glenn property of pam
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- Feb 17, 2012
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Re: need a sticky/link on how to use a basic volt meter
great job don i like it and will link to it.
great job don i like it and will link to it.
I think a Test Probe light would get you further then anything that a simple Volt meter can do in a simple 12 volt leg system.
Visual inspection of connectors and wire connectors would be a better bet.
Also .. just because you get 12.7 volts at the battery .. does not mean you have the Amps anymore. You need to Load test the battery to see if it can put out the Amps.
I can think of a few things:
1) Voltage drop across a coil.
2) Voltage drop across a ballast resistor.
3) Voltage drop from the battery to a starter to determine resistive connections or a starter consuming excess current.
4) Voltage drop from the battery to any number of destinations that go through connectors to determine a resistive connector.
This is just a few and that's just for measuring voltage drop.
Other things you need a multimeter for in a 12V DC system.
1) Measuring AC ripple of your alternator output due to bad diodes.
2) Measuring alternator output voltage.
3) Measuring coil primary and secondary resistance.
4) ....
how to use a volt meter to test a battery that goes flat after 2 weeks
electricity is sometimes refered to like a liquid. a battery can be thought off as a bucket of electricity when everthing on the boat is turned off there is not meant to be any flow of electricity. the flow is so small that you will need a digitial volt meter (dvm) to read how much electricity is escaping leaving the battery empty
what do you guys think to this.....hard to keep it short and not complicated yet not insulting
Well Glenn, I felt ambitious this morning, here is one I put together on testing voltages up to the fuse panel in a boat.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=583456
You guys look at it and make sure I don't have something wrong in the pictures and/or the text or making something clearer.
Can you take 5 mins and show how a test light might be utilized using the same concept of a "voltmeter" please. ..
I will find a problem faster using my test probe then most will find with there Meter ..
In an engineering lab, no one uses a test light. I have a extra Fluke meter that I bought specifically for my boat and it stays in there.
Most of the problems I see on the forum are voltage drop issues where someone can't figure out why they are getting 9 volts at the helm with a load turned on. Need a meter for that.
The best thing that a test light will do is to put a small load on a circuit. Many people will get fooled using a meter on a circuit that has a high resistance with no load becuase you will still read full voltage..
Spoken like true Electrical and Electronic engineers. :facepalm:
Now, lay on your back on wet carpet trying to get under the dash of a 17' bow rider and find out why some lights aren't working. You can just barely get your head under there, maybe one hand, so trying to use two test leads and reading a meter is all but impossible. Clip on the test light ground, then with one hand an one eye you can probe different spots and watch the bulb.
On boats, .05 volt loss doesn't mean a hill if beans like it does in electronics. In boats, 5 or 6 volt loss is noticeable and a problem, your milli and micro volts wouldn't even be noticed.
In boats a marine tech will do something like this to find out why a light is out or real dim.
View attachment 173107
CLICK HERE, then scroll down and look at the related items.
i have proberly $12k in meters and a 11 dollar wiggy as none of my other meters can add a load and as more things become solid state im sure the forum will be full of questions on why the meter reads 12.5v yet it wont lamp a bulb
you are not de-railing the tread if anything you are adding to it yd. to be honest we need more people to pitch in especially the ones who do not work on electrical every day to see if they understand what we are trying to say. until this thread gets on a banned subject its all good info and ideas