Let's start from scratch on this trailer..

[rickasbury]

This trailer is a train wreck.will start from the beginning and I was very inexperienced with the size boat trailer. Had a couple of boats over the years but never really had trailer problems. This trailer catches me up. I will try to make it short.
bought a Rinker 270 about 4 years ago. Boat is another story so let's stick to the trailer.

Seller said yes, it has electric brakes...well, I figure the trailer was free in the boat deal.

I picked the boat up after a survey about 600 miles from my house. I'm in central Florida, boat was in the panhandle. Was so overwhelmed with the boat I never looked at the trailer. Although I did really tried to be prepared with for the trip home with the boat..had tools, grease gun...extra spares....so, when I got there and opened the resivoir for the hydraulic (not electric) brakes it was a rusted out desert looking mess. Trailer lights did not work, obviously brakes did not...tires were bald and I'm guessing the lugs would never come off (and found out later a grinder would be needed) so what should I do? I'm 600 miles from home, boat is paid for ....I'm heading to Orlando with a 8000 lb boat!

I actually did make it home ok- and as hard as I have worked on this trailer, can't seem to get it straight.

I replaced the resivoir and the electric back up lock out. I replaced the bearings and races..I did rebuild kits for the calipers...new shoes...and I can't seem to work right.

Recently as in a couple of weeks ago...apparently a brake siezed up, cooked the grease out. I think the heat allowed lugs that may not have been tight enough to work off and destroyed the hub and wheel.

So at a cross roads here how do I get this trailer straight.

Trailer is about a 2005 or so? The back up lock out has never worked..I checked the electrical and that is all good. So, not sure if it is the new valve or the brakes just don't work and lock up when I reverse? I put a block in there and that keeps them from locking.

The recent trip where I had the latest problem, I could back up without the block so something was not working with the system...and then I think the one caliper locked and it was total melt down.

So I replaced the hub but the caliper would retract so I just tied it off so I could move the boat. Also, I could not get the block in to the surge slide- tries yanking it forward with the truck, it seems stuck in which maybe explains why the caliper is locked up...just don't know where to start to get this thing straight...I'm fresh water and hardly been able to use the rig with the boat issues which is a whole other issue! If I just drop it off some where might as well buy a new one and that ain't happening? Any straight forward approach to this? Two of the calipers have been replaced...the brakes lines, do they go bad over the years? Do they constrict the fluid when they get old? I rebuilt the calipers, nothing was pitted or rusted...

 

[Scott Danforth]

Buy a new actuator coupler w/lockout

Get a roll of CU-NI 3/16 tubing and run all new brake lines

Get new rubber lines

Rebuild your calipers

 

[rickasbury]

what is the rubber lines vs the brake lines?? Can you get the connectors etc. for the lines? When I look at mine, it must have been a kit as there are parts of the line where the lines are coiled up as they were way to long....I have no idea how many miles are on the trailer....spindles looked "OK" but no way to really measure them...it's an aluminum trailer...I replaced one of the leaf springs that broke, have one more to install for the other side and then need to do the back axle also.....I like the idea of trailering our boat but man, what a PITA to get straight!

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you dont know how to make brake lines, this is where you may have to take your trailer to a mechanic.

no such thing as pre-made hard lines for a trailer. you need tube nuts and a flare tool. brake lines are double flared, so you need the right tools.

the coil is there to be somewhat flexible

the rubber lines are the flexible lines that go from the end of the hard line at the mounting tab to the caliper
here in Florida, there are hundreds of aluminum trailer manufacturers. you can get a new trailer for about $2500

 

[dingbat]

Sounds like you installed a blocking solenoid instead of a bleed type.

Is the solenoid in-line or does it have a return line?

Source for stainless steel brake line kits
https://www.easternmarine.com/Brake-Line-Kits-Tubing-and-Fittings/

 

[rickasbury]

I'm pretty sure the way my lines are run, there is no "rubber" line, just the lines that come back from the front and go right to the brakes. I do recall working on cars have a line running to a tab of sorts and then a rubber line going to the brake which I assume this line much more flexible than the "main" lines from the front...aren't the car ones metal and then run back to a tab near the brake and then the rubber line to the brake? My electric lock out is in line....which I replaced with the master cylinder. I looked at the site above for the lines and it was a lot less than I figured. Not sure how much the tools are and I can probably go to Harbor Freight and get them- probably would never use them again so I don't need mechanic grade stuff....so with that in mind, how much would someone guess to replace the lines? I know years ago I had an old van that the rubber tube mentioned was collapsed and fluid was either not going or coming and the brake was locked up, very similar to what I'm dealer with now...I need to put the boat in the water so I can bring it home and work on it.....I don't think I'd find this trailer for $2500 new or used...when I was looking for the boat and found boats with no trailer I was looking at 4 grand or so for a trailer.

