Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

I think I'm going to leave the sync project to the pros at a shop. Have never done anything like that before and with close to $1,000 in parts I would rather not screw it up. I pulled the exhaust cover, boyyyyyyy was it caked up and dirty! Pistons look to be ok ... not sure what to look for as far as damage or problems though. As far as the water filter, does it matter where I install it in the fuel line? Bilge side right after the tank ok?

Also, does anyone know if a CDI #414-5532 plug harness will work for a replacement?
I have looked up the original harness OEM#R84-96188A2 and #84-96188A4 but can't find a replacement ... I figured the CDI was closest to it and I have a boat side line that will match my box and the CDI harness.
 

carholme

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Justin;

Maybe I am reading things wrong but your engine comes up as:

1150 (115.0) 4567952 - 4855152 1977

From here:

http://www.storesonline.com/site/573683/page/609774

Therefore, for that engine s/n, the harness which is still available comes up as p/n 84-69236A1, item 1 here:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/463_8.cfm

The number you have quoted in your last post 84-96188A4 comes up as applicable to a Mariner 115, seen here as item 12:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/657_60.cfm

As there are no 1977 Mariner 115s within your s/n range, I just wanted to make sure you were using the right parts listing for your engine.

Hope this is not confusing and that I am not messing you up.

Gerry
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

I think I'm going to leave the sync project to the pros at a shop. Have never done anything like that before and with close to $1,000 in parts I would rather not screw it up. I pulled the exhaust cover, boyyyyyyy was it caked up and dirty! Pistons look to be ok ... not sure what to look for as far as damage or problems though. As far as the water filter, does it matter where I install it in the fuel line? Bilge side right after the tank ok?
.

The water filter goes between the fuel tank and the engine. It can be anywhere that you can conveniently change the filter. Remember, the filter will be full of fuel and water, so mount it on the side away from the batteries.
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

The actual powerplant (block) has been changed out. The lower end and mount is original which is a 1977 and the powerplant is a 1984. I can't find the replacement harness to the 1984 powerplant.

Also, any input on getting the flywheel off ... Do I need to get a puller?
 

carholme

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Sean;

What is the s/n off the plug on the 1984 powerhead?

Gerry
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Found the harness. Work is coming along alright, kind of slow for my liking. Few questions have came up ...
Do I have to put sealer/ conditioner on the new gaskets or do I install them dry?
Before I install the pistons, should I lightly coat them and the cylinders with anything?

I have to replace a few piston rings ... still trying to figure out which size. Any in-put is welcome!
Can't wait to get her going!

Thanks guys,
Justin
 

merc850

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Get the Serial Nr. and ask a Mercury dealer for the piston rings. You can put Perfect Seal or Permatex gasket maker on the gaskets(not really needed).
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Get the Serial Nr. and ask a Mercury dealer for the piston rings. You can put Perfect Seal or Permatex gasket maker on the gaskets(not really needed).
Unfortunately the serial number will not tell you if the block has been bored or not. measure the bore, the standard is 2.875 and oversize pistons and rings are in .015 increments.
 

Psiclown

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Winninggggggggggggggg!
Gerry deserves a case of beer, or six.
Thanks for all the replys ... Parts being ordered tonight, I'll let you know how that pans out.

The run I was on made Jagger and Richards look like droppy eyed little children.
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

So I finally finished taking the whole motor apart ... and by WHOLE motor I mean WHOLE motor; right down to the last bolt! I figured if I have this much time and money into it, I mind as well make it a project. Started sand blasting alot of the parts, most of which had a bunch of flaws in the paint or little to no paint left on them. De-greasing everything is a pain in the butt ... and whoever got their hands on the grease gun the last time this motor got a lube job should be shot! It was amazing, I didn't know you could waste so much and make such a mess. I found small holes in three out of the four trim lines, which im sure added to the extra gunk.

I have alot of bolts and such that are in poor condition ... rather then re-use them I'm thinking of replacing a majority.
Would it be alright to use stainless steel as a replacement? Buying from online vendors require min. purchases of around five items, so even if you need just one your stuck with extras and more expense. I was thinking of buying the stainless from Ace Hardware.

I checked out the pistons ... Standard rings seem to be the replacement. Still checking prices out, all the extras are adding up quick so I'm being tight and saving as much as I can.
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

So I finally finished taking the whole motor apart ... and by WHOLE motor I mean WHOLE motor; right down to the last bolt! I figured if I have this much time and money into it, I mind as well make it a project. Started sand blasting alot of the parts, most of which had a bunch of flaws in the paint or little to no paint left on them. De-greasing everything is a pain in the butt ... and whoever got their hands on the grease gun the last time this motor got a lube job should be shot! It was amazing, I didn't know you could waste so much and make such a mess. I found small holes in three out of the four trim lines, which im sure added to the extra gunk.

I have alot of bolts and such that are in poor condition ... rather then re-use them I'm thinking of replacing a majority.
Would it be alright to use stainless steel as a replacement? Buying from online vendors require min. purchases of around five items, so even if you need just one your stuck with extras and more expense. I was thinking of buying the stainless from Ace Hardware.

