We need to qualify this entire discussion. In my work, my saws can go from hacking deck timber to hardwood trim finishes. The right blade for the material is paramount not only for finish, but to reduce the wear and tear on the saw itself. If the OP's need is for a mitre saw to build the occaisional deck, they'll all get there with the right blade. If you want to build piano parts or expect high quality joints in hardwood or composite materials, or use it in extreme conditions. saws become quite different. The initial blade run out (lateral movement of most Dewalts or Ryobi saws can be as much as .015 by my observation, and after moderate use increase to .025. Fine for hacking up 2X4's and building decks but NOT acceptable for hardwood floor installation, cabinetry, etc. My 12 yr old Makita after hundreds of hours use still exhibits less than .008. Most of us don't work a mitre saw this hard and probably break out the mitre saw once a month or so and rarely for critical finishes. Most saws will work fine for this use, and again will live longest with a properly matched blade for the material. But it's about having the right tool for your expectations. I'm sure I work my stuff harder than most and make my living by their output, thus I'm picky.