 

[dingbat]

I'm pretty sure the way my lines are run, there is no "rubber" line, just the lines that come back from the front and go right to the brakes. I do recall working on cars have a line running to a tab of sorts and then a rubber line going to the brake which I assume this line much more flexible than the "main" lines from the front...aren't the car ones metal and then run back to a tab near the brake and then the rubber line to the brake?

Same as car. Hard line to bracket then flex to caliper. If you have drum, the hard lines can be run direct.

My electric lock out is in line....which I replaced with the master cylinder. I looked at the site above for the lines and it was a lot less than I figured.

That is your backing problem. The in-line (blocking) solenoids are designed for use with free-backing drum brakes. They don't release the pressure trapped in the lines when actuated. A bleed type solenoid (relieves trapped pressure) avoids a lot of problems.

Not sure how much the tools are and I can probably go to Harbor Freight and get them- probably would never use them again so I don't need mechanic grade stuff....so with that in mind, how much would someone guess to replace the lines?

DOT regulations require Stainless steel lines to be double flange. You can not do that with cheap hand tool kit. The tools would be a lot more than buying prefabricated lines and installing it yourself.

 

[rickasbury]

wow, I really have a piece of crap trailer! I have no metal lines...rubber from front to back. So I can purchase fabricated lines then? I have disc brakes....and I kind of recall when I bought the cylinder and lock out solenoid from E trailer that there was a difference between drum and disc....so stupid question, why would you have hydraulic lines for a drum brake, it that not all a mechanical system of braking?? I don't know much about brakes but guessing I will here shortly...I will post a picture when I get back by the boat......T4748800 is the p/n I believe I bought and it dies not specify if it is for drum or disc?

https://www.********.com/Accessories...ils=.questions if the link will work...

I'm confused...when I look at the on line e trailer for installation of this, it shows a rubber line coming out of the solenoid, not a metal solid line.....??????


So, another question...on my messages, I can't get to them....there is a subscribe picture for updates that blocks me from going to my messages and it won't go away! What is up with that??

 

[dingbat]

I have no metal lines...rubber from front to back. So I can purchase fabricated lines then?

yes

I have disc brakes....and I kind of recall when I bought the cylinder and lock out solenoid from E trailer that there was a difference between drum and disc....so stupid question, why would you have hydraulic lines for a drum brake, it that not all a mechanical system of braking??

Both disc and drums are hydraulically actuated systems. The difference is that drums use springs to retract the shoes from the drums. Disc brakes do not.

T4748800 is the p/n I believe I bought and it dies not specify if it is for drum or disc?

Wrong one. You want TK71-755-00

I'm confused...when I look at the on line e trailer for installation of this, it shows a rubber line coming out of the solenoid, not a metal solid line.....??????

You can use metal or rubber lines on a trailer. I've had both actually. Nothing wrong with the rubber but the brakes are a bit more "squishy" than the stainless. Will probably go back to stainless when these lines take a dump.

Biggest question....Actuators are brake type dependent. You need a disc actuator for disc and a drum actuator for drums. You can modify a drum actuator to work on disc, but not vice versa.
Which do you have?

 

[rickasbury]

That I will have to get the number off the actuator....I will see if I can stop by this evening...So I would be OK to replace what hoses I have with hoses- is that to say then the tools would be a little different than the steel lines? Something I could do myself? When you look at that back up valve, I don't see where it says for disc or drum and as I recall, I think I did the on line chat thing with them to get to that one...dummies!

Thanks for the info and I will see if I can get the part number and see what it is....I'm pretty sure it is a Titan actuator....would be nice to have confidence in this trailer going somewhere as I don't like to just boat in my back yard...might as well store it at a marina for that. We have so many places to go here in FL...

 

[dingbat]

That I will have to get the number off the actuator....I will see if I can stop by this evening...So I would be OK to replace what hoses I have with hoses- is that to say then the tools would be a little different than the steel lines? Something I could do myself? [

Steel and rubber are both DOT approved. Rubber is certainly easier to work with and requires no special tools.

