New to forum, buying a used boat.

[RSVRMAN]

And so the journey begins. Hello all and happy boating!

I?ve had my mind set for a long time on getting a boat and finally just got the approval that it?s ok to get one. I really wanted to get one at the end of last season, but I had to buy a shiny round thing, which postponed it until this spring. I?m hoping to get a good deal just like the next guy. I will give the brief and hopefully some can steer me in the right direction. If I?m not being realistic let me know as I take criticism well and understand that this is new to me and I have a lot to learn.

I?ve previously had dirtbikes, snowmobiles, sportbikes (hence RSVRMAN) even have done a few car projects. I?m not scared to dig into the motor if I need to, but I?d prefer to be on the water and not fixing the boat.
I?m currently in the market for a 1990-newer 17? boat with a 4.3. I begged and pleaded for bigger, but the agreement is it must fit in the 3rd stall of our garage. The dimensions are 7?H 8?10?W 19?3?L. I can possibly go a very small bit sideways and get 6 more inches, but not much more. I?m already planning on going with a swing tongue or cutting it off and welding up a new design if I need to. I?m aware it depends on the trailer, but I should probably narrow my list to just the 176?s so I don?t show up with a tape measure and just be disappointed that the boat will not fit. I?m fairly set on the 4.3. I weigh about 215 and plan on doing a lot of wakeboarding. I have wakeboarded fine behind 3.0?s previously, but there was a very noticeable difference in getting up on the 4.3. I also plan on pulling tubes and working the engine fairly hard.

The boat at times may have 4 adults, but never more than that. I don?t know how much prices vary, but I?d be willing to drive across a state to get a good deal. It does seem that MN has tons of boats for sale already. I?m looking to spend approximately 5k. I?m not sure if that will buy me a good boat, but I suppose the price can change to the quality of the boat. I would really like to stay in that area. I would also prefer to have the bench style seating in the back.

Feel free to chime in if there are others that aren?t on my interest list that I should be considering. Looking at Larson, Sea Ray, Glastron, Crownline, Maxum. Only brand I will probably stay away from are Bayliners. I have nothing against the boat, but from the few I have seen its owners are typically not the best caretakers.

Any additional advice to look for while shopping would be awesome. I know to walk the floor and feel for soft spots. Can these always be found by just walking or are there any extra special tricks? Is there a way to tell if the stringers are shot? I?m fairly knowledgeable on engines, but anything in particular besides compression/milky oil with the 4.3? Check hull for damage cracks/blisters/patching. Spin prop to see if it seems to be balanced/straight. If possible lake test, but as I?m going cheaper I?m not sure if boat owners are always willing to test their boats.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Lesson #1: An 8 ft-6 in hull will not fit through a 9 foot single width garage door. A 9 foot door is actually less than nine feet due to the trim work. The 7 foot door height also suffers from the trim situation and the windshield may be a bit high but lowering the tongue when backing in might work. You might also try getting into the third stall through the double width door but height can still be an issue.

Lesson #2: If an owner will not consent to an on-water test he is a) hiding something, b) not very motivated to sell, or c) has something to hide. If he has something to hide, it is probably something expensive. If it wasn't, he would fix it. I/O's have fairly complete instrumentation so verify that each gauge works and reads normal when the engine is warmed up. Steering, shifting, throttle action, starting, battery condition, soft spots in the floor also means stringers may be rotten and that means a major time consuming repair. Use common sense and not emotion when shopping.

 

[RSVRMAN]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Lesson #1: An 8 ft-6 in hull will not fit through a 9 foot single width garage door. A 9 foot door is actually less than nine feet due to the trim work. The 7 foot door height also suffers from the trim situation and the windshield may be a bit high but lowering the tongue when backing in might work. You might also try getting into the third stall through the double width door but height can still be an issue.

Lesson #2: If an owner will not consent to an on-water test he is a) hiding something, b) not very motivated to sell, or c) has something to hide. If he has something to hide, it is probably something expensive. If it wasn't, he would fix it. I/O's have fairly complete instrumentation so verify that each gauge works and reads normal when the engine is warmed up. Steering, shifting, throttle action, starting, battery condition, soft spots in the floor also means stringers may be rotten and that means a major time consuming repair. Use common sense and not emotion when shopping.

Thanks for the advice! The measurements are from the side trim to side and concrete to top trim. I can go through the double if need be, but would prefer not to.

I'm great at walking away sellers. I was just unsure on the lake test as when I sold my more expensive motorcycles I never let them test ride them for fear of crashing. I figured a well educated rider could get a 90% assessment on a motorcycle stand or ride beside. I will be sure to lake test then.

