I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

[cigarxtc]

Hello All,<br /> Cool site! I just joined tonight. I recently bought a 1957 Arkansas Traveler 15ft boat with trailer and I also received a 1954 Johnson Seahorse 25hp motor, and two Elgin 2hp motors. Everything looks to be in sound shape mechanically. I'm resurfacing/restoring the trailer and boat. <br /><br />So yesterday I tried to fire up the Johnson motor with my car battery, but the starter only spun and did not engage the gear. The gear would not spin up to the flywheel. Is that an easy fix? Was my tiny 12vlt car battery not enough to start this motor? I tried to pull start her, but I think I need to be built like Arnold Schwarzeneger to get a full pull on it. It's got great compression!<br /><br />Here's the specs on it:<br />Specs on the Johnson are<br />25 HP<br />Original price: $498.00<br />Model year: 1954<br />Bore: 2 7/8 in<br />Stroke: 2 3/4 in<br />CID: 35.70<br />Spark plug: Champion J6-J<br />Gas tank capacity: 6 gal<br />RPM: 4000<br />Weight: 111 lbs<br />with Electric Start. <br />with Forward, Reverse, neutral.<br /><br />Any advice on this motor or the boat would be greatly appreciated!!! )

 

[bubbakat]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

There is a rubber hub in the starter drive gear that acts as a clutch when the starter is engaged. Any type of lube getting into the hub between the rubber and metal cup will cause the bendix gear to slip and turn slower than the starter shaft. Haven't really seen the rubber clutch just wear out but it's possible. Make sure the rubber clutch and cup are dry. If any lube is applied, just a few drops of WD-40 to the starter shaft will do or an application of bendix grease used sparingly.

 

[cigarxtc]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Okay, I've got the trailer just about restored. Pretty cool old Tee Nee trailer with the tear drop fat fenders. Now I'm working on the boat and motor. The next parts I need for the motor are the spark plug wires. Does anybody know the part numbers? Or can I just buy replacement plug wire by the foot? I've already got the coils. Just need the two plug wires and boots.

 

[DJ]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

cigarxtc,<br /><br />Automotive "supression" type wires may cause you problems.<br /><br />You either need the OEM wires, which are still available at John/Rude dealers or a solid wire core plug wire.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

You need to use a metal core sparkplug wire, not automotive 'supressor' wire. You can get it by the foot from any small engine repair shop, as well as some outboard shops. Make sure it's the same outside diameter or it won't fit in the coils. Get the boots from the same place.<br /><br />Since these wires are not carbon core, they don't wear out like automotive ones. There's plenty of original ones from the 50's still in service. But if they're cracked or 'ripe' or you just want to replace them anyway, go ahead!<br /><br />Hope this helps!<br /><br />EDIT: You beat me to it djohns!

 

[cigarxtc]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Thanks ya'll. I'm still searching for a plug wire supplier.<br /><br />Now I have another question. I was trying to remove the lower unit last night but it does not come down from the main assembly more than about 1/2 inch. I can see the shift selector arm and drive shaft, but I can not tell what is holding it in place. I loosened the lower screw for the shift selector arm, but that did not help. It does not matter if it's in Forward, Reverse, or Neutral. She just won't budge. I tried a search on this forum, but did not find results. The manual is not very detailed. Can anybody shed some light on this?

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

I believe you have to take the screw all the way out for it to drop the lower unit. Try NAPA for the wires..

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

There is a plate mid-way up the exhaust housing on the right side held with two screws, the shift disconnect is under that. You may have problems finding a water pump for that year engine.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

RJohnson, The LU is nearly identical to the 28hp ones. In fact the engine is nearly identical. So your bang-on. Looks like RB is talking about the screw you idenify.<br />The waterpump is also the same, so you can get it from NAPA (Sierra aftermaket parts) 18-3006 (impeller only) or your Johnson/Evinrude dealer should be able to get it - OEM PN 379774 (Buy it online here ). The OEM one has a new housing, wear plate, etc.