When you look at that back up valve, I don't see where it says for disc or drum and as I recall, I think I did the on line chat thing with them to get to that one...dummies!

The either valve will work with either brake system.

The difference being that the bleed type solenoid automatically exhausts the existing pressure back into the coupler when you put the truck in reverse.

The blocking type solenoid requires you to pull forward to relieve the built up pressure, then put your truck in reverse to back up. All is good until you get into a situation where you can't pull forward first.

Even in the best case scenario some residual pressure always remains with the blocking valve, making it harder to back than a bleed solenoid

 

[rickasbury]

so when I tried to back up, it would lock up the wheels...I was more thinking the brake was dragging and then when I backed up it was jamming up....so the valve I have is ok? Likely old lines that are not moving the fluid properly? It seems like I'm 100% turned around from the start of this thread! On these hoses there are fittings so there must be something of a special tool to crimp them on the hose?? On the coupler itself, it does not seem like it is pulling forward- I have a block of wood I can slip into a space so when I back up it locks it out- since it is not appear to be pulling forward enough to put the block in, would that also mean it is not pull the breaks open as well? It seems the only wheel locked up is the one...and I can back up without locking any of the other wheels...I will get the actuator number on the way home....

 

[dingbat]

so when I tried to back up, it would lock up the wheels...I was more thinking the brake was dragging and then when I backed up it was jamming up....so the valve I have is ok?

Like I said, the valve you have is problematic with disc brakes to say the least. Your best to swap out with the correct unit. Do you hear a click when you put the truck in reverse?

Likely old lines that are not moving the fluid properly? It seems like I'm 100% turned around from the start of this thread! On these hoses there are fittings so there must be something of a special tool to crimp them on the hose??

Unless the hoses are leaking fluid, they're not your problem. Move on

On the coupler itself, it does not seem like it is pulling forward- I have a block of wood I can slip into a space so when I back up it locks it out- since it is not appear to be pulling forward enough to put the block in, would that also mean it is not pull the breaks open as well? It seems the only wheel locked up is the one...and I can back up without locking any of the other wheels...I will get the actuator number on the way home....

Sounds like the brakes are not properly bled.

You bled the one furthest brakes from the master cylinder first. Makes sure you get all the air out and go to the next. Usually takes a couple of times at each wheel cylinder to get all the air out of the system.

When properly bled, the coupler shouldn't move more than a 1/4" or so of movement. Mine typically moves less than an 1/8". If it gets over a 1/4", it's time to bled or add brake fluid.

See if this helps
https://www.championtrailers.com/disc-brake-installation/

 

[rickasbury]

huh.....well this went from replacing everything to bleeding the brakes! I will get the coupler number and see if that is the right one and work on the sleonid valve...will get it home and see. I did bleed the brakes and I did lose fluid somewhere which needs looking at. I did check the fluid before this last trip but I guess if I'm losing a little fluid, I'm sucking a little air correct?? Need to find the leak, get a new valve, bleed the brakes and check to see if I have the right coupler.

 

[rickasbury]

It's model 10...also, the caliper that is hanging has leaked some fluid...just not sure from where. Will have to bring it home....

 

[dingbat]

It's model 10...also, the caliper that is hanging has leaked some fluid...just not sure from where. Will have to bring it home....

your coupler is good....

 

[rickasbury]

So, I can assume what happened is I developed a leak in the line/caliper and the brake depressed but did not release because it had no pressure. It got hot and the grease all boiled out. Getting hot, probably lugs not as tight as they should be, started working themselves off and the resulting mess. So, fix the leak, get a new wheel, new hub is installed. Bleed the brakes, check for any other leaks and motor on.

 

[dingbat]

So, I can assume what happened is I developed a leak in the line/caliper and the brake depressed but did not release because it had no pressure.

Nope. Not how it works. No pressure = no brakes with a disc system.

Either the caliper piston or the slide pins seized. Caliper typically don't leak if seized.

My money is on one or both of the slide pins seized up. The only failure I've had with disc in almost 10 years.

Don't forget about replacing the backing solenoids designed for free-backing drum brakes.

 

[rickasbury]

I will...when I took the brake apart the pins were clean and came apart easily....I tried to push the puck in and it would not so I just hung the caliper so I could get it the 300 ft back to storage. Guess I will jack up each wheel and make sure none of the other calipers are hung up and put a block in it, go to the ramp and get this dang boat in the water!!! Been over two years.