HELP? wiring ignition switch

[sybarite]

I have a 1988 85hp Force/Chrysler. I replaced the ignition switch with a new Marpac Evinrude/Johnson ignition with push to choke. When I purchased the motor the old ignition had no key and I got the ignition switch from a friend. The problem is that it will not start from the ignition switch. I have rewired the ignition switch so many times that I can not remember where I started the re-wire. Wiring at the terminal strip is as follows: yellow-start; purple-tach; white-magneto; green-choke; orange-heat; red-battery; blue-magneto (jumped to ground); black-ground; from top to bottom. The new ignition switch has 6 terminals: B-battery; C-choke; I-ignition; M-magneto; S-start; M-ground. Position connections should be: Off (M-M); Run (B-I-A); Start (B-I-S). P.S. the circuit breaker on the terminal strip is bad (no movement on an ohm test), I bypassed the circuit breaker. Thanks SY

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

B= Red Wire<br />M= not used<br />I= Blue wire<br />M= White Wire<br />S= Yellow wire<br />C= Green Wire<br />White = Tach circuit<br />Red = Battery Circuit<br />Blue = ignition circuit<br />Orange= overheat circuit<br />Green = Choke circuit<br />Yellow= Starting Circuit<br />Purple = Charge indicator circuit<br />Black= Ground return circuit<br />This info is for a chrysler switch with a chrysler wiring harness. Hope it helps

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Thanks Eurolava; I hooked up the ignition switch as follows: B-Red wire; M-Not used; I-Blue wire; M-White wire; S-Yellow wire; C-Green wire; (still nothing). Here is the voltage at the switch with this wiring: Off position-B-12v; M-2v; C-0v; S-0v; I-1v (slowly decreases to 0v); M-not used. On position-B-12v; M-0v; C-0v; S-0v; I-12v; M-not used. Start position-B-12v; W-2v; C-0v (12v when pushed in); S-12v; I-12v; M-not used (v-indicates DC volts). I hope this helps, Thanks SY

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Do you hear the solonoid engaging when you turn to start( should hear at least a click)? IF solonoid is not engaging then starter will not work. Also when you push key in does the choke close?<br /><br />Did you remove any of the wires or change them around on the terminal block on the motor?

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

No, the solenoid does not click when the ignition switch is turned to start. Yes, the choke does click when the key is pushed in. No, the terminal block is wired as in my first post, according to the wiring chart next to the terminal strip. SY

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

My manual only goes to 1984 and I dont have an electrical diagram for your motor. Have you tried bypassing the solonid to start it? Put a volt meter across the battery when trying to start it. Does the battery meter drop down real low like around 10 vdc? Sounds like you have the right voltages going to the right places. Could be solonoid is bad.<br /><br />My manual shows white wire is for tach and blue wire is for ignition. Your blue is grounded and your purple is for tach my manual is worthless for your motor. You are going to need a manual with the electrical for your motor.

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Yes, I can turn the motor over by using a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals. No, the voltage does not drop when I turn the ignition switch over to start. SY

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

When you are trying to start the motor do you have it in neutral? If not the neutral interlock switch will not let the starter relay engage. When you have the switch in the start position the yellow wire has 12 volts but what do you read on the opposite side of the interlock switch. If it is zero your interlock switch is locking out the voltage going to the starter

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Yes, the motor is in neutral. Prop turns freely. WHERE is the neutral interlock switch located? Is it located on the motor on the portside just above the control cables, with a yellow wire with a black stripe? If so, I disconnected the yellow wire with the black stripe from the starter solenoid and tried to start it that way (nothing). By the control box is a switch that is not hooked up. Also there is a switch by the ignition switch that has a wristband that is also not hooked up.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

the neutral interlock switch is the one with a yellow and black stripe wire. If you have an ohm meter there should be a short if the selector is in neutral. IF it is in forward or reverse it should be open. So if this switch is not closed or shorted your motor will not start.<br /><br />The other devise you mentioned is I believe a safety strap you wear. I believe it is called a landyard switch. It should be plugged in to start the boat. It is designed to kill the motor if you fall in the lake while driving the boat.

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

On the top of the interlock switch is 2 screws that has 2 wires connected to them (yellow w/ black stripe) 1-wire to starter solenoid and 1-wire to start on the terminal strip(I believe). Ohm test between the 2 yellow w/ black stripe wires (nothing-does not move). Ohm test on the 2 post(s)(no wires) on the side of the interlock switch (moves to zero).

