Mercruiser 3.0 No Spark issues

[alldodge]

The exhaust boot on the elbow correct?

yes

 

[aidanmurphy]

Thanks guys, I will do some more investigating over the weekend and see if I can pinpoint the leak area

 

[aidanmurphy]

If I can't find said leak by running some water down the Y pipe or feeling around more, would filling the bilge up to the thru hull for the trim hoses be a bad idea?

 

[alldodge]

Yes, that's a bad idea. Water weighing 8 lb Gal it will add up quick

 

[achris]

Yes, that's a bad idea. Water weighing 8 lb Gal it will add up quick

Well, if it's a US gallon then it's 8.34 pounds, but a standard gallon is 10.02 pounds...

One kilogram per litre. Much easier system.

Chris...

 

[aidanmurphy]

So I could not get that damn exhaust elbow off. I ended up putting the boat back in the water on the trailer, the leak is a lot slower with the top of the out drive still out of the water. But once it's floating it's a decently steady stream again. I tried to feel for leak around the y pipe but there is no way I can pin point it like that. So I had a thought to run the engine and monitor the leak. It didn't really change in flow. I was wondering if it WAS the Y pipe would it change flow at all with the engine on / off? Any tips to get the coupler off the elbow? Also, I did notice very small leaks coming in at the speedo wire and the steering pin.... Again makes me question the state of the transom.. I had my wife bounce on the out drive while it was trimmed up and there was no flex in the transom, but I am sure it's had water soaking for a bit.

 

[alldodge]

The speed is a thin tube (not a wire), and if it can leak water in if the tube has a crack

There is a steering pin seal which keeps water out. Leaking from there means the seal needs replaced, and in most cases so does the steering pin

 

[aidanmurphy]

The speed is a thin tube (not a wire), and if it can leak water in if the tube has a crack

There is a steering pin seal which keeps water out. Leaking from there means the seal needs replaced, and in most cases so does the steering pin

The leaking from the steering pin area is very small as is the speedo tube leak. At the moment I am trying to determine the exact cause of the leak through the trim manifold area, transom or Y pipe... Or maybe the new trim manifold. I will probably pull the new manifold off and check the gasket surface again. I am considering taking it to a shop to have them pinpoint the leak at the transom to confirm my suspicions.. I am decently mechanically inclined but it's near impossible for me to get down there to investigate / get the elbow off. However I might take another crack at it. Thanks for all of the replies though, you guys have been great help

 

[alldodge]

Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the boot. Push a thin s rew driver under boot to loosen

 

[aidanmurphy]

Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the boot. Push a thin s rew driver under boot to loosen

Will try this. Do you know if it's easier to go at the top boot or the bottom boot on the elbow

 

[alldodge]

I get at both sides. Most time I just use a hose pick or screw driver only

 

[aidanmurphy]

So I got out today and wrestled off the elbow on the exhaust. I got a garden hose and stuck it down the Y pipe and put the plug in the boat. I let it run for a few minutes and looked around to monitor the leak, I did not see any sign of leakage around the Y pipe to transom area. After I turned the hose off and pulled the plug out there was virtually no water coming out other than what I had spilled.

So my next thought was to tighten some of the transom nuts. I was able to reach three of the lower nuts, the other I will have to grab a different wrench to get at. The two lower nuts turned pretty easy with a wrench, so I tightened them a few turns. I could tighten more but did not want to break anything. I got at the top of the two lower nuts on the port side and it was also easily turned with a ratchet. I tightened that one up as well. The nut I couldn't get to was the top of the lower two on the port side.

I went back out to the water and went to inspect with the boat on the trailer in the water still. My ramp is a little steep so the stern was lower in the water than it would be naturally. It did seem that the leak had slowed a bit from tightening the bolts, enough to where I wanted to go for a ride and monitor some more in open water.

I set out and went to a nearby cove and began monitoring the leak, it is definitely less when the stern is higher in the water. It seemed to have slowed to a trickle. Here is a video of the leak right after I finished cruising and shut off the motor. It seemed to dwindle even more after sitting longer

New video by Aidan Murphy

photos.app.goo.gl

I sat for about an hour or so monitoring the auto bilge pump and the leak. The bilge checks every 2 minutes for water to pump. It would take between 15-20 minutes for the bilge to take on enough water to trigger the pump. Closer to 15 if I was sitting on the swim deck. This is how much water came out after 20min.

New video by Aidan Murphy

photos.app.goo.gl

and another 15

New video by Aidan Murphy

photos.app.goo.gl

So I am thinking given after my Y pipe test went fine, a new trim hose manifold and gasket it must be the transom assembly/seal? Caused by a rotten transom.. What would you guys do if you caught this at the beginning of the season? Let the bilge keep up and run it.. Tighten the bolts up some more.. maybe try to seal them? Or deem it unsafe? The transom doesn't flex with a buddy bouncing on the OD. Just want some opinions of what anyone would try to get through the season, knowing it will need to have the motor pulled and some serious work done in the offseason. Thanks all

 

[nola mike]

I'd drill the transom to find out for sure. It takes 10 minutes. Also don't know if your garden hose test is valid, as unless the exhaust is plugged you aren't completely filling the y pipe. In the water that's completely full.

 

[aidanmurphy]

I'd drill the transom to find out for sure. It takes 10 minutes. Also don't know if your garden hose test is valid, as unless the exhaust is plugged you aren't completely filling the y pipe. In the water that's completely full.

Drilling will be next on my list, any suggestion on bit size? And heard on the Y pipe, is there any known way to test this isolated from the potential transom issue?

 

[nola mike]

Drilling will be next on my list, any suggestion on bit size? And heard on the Y pipe, is there any known way to test this isolated from the potential transom issue?

Bigger bit is easier to see what you got, maybe ¼". Try plugging the exhaust and idle relief ports and then filling the pipe. Dunno if something simple like a bag and rubber band over the prop and stuff something in the ports would do it. It wouldn't need to be perfect, just enough that you're able to keep the pipe filled. But I'd start with the drilling. Another thought is to put it in the water and see if the leak changes with someone bouncing on the drive or when you're under way (slowly so that everything is still in the water)

 

[alldodge]

I don't see drilling is needed because the transom is soft. Being able to tighten the bolts is showing that to be. With no more water being pumped and its not coming from the drive shaft, use the boat this season. Then replace the transom in the fall

 

[aidanmurphy]

I don't see drilling is needed because the transom is soft. Being able to tighten the bolts is showing that to be. With no more water being pumped and its not coming from the drive shaft, use the boat this season. Then replace the transom in the fall

Thanks, I think that is what I will do. Will keep this thread updated with any developments. Again thanks to all that has contributed!

 

[aidanmurphy]

Does anyone run Hydrofoils on their boat? The boat came with a stingray brand hydrofoil from the PO. I am wondering if this is really necessary on a 19 foot bowrider or if I should pull it off

 

[Scott06]

Does anyone run Hydrofoils on their boat? The boat came with a stingray brand hydrofoil from the PO. I am wondering if this is really necessary on a 19 foot bowrider or if I should pull it off

I have seen a lot of negative comments but I have run them in the past. Had a 17 ft with 3.0l that it improved getting on plane especially with a skiier. Eventually it broke of my cavitation plate it was attached to.

My advice is try the boat with it on and off an make your own decision. Ultimately comes down to how you use the boat and what your performance expectations are

 

[alldodge]

Agree with Scott try both

Had one on 2 different boats. Both the very ridge stingray model. The foil will use some hp due to increased drag. Having a 454 was no issue. On a 3L with no extra it will make things worse