MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

dccordell

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To make long story short, I pull the upper unit from the boat (lower was already removed from upper) and gear oil came spilling out from the u-joint bellows. It was quite a bit of fluid, not just a little bit.

Is this likely the oil seal(s) on the yoke? I've been doing a ton of searching on here and in the manual. I found the posts where ziggy did his seal a few years ago, but didn't see any threads about how that turned out.

Right now, it seems that I need all of the new yoke seals, the bearing retainer wrench, new concave washer that goes in front of the pinion nut, big hose clamp for assembly, and a torque wrench. Do I need a bearing cup driver?

Can you guys give any more guidance, tips, recommendations? Will I have to do any shimming, or should I be able to leave those alone? Will I have to remove the top cover of the upper?

Are these the parts I need (from here):
(item 27) 12-45810 WASHER, DRIVE GEAR TO UNIVERSAL JOINT NUT
(item 19) 66081A2 CARRIER ASSEMBLY, OIL SEAL
(item 18) 25-70937 O-RING, OIL SEAL CARRIER
 
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achris

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

If the drive has a 1.65:1 ratio you will need to remove the top cover. You are also going to need either a speedie-sleeve or a new yoke..
 

ktbarrentine

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

And the "right" service manual to guide you through the process.
 

dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

And the "right" service manual to guide you through the process.

I have the correct manual as far as I know, Mercruiser #4 (Stern Drive Units 120-260). They breeze through the whole assembly of the yoke, seals, and bearings pretty quickly, so I hope it isn't much harder or involved than it seems.

achris said:
If the drive has a 1.65:1 ratio you will need to remove the top cover. You are also going to need either a speedie-sleeve or a new yoke..

I believe that I have the 1.84:1 gears, or at least that's what I have written in my notes book from a couple years ago, not sure how I determined that though. If it is indeed 1.84:1, then no top cover removal?
**Edit: I determined 1.84:1 here. Thanks to Don (in the great lake in the sky)!

On the speedie-sleeve, do these come in common sizes for the yoke, or do I need to measure the yoke diameter with a caliper to determine size? I've never used a speedie-sleeve before, so that is new territory for me. Through other threads, I've found two different SKF numbers: 99227 and 99225. Which one?

Can I do this work without taking apart the u-joints since they are in good shape? I'm hoping so, hence using the speedie-sleeve instead of replacing the yoke.

Thanks for all the help guys... I was pretty darn disappointed yesterday when this oil seal realization hit me, but I'm feeling a little better about getting the job done.
 
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yjanray

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Jul 30, 2009
Messages
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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

To make long story short, I pull the upper unit from the boat (lower was already removed from upper) and gear oil came spilling out from the u-joint bellows. It was quite a bit of fluid, not just a little bit.

Is this likely the oil seal(s) on the yoke? I've been doing a ton of searching on here and in the manual. I found the posts where ziggy did his seal a few years ago, but didn't see any threads about how that turned out.

Right now, it seems that I need all of the new yoke seals, the bearing retainer wrench, new concave washer that goes in front of the pinion nut, big hose clamp for assembly, and a torque wrench. Do I need a bearing cup driver?

Can you guys give any more guidance, tips, recommendations? Will I have to do any shimming, or should I be able to leave those alone? Will I have to remove the top cover of the upper?

Are these the parts I need (from here):
(item 27) 12-45810 WASHER, DRIVE GEAR TO UNIVERSAL JOINT NUT
(item 19) 66081A2 CARRIER ASSEMBLY, OIL SEAL
(item 18) 25-70937 O-RING, OIL SEAL CARRIER

I had the exact same problem......had to replace the yoke and reseal the upper drive....

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...r-165-outdrive-gear-lube-exaust-590532-2.html
 

dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

I had the exact same problem......had to replace the yoke and reseal the upper drive....

Ah yes, yjanray, that's exactly what I'm looking at. I guess your posts got lost in all of the other threads I found on the subject.

I haven't taken anything apart yet, so I'm not sure how the yoke seal surface looks. Can I assume it needs to be repaired/replaced? How big of a job is it to replace the entire yoke (u-joints, oh no!!)? If it is terrible, maybe I'll just use the speedie-sleeve. I feel fairly confident cutting the sleeve down to size after installing it on the yoke.

I'm also going to bite the bullet and pressure test the drive while I've got it down. I'll have to do some searching on how to do this (do I have to rig up a pump/fittings, or can I Rent one that will work out of the box?)..
 

yjanray

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

well, it took me a couple of weeks, working on it after work, waiting on parts in the mail, things like that. I bought all OEM parts, so it was a little more pricey.... Overall, it was pretty stragith forward. I wish I had more tools and bigger areas to work, and it would be really handy to have a device to hold the whole assembly in place while re-torquing the bearing bolt. When I was done with the project, I wish I had a mechanic's workshop....but i do not :-(

The speedi sleeve would work pretty well, if you can cut it down, just beware of sharp edges tearing up new oil carrier seal....
I used a jig that ziggy made up, pretty much a bicycle foot pump...there are a ton of ideas up in the sticky section.....
 

FreeBeeTony

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dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

I think I have the general idea on the foot pump pressure tester... I'll be putting that together this evening.

On the speedi-sleeve, I'm getting two different SKF numbers: 99225 and 99227. How do I know which to order? The 99227 does mention it is 2.25", which seems to be the size I'll need?