 

[Jonnybbad]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Take some real good measurements. My 1986 18 footer with the outdrive taken off just barely fits in my 24ft long garage for winter storage. As a matter of fact the garage door slightly bumps the trailer tongue on the way past. I have no swing away tongue, which would only gain me about 2ft with my trailer. You may possibly end up having to consider something a bit smaller in the end if you intend for it to be garaged. Be sure to check well for gelcoat cracking or crazing around the outdrive, indicating most likely a well rotted transom. I came across one with real nasty cracking when shopping for a cruiser this last summer, and of course the owner had nothing to say about that. Sure its in great shape.... Also, look for a Mercruiser powered vessel if you want to find reasonably priced parts and good availability on used parts from what I've seen anyways. Sounds like you might do your own wrenching like myself, so I thought you might find that useful.

 

[roscoe]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

An, you won't gain anything by parking the boat on an angle. BTDT
You need a lot of space to swing it sideways, and by then, the corner of the transom or the side of the bow area will be hitting something.

One option is to cut a hole and build a dog house on the back of the garage to accommodate the outdrive.

Good luck finding a boat with a 4.3 that will fit.

Might want to consider a 16' with an outboard. You will save a couple hundred pounds in weight, and pick up a bit of interior space.

Bellows and cable boots are needed to keep the water out, find out when they were last changed.

And way to much potential for hidden damage, so a 30+ minute water test is mandatory.

I also think you are going to have to bump up the price a little to get what you want.
Boats are expensive in MN.

This one would fit the bill, but 6k and no swing tongue.

17' runabout boat

Be patient, the best deals are desperate sellers who need cash yesterday. And the best time to get the best deal is mid-July.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

RSVR -

Welcome to iBoats . . .

I agree with the others about the garage . . . probably not going to fit in that space. Keep in mind the trailer tongue, etc unless you get a swing-away tongue.

I assume that this boat will be used on lakes, etc. not the ocean. :noidea:

Your budget will be important, as that will have a lot to do with the age and condition of the boats that you can buy. Also, keep some of the budget money in reserve for things that you need to fix from the get-go or things that you want to add to the boat. I got a 'new-to-me' boat last Fall and have been getting it ready over the winter for launching in May. the 'Admiral' and I were just discussing yesterday that the after purchase cost of 'stuff' has been about 20% of the purchase price

You picked the time of year where the sellers will be in charge of the market for boats in good condition. things will go quickly over the next 2 months as folks do what you are doing. So, you will probably not not get the same 'deal' as you would get in the Fall & Winter.

If you are looking at some older boats, structural condition and related issues will be key. Browse the Restoration Forum for many (many) examples of folks buying a 20 year old boat, only to find that they had to gut the thing and replace all of the structure (transom, stringers, bulkheads, etc). You will have to stick your head in the bilge, open compartments, etc. A long narrow screw driver or an ice pick is a useful tool along with a percussion hammer to check for soft spots and rotting structure.

Maybe you could review some of the information on the Internet from boat surveyors, like David Pascoe, etc.

Feel free to post some links of boats that you are considering, as that will get additional feedback, etc.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Welcome to the forum. You've made the best first step by coming here first. We've definitely saved lots of new owners from buying money pits. Stick with Mercruiser or Volvo with Chevy based powerplants. Check any boat VERY carefully for rot. ANY soft spots are usually indicative of rot below deck in the stringers. I wouldn't worry much about brand with used boats. I'd happy take a well maintained Bayliner over a ragged out Cobalt.

 

[RSVRMAN]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Take some real good measurements. My 1986 18 footer with the outdrive taken off just barely fits in my 24ft long garage for winter storage.

Yup I?m taking that into account as well. I will probably be looking at the 17? boat?s for that particular reason. I?m also a decent welder so if need be I can modify the front of the trailer if need be. I may even conjure up a removable tongue to get it in there. I could always measure wrong get it home and tell the better half I screwed up cant return it and put it on the other side, but I?m trying to avoid waves.

An, you won't gain anything by parking the boat on an angle. BTDT
You need a lot of space to swing it sideways, and by then, the corner of the transom or the side of the bow area will be hitting something.

One option is to cut a hole and build a dog house on the back of the garage to accommodate the outdrive.

Good luck finding a boat with a 4.3 that will fit.

Might want to consider a 16' with an outboard. You will save a couple hundred pounds in weight, and pick up a bit of interior space.

Bellows and cable boots are needed to keep the water out, find out when they were last changed.