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Your motor is a lot newer then mine so the switch may have changed. On mine there are two wires on either side. In the middle of the switch there is a linkage from the shift box that rocks and will push the switch closed when the shifer is in neutral. Yours must be similar to this. Find this linkage and see if it is actually pressing the switch closed when in neutral. This has to be zero ohms or a short in order to send the electric signal to your solonoid to start the motor. My guess is the other posts you tested on the switch that were short are set opposite of the ones you are currently hooked up to. This is common in switches. One set is normally closed and the other set is normally open. You need to be using the normally open which means that when the switch is pressed the switch will close or be a short.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

To eliminate the neutral interlock switch you can short out the two wires going to it. If motor will turn over your problem will be that switch. If motor starts the interlock switch is not being engaged or the switch is broken.

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

I took the neutral interlock switch off. Cleaned the terminals the yellow/black stripe wires were connected to. I think the linkage was not making a good enough contact with the button on the bottom of the interlock switch. Fixed that by bending up the linkage contact. Re-installed the interlock switch. Now with the ignition switch in the on position, I have 12vdc on both yellow/black stripe wires now. Still will not start by the ignition switch. Could the problem be in the starter solenoid? Thanks Sy

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Dang. Was hoping it was the interlock switch.<br /><br />When you say on position do you mean start position or the on position. On position is where the key snaps back to after starting. Start position is when you have to hold the key as far right as it will go. You should have no voltage on run position. Only in start position on yellow wire.<br /><br /> On the solenoid you have two large wires and a small yellow wire. Disconnect both of the big wires. These should be red (MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED WHILE DOING THIS). Take your meter and put it on the volts dc range to read 12 volts and reconnect battery. Put one lead on the yellow wire connected to the solenoid and the other connected to ground or the metal chasis and turn key to start. You should read 12 volts at the solenoid. When you release the key the voltage should drop to zero. If yes set meter to read ohms and place a lead on each of the terminals on the solenoid that you removed the wires from. (Both of the big wires). When you turn key to start position you should read a short or close to zero ohms. If you are reading an open or high ohms the contacts are either real corroded or the soleniod is shot.<br /><br />Be careful when doing this test. Maybe take black tape and tape the leads you disconnected from the starter so you dont accidently ground the lead and short out the battery.<br /><br />If you take the two wires you disconnected from the solenoid and touch them together the motor should crank. You may have corrosion on the contacts of these wires or on solenoid and you are not getting enough contact surface to start motor. Clean all the contacts with a wire brush or use a baking soda water mix to clean them with. If you get this to start you will want to get some anti corrosion gel to put on these contacts so they wont corrode.<br /><br />Hope this works because I am running out of Ideas. Hope someone else chimes in soon that might think of something I am missing.

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

The ignition switch was in the ON position not the start position. SY

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Alright disconnected the battery wire and the other large red wire to starter. Taped off the battery wire to solenoid (so it would not ground out). Reconnected the wires to the battery. Did a vdc test on the yellow starter solenoid and ground, while someone else turned the ignition key to start (nothing). Did an ohm test between the large terminals on starter solenoid while ignition was turned to start (nothing). I will buy a new starter solenoid and try that. Thanks Eurolarva for helping, SY

 

[eurolarva]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Dont buy a solenoid just yet. When you turn key to start positon you should have 12 volts going to the yellow wire on solenoid. You mentioned earlier you had 13 volts on yellow wire when switch was in on position. This tells me you have a wire reversed. When switch is in on position are you reading 12 volts on yellow wire on solenoid? The only way you are going to get solenoid te energize is to have 12 volts going to that yellow wire.

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Eurolarva, I had bought a new starter solenoid for my Ford van approx. 2 weeks ago (4-post solenoid). Well the problem with the van was the battery not the starter solenoid. So, I just took off the new starter solenoid and put the old starter solenoid back on the van and used the new starter solenoid on the boat motor. This is what I have now. Yellow wire on starter solenoid when ignition is in the start position is now 12vdc. An ohm test between the large terminals on starter solenoid (with battery cable disconnected) is, moves to 0 ohms. By the way it still will not start by the ignition. Hope this helps. I think that I may have the wires to the ignition in the wrong position(s). SY

 

[sybarite]

Re: HELP? wiring ignition switch

Here is the voltage at the ignition switch: Off position-red(B)-12vdc, white(M)-0, yellow(S)-0, blue(I)-0, black (not used)-0; Run (on)- red(B)-12vdc, white(M)-0, yellow(S)-0, blue(I)-12vdc, black (not used)-12vdc; Start- red(B)-12vdc, white(M)-0, yellow(S)-12vdc, blue(I)-12vdc, black (not used)-12vdc. Green-choke has 12vdc when pushed in. The other (M) terminal not used.