Maple wood is too tough to split

[mike64]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Great info j Martin, thanks!

On sharpening. I sharpen all my own chains, and a lot for friends. I use files only.

If you grind on a chain, and overheat it, you loose the temper and it'll not hold an edge after that. Unfortunately, most of the hacks at the hardware store that sharpen chains are way to impatient to not hit it so hard with the stone that they blue it a bit. Dremmel is the same.

That line on the top of the cutter is not neccessarily the file angle. On a chisel tooth chain, the file is held about 10? down and 10? steeper than the line, and the resulting angle on the cutter will be parallel with the line. If you don't pay real close attention to those angles, the chissel point will dull very rapidly.

When I true up a chain for someone that's been grinding on it or having it ground, I often get the complaint that now the chips hurt. They thought it was supposed to be fine sawdust.

Here I'm doing a little fine work with my saw.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

On sharpening. I sharpen all my own chains, and a lot for friends. I use files only.

If you grind on a chain, and overheat it, you loose the temper and it'll not hold an edge after that. Unfortunately, most of the hacks at the hardware store that sharpen chains are way to impatient to not hit it so hard with the stone that they blue it a bit. Dremmel is the same.

That line on the top of the cutter is not neccessarily the file angle. On a chisel tooth chain, the file is held about 10? down and 10? steeper than the line, and the resulting angle on the cutter will be parallel with the line. If you don't pay real close attention to those angles, the chissel point will dull very rapidly.

When I true up a chain for someone that's been grinding on it or having it ground, I often get the complaint that now the chips hurt. They thought it was supposed to be fine sawdust.

Here I'm doing a little fine work with my saw.

^^^^^^ ....someone knows their stuff!!

Sharpening your own saw also gets you more "at one" with your equipment.
You can keep on top of it and retouching a chain can be done in less tthan 5 minutes....some can do it in WAYYYYY less...
If I am just going to be doing hardwoods, I'll add a few (say 5) degrees to the bevel angle, the blade will hold its edge noticeably longer.

 

[rbh]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

^^^^^^^^^^^^

I really hate it when I either forget to give the rackers a little file down, "OR" give it to much and it is a dog due to all that biting!

OK, Tim jumped in the middle.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

^^^^^^^^^^^^

I really hate it when I either forget to give the rackers a little file down, "OR" give it to much and it is a dog due to all that biting!

OK, Tim jumped in the middle.

I'll guess on the rakers once, or maybe twice, then I gauge them back to spec. That spec, by the way varies with the amount of wear on the tooth. The further back the cutter is, the deeper the raker needs to be to compensate for the tooth tipping backward slightly during the cut.

Mt guy, didn't say you didn't know how to grind em, just that most that do don't know how, including those that charge for the service.

 

[MTboatguy]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

I agree j_martin, there are allot of people out there selling services that really have no clue about doing it correctly..

 

[rbh]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Picked up a old stihl 075 at a garage sale for $10 a couple of years back, it has a 38+- inch bar.
The issue with it is it would not run, no spark so I pulled it down to the magneto and sure as heck the key was sheared.
.25c and an hour later the big monster fired up.

OH, what a beast

 

[Cofe]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Some real good pointers in this post!

I have used a dremel tool for sharpening chains for the past few years. I got tired of buying stones for them so I went to looking on ebay. They make diamond impregnated sharpening bits that fit a dremel tool. They work super well, and when they get gooed up with tree sap and oil, just clean them with a little carb cleaner and your good to go. I have used the same diamond sharpening bit for the last 3 years. Here is what they look like, and they come in various sizes.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

I'll guess on the rakers once, or maybe twice, then I gauge them back to spec. That spec, by the way varies with the amount of wear on the tooth. The further back the cutter is, the deeper the raker needs to be to compensate for the tooth tipping backward slightly during the cut.

Don"t get that last part. Do you mean as the cutter is worn back by repeat sharpenings?

I'll touch-up my chain maybe 3-4 times freehand and then use my jigs....and get the rakers then. If you are saying that eyeballing the rakers is OK for a few times, I'll have to try it. It would make sense not to get behind on the rakers, just never thought to do them "on the fly".

Thanks for the tip.

 

[Cofe]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

UMMM, cut block, an area were logging takes place.
I do not know if where you are if you can take your PMV (vehicle) into a cut block and start cutting up fire wood easly.
But around here you better walk in (LPC) or have a skidder or helicopter, and there is no 110VAC for your dremel.

usually, fire wood is brought out by the logging truck load.

Chances are that the heavy duty cutting you do requires a chisel point chain. But if you were to use the other style of chain, I would personally get this 12 volt cordless,variable speed dremel with a diamond bit in it. A good leather belt flashlight holder should keep the dremel ready at hand.

