Is a roller trailer okay?

[Chopp]

Hi, I have a 1993 Sea Ray 170 Bowrider. The trailer is bunk style, and when I load it I can’t crank it all the way up, so I when I pull the boat out of the water, I need to move it up 4 inches which is achieved with help pushing the back of the boat while cranking, or hitting the brakes while driving to scoot it up (which isn’t smart) so my question is, is a roller trailer safe for a fiber glass boat? I believe awhile ago I read somewhere that it can stress the fiberglass. What’s your thoughts?

 

[achris]

As long as you have a boat with a proper keel, and enough keel rollers to properly support he boat, it's plenty better than a 'skid' trailer. Initially skid trailers were designed for tin boats, just someone found that building skid trailers was cheaper, and that's why you see glass boats on them. If the boat's been built without a proper keel :facepalm: (another money saving thing) then get a multi-roller trailer... They usually have enough rollers along the sides to properly support the hull.

If you get a keel roller trailer, adjust the side rollers so there is very little weight on the side rollers. All the weight needs to be taken by the keel rollers.

When I bought my last trailer, I specified them to double the number of keel rollers (from 5 to 10). It reduced the load on each roller from 400kg to 200kg. I've never had a problem getting the boat off or on that trailer. If I stand at the side of the boat, I can rock it side to side and have it lift slightly off each side roller set in turn. All the weight on the keel rollers, the sides only there to stop it falling over. Same goes for the transom rollers, there to guide during loading and launching, not to be weight-bearing.

Chris.....

 

[Chopp]

Would the keel would essentially be the center “line” of the hull? Because it’s fairly... rounded so I would have to do a multi-roller style. Do you have to buy a new trailer? Or can I rip the slides out, and install rollers? And how many rollers is enough?

 

[Scott Danforth]

start by backing your existing trailer in the water another foot there should be about 2" of your fenders visible above the water.

if I can crank up 4200# and 26 feet of boat on a bunk trailer up to the winch post, you should be able to crank up the 2000-2200# and 18 feet of boat you have right up to the winch post.

 

[Chris1956]

Firstly, roller trailers are much better than bunk style trailers. They support boat hulls just fine and allow launching and retrieving to be much easier, due to the "roller" action.

Secondly, hardly any modern roller trailers even have keel rollers. They have pairs of wobble rollers that support port and starboard of the keel. Obviously, more rollers is better than less, but the OEM trailers have the right amount.

You need to make sure that the stern is supported by the rollers,and that the rollers are far enough out from the keel to support the boat side-to-side.

 

[dingbat]

Boston Whaler is the only mfg. that I’m aware of that warns against the use of a roller trailer with their product.

I have a 22ft., #5200 boat that has sat on 24 roller, LoadRite trailer for the past 18 years with no problems whatsoever.

You read lots of antidotal claims against roller trailers but I’ve yet to see any first hand evidence or claims that make sense to a mechanical design engineer. Certainly not my experience anyhow

Then again, the bottom of my hull is solid fiberglass, 1/2” - 3/4” thick......you’re mileage may vary

 

[ahicks]

Another vote for backing the trailer in a little further.....

 

[racerone]

Remember with a roller trailer there are only so many supports.----Not a problem on a smooth road.----On a bumpy road ( say railway track ) the rollers could put a significant impact load ( punch ) on the hull.----Boston Whaler is correct with their warning.

 

[Chopp]

I back into the water enough, I should explain. I can crank the boat “all the way” up. It hits the rubber piece up there. I think it’s the fact that the rear of the boat is still floating, so when it comes out of the water, the bow rises and therefor I need to crank more. Does anyone know if I need to buy a new trailer? Or can I add rollers to my current?