Is there a seal kit that has the replacement seals to get this job done, or do I need to order them separately? From the diagrams, all I can see are the carrier seal assembly, and o-ring, and the pre-load washer. Am I missing anything? I'd like to go ahead and get some parts on the way to keep this job less than two weeks if possible (is it ever possible?:lol:)
 

dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

Depending on how old the drive is.......I would replace the yoke and u-joints while you have it apart.
Just my $0.02.............

I don't disagree with you on this. However, the previous owner of the boat had the entire drive rebuilt just before he parked the boat, so the u-joints don't have a whole lot of use on them at all, and they feel fine as far as I Can tell. On the yoke, I guess I'll just have to take the thing apart and look at it.

Any thoughts on the Sierra Yoke vs OEM? Much cheaper, and was recommended in another thread of the same subject on iboats. Just in case I end up replacing the yoke instead of going with speedi sleeve.
 
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CharlieB

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

The Sierra yoke will work just fine.

The edge of the speedi sleeve are a bit sharp after splitting off the drive flange. A strip of emery cloth can be used to help 'soften' the edge before installing the seal. Be sure to clean the surface to remove ALL traces of the emery and the ground of metal before sliding the seal on.

Slide your finger over the edge of the sleeve, if you feel any nick, edge, or catch, you're not done with the emery yet.
 

achris

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

With the speedi-sleeve on that location I just drive them on to full depth and leave the installation ring on... Saves having to deal with sharp edges... I don't rememnber the size (haven't done one for a while), just measure and select the right one. Also put some sealer on the inside of the sleeve. I use Loctite master gasket sealer.. red stuff. If all you need to do is sleeve the yoke, you don't need to disassemble the unis.

As for the seals, yes, a seal kit is available. -> Upper Unit Seal Kit for Mercruiser 26-32511A1, GLM 87500 - Sierra 18-2648 - iboats

But that kit includes quite a lot of parts you won't need. I would just pull it apart and assess what you do need and then start ordering parts....

Chris..........
 

dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

Chris, that kit is pretty cheap. I went ahead and ordered the seals from mercruiserparts, but that one carrier seal was $50 alone (#19, here). Does this kit come with that seal, or is it that the carrier assembly is the entire piece, which is more than I really need? If it will save me some time and grief, I'm ok with replacing the carrier assembly. I'm just not sure how those two parts go together until I get it taken apart this evening.

I'm going on the hope that I can get all the parts/tools in by this weekend and let this be my weekend project, but I know that is highly wishful thinking. If I need to change orders or order more seals, that's ok too, just will be a slight set back.

I've read several threads on this, so I think I have a decent idea of the steps involved, but I just won't know for sure until I get it all taken apart.

When I get the retainer nut off, will the entire bearing/yoke assembly just pull straight out? There shouldn't be any pieces falling out, right?
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

actually its #20 and goes for around $14.00 Made by National 712250 .Its the original one merc used. 483323VGO
There are shims in there ,so be careful you dont lose them .Slide it out, remove the nut and washer. complete assembly shgould just slide off.
If these gears have been replaced with the new style, you need to use rolling torque. If the gear simply slides off ,you have the old type with 2 inner rings. The newer gearset needs to be pressed off and rolling torque for re-assembly. It only uses the outer ring.
 
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achris

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

...When I get the retainer nut off, will the entire bearing/yoke assembly just pull straight out? There shouldn't be any pieces falling out, right?

That's right....

If you order the carrier, it comes with the seal already installed.

Another option if the yoke is in reasonable condition is to set the new seal about 40 thou deeper in the old carrier. That sets the seal further back and on a new area of the yoke. But you must make sure it's the same amount back all the way around. I have a piece of flat bar with a 40 thou step and I use that....

Chris.....
 
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dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

actually its #20 and goes for around $14.00

I see that now, it seems that the seal comes as part of the carrier assembly, which I guess I actually ordered the carrier assembly, so it should have the seal. I guess this might make it a little easier anyways? Not sure...

I'm going to see how the yoke seal surface looks... maybe I can do the .040" deeper. That would be great because the speedi sleeve was over $40! Almost worth it to just buy the new yoke if I didn't mind playing with the u-joints.

**Here's hoping for no rolling torque!!
 

dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

Got the yoke and bearing assembly out of the housing, not too hard at all. The first thing I notice is a good bit of red sealant around the retainer nut thread, which ended up inside the housing around the bearings and seal... not too much though. Not sure why it was used.

After removing the 15/16" lock nut, the gear, bearings, and spacer all came out as an assembly away from the seal. So does this mean I don't have to do the rolling torque method? Also, can I leave this entire assembly together after replacing the seal carrier assembly? It seems that I can just replace the seal, new o-ring, and slide the entire assembly back onto the yoke, then re-torque the nut. Am I on track with that?

IMG_0003 (Small).JPGIMG_0004 (Small).JPGIMG_0007 (Small).JPGIMG_0010 (Small).JPGIMG_0011 (Small).JPG

Yoke pictures in the next post (exceeded max photos)...
 

dccordell

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Re: MC-1 u-joint bellows full of gear oil

Here's the yoke seal surface. Not so good. I don't think the 40 thousands deeper trick would have worked here, right? I'm glad I went ahead and ordered the speedi sleeve! The yoke appears to have heavy grooves as well as pitting past the groove surface.

IMG_0018 (Small).JPGIMG_0019 (Small).JPGIMG_0020 (Small).JPG
 

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