 

[rbh]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Chances are that the heavy duty cutting you do requires a chisel point chain. But if you were to use the other style of chain, I would personally get this 12 volt cordless,variable speed dremel with a diamond bit in it. A good leather belt flashlight holder should keep the dremel ready at hand.

They make a cordless dremel, who-woulda thunk it

(mindya, everything else these days are cordless)

 

[Cofe]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

They make a cordless dremel, who-woulda thunk it

(mindya, everything else these days are cordless)

Yea, the latest and greatest of newest man toys. Would make a great gift idea

 

[rbh]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Yea, the latest and greatest of newest man toys. Would make a great gift idea

Yup, but I usually break it or loose it when tramping through the sticks. :redface:

I think I will stick with the file, their cheap, just have to remember to put the tang handle on or I would probably drive it into my palm again. :facepalm:

 

[j_martin]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Don"t get that last part. Do you mean as the cutter is worn back by repeat sharpenings?

I'll touch-up my chain maybe 3-4 times freehand and then use my jigs....and get the rakers then. If you are saying that eyeballing the rakers is OK for a few times, I'll have to try it. It would make sense not to get behind on the rakers, just never thought to do them "on the fly".

Thanks for the tip.

Yep, as the teeth are worn by sharpening. After a couple of passes at the teeth, and cutting slows down a bit, I'll take a stroke off each raker before the next sharpening. Maybe after another couple of filings, I'll then check the rakers with a depth gauge.

I use the Carlton file-o-plate system of gauging. It automatically compensates for tooth wear on the depth gauge setting.

What I call a dull chain, most would consider sharp. I'll wear out 4 to 8 chains per guide bar because they require little pressure to cut.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Re: Stihl 075

I had one of those for awhile. It'd go through a 36 inch red oak in about 30 seconds. .404 chain and depth gauges at about .050".

Loved it. Main bearings got loose and the rod cap walked through the case into the chain oil cavity.

 

[mommicked]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

I always use just a hand file and handle w/o a brace or guide.It must be the correct size.I sharpen when I can tell its cutting slower or checks dull w my thumb.It never takes long to sharpen the 70s XL 20" bar, unless ive abused it or cut some nasty Hickory(Are sparks bad?) or hit the dirt.I tighten the chain on the bar and hold it w a leather glove while I file.make a pass or two and check the tooth,w a little practice you can put a scary edge on that saw,quickly.Just be sure to loosen the chain before you cut again.Ive never filed the rakers,my teeth are taller than them.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Yep, as the teeth are worn by sharpening. After a couple of passes at the teeth, and cutting slows down a bit, I'll take a stroke off each raker before the next sharpening. Maybe after another couple of filings, I'll then check the rakers with a depth gauge.



I use the Carlton file-o-plate system of gauging. It automatically compensates for tooth wear on the depth gauge setting.

What I call a dull chain, most would consider sharp. I'll wear out 4 to 8 chains per guide bar because they require little pressure to cut.

Thanks....makes perfect sense once explained.

Wonder if there are regional differences on the wood side.
This started with an OP about maple being tough to split.
I cut dead-standers...in my area that is almost always maple, ash or birch.
Those always split like a dream for me.
I dropped a a 30" elm once...now that was a nightmare to split!!

Wonder of it is more related to the wood aging/drying after it's died and is still standing....?

 

[j_martin]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

There are a lot of different subspecies of trees, so some maples would split easily, and some not so easy. Freezing, wet, etc often affects splitability. Another thing that affects the grain is where it grows. An American elm growing in the forest will be easier to split than a black oak growing in the open and subject to a lot of wind. White ash growing in the forest splits like glass. Grown in a yard it's downright tough.

I haven't seen any wood that couldn't be split by a good hydraulic log splitter.

 

[rbh]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

There are a lot of different subspecies of trees, so some maples would split easily, and some not so easy. Freezing, wet, etc often affects splitability. Another thing that affects the grain is where it grows. An American elm growing in the forest will be easier to split than a black oak growing in the open and subject to a lot of wind. White ash growing in the forest splits like glass. Grown in a yard it's downright tough.

I haven't seen any wood that couldn't be split by a good hydraulic log splitter.

Try Arbutus.

 

[mommicked]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

Many kinds of dead trees become hard and brittle if they stand a few years, dry out, and are hard on a chainsaw chain.If its not rotten it can be hard as rock.especially near the base.

 

[MTboatguy]

Re: Maple wood is too tough to split

You want to have some fun, try cutting Black Locust up after it has been standing dead for a few years, this stuff burns great, but man does it stink when you burn it, and it will dull the best chain in a matter of minutes..