 

[cigarxtc]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Thanks Rick, and all. You were right on. That screw had to come all the way out, then she dropped like a brick. Good thing I was awake enough to catch her before she hit the garage floor. I found the plug wires by the foot at a local Johnson marine dealer. Not bad for $1/foot. I drained the lower unit expecting some old oil sludge to come out, but only water came pouring out. I think it's water from when I degreased the engine last weekend. So I'll be needing a l/u seal kit and the bearings. I'm not sure if I have the correct part number for the seal kit, and I can not find the part numbers for the bearings. In the Sierra catalog I found pn18-2686(AP#1729) Gear Housing Seal Kit. But it is listed for the 1955-1959 25hp OMC units. Will it fit my 1954 25hp Johnson? If not what is that part number? And what is the part numbers for the l/u bearings?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Considering Johnrude made their last Big-Twin 25hp in 1955, the Sierra list is a little suspect. In any case, I am pretty sure most of the seals in the kit will fit your motor.<br /><br />Are you sure you need the bearings? If the old ones are rusted up or excessively worn, they should be alright. That you drained some water out may indicate a problem, but only if the bearings have become rusty or if it was run with excessive amounts of water inside.<br /><br />Solid old motors - enjoy!<br /><br />- Scott

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

If you do need new bearings, go to a local bearing house. I suspect our lower units are very similair if not identical (I've got a '63 28hp). If that's the case, the reverse bearing is a cheapo standard metric ball bearing, and the forward and driveshaft bearings are Timken tapered roller bearings, and are still made by Timken. I paid about $40 (CND) up here for a forward bearing (cone and race together, they're sold separate), you'd probably pay half that.<br /><br />

If the old ones are rusted up or excessively worn, they should be alright.

Oh, never mind - I guess the rusted ones are better. <br />I'll go swap my new ones out now.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Hmmm. That should have read "...areN'T rusted..." I'm glad I only have to proof read other people's stuff for a living... If I had to read my own I'd be out of a job...<br /> - Scott

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

There are no roller, or ball bearings in your gearcase. It's all bushings on that year engine.

 

[alcan]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

I respectfuly disagree with R.Johnson. There are three bearings used in your L/U. Two roller bearings and one ball bearing. The original part#s are 373761 forward propshaft bearing (tapered roller). 20-52 rear propshaft bearing (ball) (strange # ? ). 375829 pinion bearing (roller). All model RD motors manufactured prior to serial #1086797 are not equipped with bushing part#303690. Replacement of part#375861 gear and pinion bearing assembly will include new bushing part# 303690.As the others have stated these are standard bearing available at your local bearing house. The bad news is the OMC parts #s don't work for the local bearing guys. You will have to get the numbers off the actual bearing, or take them with you, so they can match them. Most of the seals for this project can be had via the bearing house as well. They are C.R brand (Chicago rawhide). You will need one special tool, a punch, to replace the shift shaft seal. This will involve removing the bushing and installing an o-ring. The shift rod is one of the most common areas to have leaks on these units. I will be happy to supply you with any part#s you may need for your RD. As Chinewalker suggests unless your bearing are really toasted just clean them up and run them.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

0-52 rear propshaft bearing (ball) (strange # ? )

That reminds me of my (28hp) gearcase. 20mm id (shaft) and 52mm od (race) ball bearing (rear). Cheaper than dirt. <br />I belive it's 10mm thick too if memory serves me right. <br />The roller bearings I had had timken part numbers clearly etched into them. I simply took those numbers to a bearing house, and they were able to supply exact matches. My new bearings had exactly the same part numbers.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

alcan is right about the bearings, Jeez! my memerory sure took a slip on that one.

 

[cigarxtc]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Thanks All! Great news~the bearings, races, and bearing cages showed very very minimal wear and are excellent condition! Woopee! So now I need to find the lower unit oil seals and she'll be ready to fill with oil. One odd question; do the bearing need to be lubed with paste grease? Or do I just fill the cavity with the marine gear lube? Is that sufficient lubrication for the bearings? And the manual says that the Lower Unit uses "OMC Type C" gear lube. What is that equivelant to in todays oils? Preferably synthetic.

 

[cigarxtc]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

Update; got the seals locally. Wasn't too hard to replace them. The marine dealer sold me a couple tubes of gear lube that says for use in 1972 and up Johnson non-electric shift lower units. Is that safe to use in my particular lower unit? Also, should these bearings be greased before I put everything back together, or does the liquid gear lube sufficiently protect the bearings?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: I'm new to the 1954 Johnson Seahorse and am learning......

That's the right LU oil (Hi Vis). Actually, you can even get the stuff at wal-mart, since it's the same lube used by all manual shift lower units, by all other manufacturers. Just look for API GL-5 rated 90W L/U oil. Actually, the stuff for electric shifts ("Premium Blend", new name for "Type C") can be used too, it's just not required.<br />EDIT: I just ran into a post where Joe Reeves recomends against using Premium Blend in manual shifts. Cross another line out of my manual!<br /> There are synthetic L/U oils available for your L/U. <br /><br />The oil bath is plenty sufficient for startup lubrication. So no grease in there! I do like to put some anti-corrosion waterproof grease on the outside side of the shift shaft though.<br /><br />Hope this helps!