I checked out the pistons ... Standard rings seem to be the replacement. Still checking prices out, all the extras are adding up quick so I'm being tight and saving as much as I can.

You do not need stainless bolts, I routinely replace all the bolts when I build a block, my preference is socket cap screws but you can use standard head bolts too. I buy mine in boxes of 50 at a fastener house. I know ACE is good, but I am sure you can buy in bulk locally and cheaper. Check your yellow pages...old school I know...but fasteners don,t need to be on line. I buy from Fastenall, I am sure you have more than one in Michigan. Grade 5 are fine, 85,000 psi.
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

I checked out the pistons ... Standard rings seem to be the replacement. Still checking prices out said:
How are your cyl bores?? Did you measure for out of round? If you put new rings in oval bores they won,t seat worth a damn. Were any of the rings broken?
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Thanks Dave!

My brother-in-law is going to check them. There weren't any broken rings when I pulled everything out; however, I had two of them break when I set the pistons down on the table... I assume thats from age and wear. I thought I read somewhere that its kind of common when pulling out old pistons with old rings ... not sure though.

Justin
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Cool, yes old rings are brittle and break easily. They may have been broken in use and just along for the ride, that happens too. When you hone the cyl, which I assume you are going to do, be especially careful if you are using a 3 stone hone. You can turn a straight cyl into an oval one really easily. This is one of those things that if you do not have the right tools you can do more harm than good. Remember, you cannot hone a cyl back into true, the hone will just follow the contours. You will have some special challenges when you put the crankshaft assembly back into the block. If this is your first time you WILL break a ring or two, buy a couple of extras. If these are the 3 ring pistons re use the lower ring and just replace the top and middle, you will find that the rings come in packs of 2 unless you find a dealer with old stock. Newer pistons are 2 ring and use a different style ring altogether. Typically a set of rings runs around $70 in the us.
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Good to know! I found a set of 12 Mercury replacements online for $60 ... I think I'll just buy two sets which would leave extras anyways cause of the three ring pistons. My uncle owns a auto shop so I'll prob end up using some of his piston ring clamps for the install ... I hope.

Yes this is the first time I have ever done anything this crazy before ...
The insides look alright, I haven't found any major scratches or anything so we will see what comes about.
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Good to know! I found a set of 12 Mercury replacements online for $60 ... I think I'll just buy two sets which would leave extras anyways cause of the three ring pistons. My uncle owns a auto shop so I'll prob end up using some of his piston ring clamps for the install ... I hope.

Yes this is the first time I have ever done anything this crazy before ...
The insides look alright, I haven't found any major scratches or anything so we will see what comes about.

You will find that the automotive clamps will not work due to the geometry of the crank and the set up of the block.....unless you are removing the pistons from the crank and inserting them one at a time. Otherwise there is nowhere for the tool to end up as this is a blind hole block. You are putting the pistons in from the crankcase side...the crank is going to get in the way. If you do remove the pistons from the crank, make sure you put the needles and the rod caps in separate baggies and mark the baggies as to which cyl they belong. You have the newer block so it should have the new style rods where the rod bolts screw into the rod....not the nut and bolt type. If so (new style) its not too bad doing it one cyl at a time and bolting the rods up to the crank. If you have the old style rod (nut and bolt) you will need to borrow a set of merc ring compressers, set of six. A pic of your crank assembly with the pistons would help here. Find out your uncles beverage of choice and add it to your parts list....he is going to need it.
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Dude, totally appreciate the input. I?ll work on getting a picture.
I have done some reading but correct me if I'm wrong here ...
Honing the cyl is to essentially clean out the carbon and burs to make sure the new rings seat properly?
Is this going to require bigger rings? OR Will stock OEM replacements work?
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Dude, totally appreciate the input. I?ll work on getting a picture.
I have done some reading but correct me if I'm wrong here ...
Honing the cyl is to essentially clean out the carbon and burs to make sure the new rings seat properly?
Is this going to require bigger rings? OR Will stock OEM replacements work?

Honing is to break the glaze that forms on the cyl walls when the rings wear and blowby happens. There should not be any burs. You will not need larger rings, the stock size is fine if your cyl is still 2.875 . Honing will not remove significant material, it will just create a surface for the rings to seat. The problem occurs when folks go wild with the hone. If your uncle does automotive blocks he will be familiar with the process, although he will be familiar with a sunnen type hone that can extend through the block. I have had good success with a ball hone or flex hone. Available in the correct diameter for your engine. The advantage with the ball hone is it does a good job of beveling the port edges while it hones the cyl. Lots of cleaning is required afterwards, your uncle will be familiar with this too.
 

heroforlife911

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Just did some more reading and research ... Looks like I'm going to use a Flex-Hone. As much as I would like to rely on my uncle for help, he's crazy busy and doesn't normally put his 22 year old nephew at the top of his list. Got to learn some time in life ...

What grit sounds appropriate?
Should I use a 3" Flex?
 

daveswaves

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Re: Mercury 1150 ... Needs to find the bottom of the lake!

Correct, 3" flex or ball hone. What choices does your vendor offer, take the finest grit, ie largest number. Use lots of oil.
 
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