 

[Lou C]

Post up some pix of what you have. If you have a bunk trailer and want to keep it that way you can use what they call bunk slicks and install a 2 speed winch those 2 modifications should make it easier to keep using the trainer you have. Here the choice depends on launch conditions; tides with wide swings in depth and shallow ramps rollers work better, but in areas with minimal tide depth swings and steeper ramps bunks can be used. I could not easily use a bunk trailer here due to 6/7 feet water depth change from high to low. I have a roller trailer with 24 rollers for a 20’ 3000 lb boat and a 2 speed winch. Most trailers here 85% are rollers. They do take a bit more maintenance that bunks.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I back into the water enough, I should explain. I can crank the boat “all the way” up. It hits the rubber piece up there. I think it’s the fact that the rear of the boat is still floating, so when it comes out of the water, the bow rises and therefor I need to crank more. Does anyone know if I need to buy a new trailer? Or can I add rollers to my current?

give it another crank prior to pulling up the ramp

 

[dingbat]

I can crank the boat “all the way” up. It hits the rubber piece up there. I think it’s the fact that the rear of the boat is still floating, so when it comes out of the water, the bow rises and therefor I need to crank more.

There are a couple of ramps that doe that to my boat as well.
My work around is the tighten the winch cable as far as I can then connect the safety chain to the boat. Once connected, I pull the trailer up the ramp to level ground to tighten winch the rest of the way.

 

[ahicks]

If the back of the boat is still floating when the boat is winched up to the bow stop, is there a chance you've backed into the water too far? Maybe look into one of those bow stops that come with a top and bottom roller mounted on a pair of arms that pivot at the point a single roller setup would use?

Oh hell no. Don't sell the trailer. Getting this problem right is a question of getting it set up and using it correctly. Sometimes that's just a matter of a little head scratching.

 

[JimS123]

Use rollers on a fiberglas boat? - that's what they were designed for.

How many rollers? - enough to properly support the hull. Cheap trailers may carry over 200 pounds on each roller. A quality trailer will carry no more than 125 pounds. Mine was custom made and I designed it to carry 85# per roller. I can literally turn each roller by hand.

Convert a trailer? - maybe. If the manufacturer sells both bunks and rollers, its likely that the frames are the same. In that case, merely order the bolt-on roller assemblies to maintain the proper weight ratio.

Boston Whaler will void the hull warranty if using an ALL roller trailer. But actually their Owner's Manual SPECIFIES keel rollers and side bunks.

For the OP's dilemma, since he already has a trailer, put EZ Slides on the bunks and don't back in so far and I bet the problem will be solved for only 50 bucks.

 

[Chopp]

I do crank the boat up as far as I can in the water and once it’s out I can’t crank it anymore, so I will post a picture when I’m out of the water, and I will add slides on the bunks and all you guys suggested

 

[Captain Caveman]

Before you spend money, try this. Crank your boat up to the bow stop as you've done. Get in your truck and pull forward a foot or so (figure out what is right) and crank up again while the stern is still touching the water.

Right now it sounds like you are cranking when all the way in the water and then again when all the way out. Why not finish cranking it up when only part of the way out.

 

[Chopp]

I did forget to take a picture, but I didn’t back in as far when I loaded the boat, and I was able to get it all the way up. I’ll add some slides on it to help move it easier, and hopefully that works out better. Thanks guys

 

[Mike_Berry]

I love bunk trailers. I've had many boats for years and years and have never had a problem. My 24 Skipjack I unhooked the winch and safety chain and head for the ramp. I know some will say that's a no no but no way in hell will it slide off the trailer while backing down the ramp. Someone backs me in, I start it,put it reverse and the person driving let's it roll back a little and off it comes. I drive it on the trailer and the truck driver locks it in with the winch and safety chain and pulls me out. I just go a little deeper if solo.

 

[isaacs]

For a quick fix, try some of this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/MaryKate-Liquid-Rollers-Trailer-Lubricant/dp/B07XBWYC69

You won't have any problem cranking your boat up to the bow stop roller once you reach level ground. But be careful; your boat is going to want to slide off the trailer as soon as you release the strap during launching! (Don't ask me how I know.)

 

[JimS123]

I love bunk trailers.

I've never had a problem.

I know some will say that's a no no but no way in hell will it slide off the trailer while backing down the ramp.

Hahahahah.

My evening recreation is to ride my bike down to the launch ramp and watch the idiots screw things up.

You can't imagine how many boats I've seen with their outdrives impaled into the blacktop because no way in hell....LOL.