To: tpenfield
So the heavier for you has provided the best ride quality?
I'm not tpenfield, but I have something to say about this...
It depends on a lot of factors! Deadrise is one of the bigger ones, as this influences how well the boat can cut through waves as opposed to ride over the top of them. My Larson has a relatively deep deadrise and therefore handles waves better than a similar sized Bayliner with a shallower deadrise. I've been on some bigger boats that didn't necessarily handle waves any better.
Not saying that deadrise is all there is to it, but using it to illustrate that there are lots of factors besides weight!
Even though the thread will be moved, I'll throw my $.02 in!
I would go with the Celebrity. You've got everything you need right there if you ever want the 5.7L. Just make sure the gimbal ring is tight.
The year. You've got the manifolds that match the bullhorn (exhaust tube) that is already fastened to the gimbal housing that is holding an MR gearcase. Without a serial number we don't if the engine is a "full circle" rear main or 2 piece. Regardless, you have the center rise manifolds which is good! Much better than the log style.
My $.02 turned into a half dollar!lol
All 3 seller's have said the transom, floor, and stringer are in good shape. How would I know the transom is bad while on land??
Well, look through the threads, you will find allot of sellers were not that honest or just didn't know enough themselves.
For the transom, look for any loose through bolts, bulges in glass (swollen wood), cracks near outdrive, and if you can make the transom flex by yanking on the outdrive, it needs major work. Also can test for moisture on the inside.
Running an engine on muffs is just a basic check. There can be many issues that don't show up until under load. At least do a compression check, but that is still not as good as a load test. Check oil for water.
Put the outdrive in gear (prop off), it should sound smooth. Again, not a good test without being under load. Drain a little drive oil out, check for water and metal shavings. Make sure the outdrive is one you can still get parts for. Test up and down trim and full steering motion.
Given the age and the pricing, you are most likely buying a project boat. Finding the one that needs the least amount of work, will be key to your overall enjoyment.
If there is someway you can scrape together another 1k you can jump ahead ten years in models. It will get you into much more efficient engines newer drives etc. If you don't live in a large metroplex look in the nearest one that has lakes, boats are cheaper everywhere this time of year.
Don't mean to be a downer on you're current finds.
As to those boats, which ever one is in the best overall condition would be my choice. The condition of the drive is often overlooked. Never liked 305's, but if that boat is in the best overall condition, I would over look that.
As to the moister meter test... i own a millwork shop and use a 250.00 pinless meter very often. It will tell you if there is moister present, but unless the boat has not been used or rained on anytime recently this will not tell you much. Meaning you will get a false positive for moister problems. They are very sensitive.
Follow the advice on looking at the rot problems, Knock on the transom, check the floor over VERY well... where seats are screwed down and engine mounts are attached is a good place to start. Peel carpet back in the corners. Don't fall for the new floor over the old floor trick.
Good luck!
I mentioned the lower prices. From what I can tell December and January are the best times to buy a boat on price. It may be different where you live.
I mentioned the lower prices. From what I can tell December and January are the best times to buy a boat on price. It may be different where you live.
So when you say scrap together another $1,000 I bump up 10 year's you are talking $3k range or 2k to 3k range?
Yeah I missed out on couple of deals on two Century boats 1985 & 1988 in the 1k range so I'm kicking myself because I like the Century 18ft - 19ft Bowrider models as they seem to be pretty sturdy from what I can tell or at least during the 80's.
One person mentioned the price of boats are still dropping.. We're in November and find it hard to believe that boats would be any cheaper from December through March but hell you never know right?
Right, if you could get 3k together i think you can start looking in the 90's. If you have 3k don't look at boats people are asking 3k for, look at boats people are asking 5-6 k for. Remember banks won't loan money on old boats, except a signature loan. Buyers with 5 to 6 k cash are limited especially in a down economy. Between it being the end of boating season and the bad economy, its a buyers market.
Look at the boat, size it up make an offer or just give them a card with your name and number with a standing cash offer. I promise you if you look at 10 boats for 5-6 k, and leave your name with a 3k cash offer, at least one will call you back. Take notes and do your research, give it a good look over before you make an offer of course.
Good luck!
Merc went back to rating stern drive engines at crankshaft 1-1-2003!
Joe, that is sweet advice! Sounds like you're the man when it comes to boat purchasing. Especially the boat loan part with lender's, you make a sound financial statement on that. 1 in 10 going down 33% to 50% is a sweet number.
You know, all of these cheaper boats I have listed all came down 30% to 40% from asking price so it only makes sense that the other price tier's would follow.
Everyone reading this thread.. Joe has made a valid point I think alot of buyer's forget about. Time to step-up the game plan. I'll keep you posted Joe.