Mercruiser 5.0 damage..Hydrolock? Spun Rod Bearing??...Need some suggestions

btwint

Cadet
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
10
I have the exhaust flappers on order but before I put everything back together I want to make sure I perform any recommended service while I have these pulled apart.

What service should I perform before reinstalling? I am attaching a few pictures of these parts to get an idea of condition.

Thank you for your help.

- Chris
 

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Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Pics came out too small for me to tell anything. No way to tell if the impeller has heat/friction related issues or age issues. If you don't know how long that impeller has been in there, it should have been replaced before dunking the boat. Old impellers get a set to the vanes and need a fairly regular replacement. New to you boat, an automatic replacement.

The shutters appear to indicate a overheat event on the boats past. So keep your focus on anything can be damaged by said excesses. Look at the rubber boots between Y pipe and elbows for one.

I'd also be thinking a carb rebuild, but I've been doing those since I was a kid and everything had a carburetor on it.
 

btwint

Cadet
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
10
Pics came out too small for me to tell anything. No way to tell if the impeller has heat/friction related issues or age issues. If you don't know how long that impeller has been in there, it should have been replaced before dunking the boat. Old impellers get a set to the vanes and need a fairly regular replacement. New to you boat, an automatic replacement.

The shutters appear to indicate a overheat event on the boats past. So keep your focus on anything can be damaged by said excesses. Look at the rubber boots between Y pipe and elbows for one.

I'd also be thinking a carb rebuild, but I've been doing those since I was a kid and everything had a carburetor on it.

Thanks Rick. I am replacing the impeller. Already have the full replacement. I will also rebuild the carb. I am curious if I should be doing any particular service to the bell housing, check engine alignment, grease this or that, replace these gaskets or O-Rings....things like that.

I am attaching better pictures.

- Chris
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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51,375
you are supposed to check alignment every year when you pull the drive to also check the gimbal bearing, bellows and u-joints

checking the alignment does two things. first, it checks alignment of the motor which keeps the coupler happy. next it greases the coupler which keeps the coupler splines from wearing.

the factory manual goes thru all the annual maintenance points.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,413
You should look very carefully at the driveshaft bellows, tilt it up by hand and look for small cracks starting in the folds, if you see that starting to develop its time to replace it. Good that there's no water in it.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Thanks Rick. I am replacing the impeller. Already have the full replacement. I will also rebuild the carb. I am curious if I should be doing any particular service to the bell housing, check engine alignment, grease this or that, replace these gaskets or O-Rings....things like that.

I am attaching better pictures.

- Chris

Chris,

When I was at your point in my boat owner training, I started out looking for ways to do all my own maintenance. That meant I spent money I wasn't really wanting to spend right after buying a boat, but in the end saved loads. Alignment bar, parts to build a pressure tester for the outdrive. Other tools and parts as needed. I almost immediately had to do a full bellows job and replace the lower shift cable.

Your next step, and the only one that prevents costlier repairs, is do all the maintenance. When you reassemble the drive, you have to pressure test it to know if any of the seals leak. You do this before pumping it full of oil. I built my pressure tester out of a 16 inch hunk of 1 1/2 PVC for a tank, an end cap, a T, a couple fittings to allow me to mount a air pressure gauge on one T and a brass T with a schrader valve and a small tube with the screw in barbed to 3/8 thread off a drive oil filler pump. There is a sticky on what the good/not good results are. Another on how to build your own tester.

Check alignment every year. Lots of good stuff to get from doing that as noted by Scott.
 

btwint

Cadet
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
10
They go into the drive thru the exhaust boot thru to the prop. The prop will not pass them so they start to block the exhaust and therefore reduce power to the motor.

Look in the Y-pipe and suggest replacing the flappers.

Finally working on the exhaust flappers. As mentioned earlier when I took the drive apart the flappers fell out the exhaust exit. The only problem is I can only find 3 halves and 3 metal plates. Where could the other one have went?

I have checked both sides of the Y pipes and ran a small rubber hose through it to try and fish it out. There is nothing there.

Thoughts?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,326
If itd not in the drive exhaust behind the prop then it exited out the prop so no worries
 

KJM

Lieutenant
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Jul 31, 2016
Messages
1,271
if you get water coming thru the intake hose, not just a dribble, then i wouldn't worry too much about the impeller. i've forgotten to turn the hose on a few times and the impeller suffered no damage that i can tell as the engine kept proper temp when running. get the desieling problem fixed first then worry if you are overheating
 

Southtowns27

Seaman
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Messages
73
One more thing to look at regarding the dieseling is spark plugs of an incorrect heat range. Run the plugs recommended by the sticker on your engine
 
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