polyester
I just liked the idea of the bonding strength of epoxy...any thoughts anyone
Also how should i seal the wood for the bolt holes for the outboard ....coat the inside of the holes with resin, a piece of pvc with the same inside diameter as the bolts?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Sorry didn't realize it was epoxy. It sounds like some sort of construction adhesive. Never mind me.....I'll just fade off into the shadow.......epoxy is really good. I would just coat the inside of the holes with epoxy. Or you can drill the holes a little larger, fill totally with thickened epoxy, then drill out to proper size. This will ensure the wood is never exposed and does in essence what you were thinking with the PVC. Just much better.

 

[Woodonglass]

Im a little confused now
Would there be a problem using epoxy to bond the new plywood transom to the hull?
Then i plan on doing the tabbing etc with polyester
I just liked the idea of the bonding strength of epoxy...any thoughts anyone
Also how should i seal the wood for the bolt holes for the outboard ....coat the inside of the holes with resin, a piece of pvc with the same inside diameter as the bolts?

There's no need to use epoxy to glue the transom to the hull. Thickened Poly will do a great job. Thousands of restoration prove that fact. Remember...Epoxy sticks to anything Poly will NOT stick to Epoxy. I'd Highly Recommend that you choose one resin and stick with it throughout the restoration. Poly would be my choice.

 

[Dennischaves]

No Title

I was planing on glueing the new transom in today after i finished grinding the hull
But there were a few hairline cracks in the hull that didint look to healthy so to get to clean fiberglass i had to go through the hull
Whats the best way to fix these
I was thinking a filet then 2 layers of 1708 and top it off with csm?

 

[kcassells]

Dats not be hairline crack, dats be bald. Tape it of on the outside. Follow the contours. Pb it out. Then do 3 glass overlays 1st being 3" over the area, next two 3" larger then the next. Good catch. Chimers chime in....

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Ouch, got a little deep on the grinding. +1 on kcassells post.

 

[Dennischaves]

I wanted to grind all the bad fiberglass away I dont want to do this again ...it started as a hairline crack that was discolored
So 3 layers of 1708?

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO 2 layers of 1708 is plenty. Use Packing tape and tape over the repair on the OUTSIDE of the boat. On the inside fill the breach with PB. and as soon as your done with the pb and while its still wet roll on some resin and then a 1708 piece 3" wider and longer than the crack. Soon as it's down lay another thats 3" larger than the previous layer. After a couple of hours pull the tape and do some sanding on the outside. When you're ready to finish the outside let us know and we'll walk you thru that process.

 

[Dennischaves]

No Title

Well i repaired the stress crack/grind through
Got another question when i was laying the glass down the resin was kicking kinda fast i mixed it at 1% or 16oz resin to 5cc of. Mek
How much less mek is safe to add will .5% work?