And way to much potential for hidden damage, so a 30+ minute water test is mandatory.

I also think you are going to have to bump up the price a little to get what you want.
Boats are expensive in MN.

This one would fit the bill, but 6k and no swing tongue.

17' runabout boat

Be patient, the best deals are desperate sellers who need cash yesterday. And the best time to get the best deal is mid-July.

I do have about 4 ft between the double door and 3 ft on adjacent side. I may get 6?, but that would be all I need after my adjustments. Ive seen a Larson Flyer or sei that seem to have 4.3 or a 17? glasstron with the 4.3 quite often last fall when I was browsing time will tell if I see any this year.
I appreciate the recommendation on the outboard, but I?m nervous about owning/working on one. I?m sure I could learn, but the 4.3 is a van engine and if anything goes wrong (engine wise) I can probably do fine.
Thanks for the advice on boat testing. I will be sure to do that.
I?m hoping to stay around my price. The good thing is I?m in no hurry. I can wait until June/July if need be. I would prefer not to, but I will walk away or spend a extra 1k if it?s worth it.

RSVR -

Welcome to iBoats . . .

I agree with the others about the garage . . . probably not going to fit in that space. Keep in mind the trailer tongue, etc unless you get a swing-away tongue.

I assume that this boat will be used on lakes, etc. not the ocean. :noidea:

. Also, keep some of the budget money in reserve for things that you need to fix from the get-go or things that you want to add to the boat. I got a 'new-to-me' boat last Fall and have been getting it ready over the winter for launching in May. the 'Admiral' and I were just discussing yesterday that the after purchase cost of 'stuff' has been about 20% of the purchase price


If you are looking at some older boats, structural condition and related issues will be key. Browse the Restoration Forum for many (many) examples of folks buying a 20 year old boat, only to find that they had to gut the thing and replace all of the structure (transom, stringers, bulkheads, etc). You will have to stick your head in the bilge, open compartments, etc. A long narrow screw driver or an ice pick is a useful tool along with a percussion hammer to check for soft spots and rotting structure.

Maybe you could review some of the information on the Internet from boat surveyors, like David Pascoe, etc.

Feel free to post some links of boats that you are considering, as that will get additional feedback, etc.

Thanks for the tips! After seeing that list I might just type up a piece of paper and bring it along as a checklist. That way I don?t forget to check anything.
20% seems very costly! I know parts can be steep, but as luck would have it I have about any tool I would probably need. I?ve actually already been youtubing gimbal repair, impeller ect. Learning what repairs look like on the back end that I have yet to experience. Most seem fairly easy to understand.
I will check out the restoration forum as well!

Welcome to the forum. You've made the best first step by coming here first. We've definitely saved lots of new owners from buying money pits. Stick with Mercruiser or Volvo with Chevy based powerplants. Check any boat VERY carefully for rot. ANY soft spots are usually indicative of rot below deck in the stringers. I wouldn't worry much about brand with used boats. I'd happy take a well maintained Bayliner over a ragged out Cobalt.

That?s why I came! Thanks for the welcome. I hope to not be one of those guys. I may look at bayliner, but most of the times the pictures say it themselves that the poor boat has had a very hard life.

If something comes up I'm unsure of I may post here as per relative price check. I've noticed nothing around here sells close to NADA. Most boats are about 2-4K higher than what is listed NADA retail.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

I’m also a decent welder so if need be I can modify the front of the trailer if need be. I may even conjure up a removable tongue to get it in there.

No welding necessary! Fulton 34" Bolt-On Fold-Away Hinge Kit - iboats

 

[MarkSee]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

I’m looking to spend approximately 5k. I’m not sure if that will buy me a good boat, but I suppose the price can change to the quality of the boat. I would really like to stay in that area.

If something comes up I'm unsure of I may post here as per relative price check. I've noticed nothing around here sells close to NADA. Most boats are about 2-4K higher than what is listed NADA retail.

If possible lake test, but as I’m going cheaper I’m not sure if boat owners are always willing to test their boats.

I'm great at walking away sellers. I was just unsure on the lake test as when I sold my more expensive motorcycles I never let them test ride them for fear of crashing. I figured a well educated rider could get a 90% assessment on a motorcycle stand or ride beside. I will be sure to lake test then.

You seem to be pretty analytical and logical so here's some advice that has nothing to do with a specific boat or power package but rather based upon you comments.

Now I'm assuming you actually WANT a boat. Do you really WANT a boat? Some folks say they do but really just "might like a boat if the perfect boat at the perfect price just happens to come along". Nothing wrong with that but it helps if you know which camp you fall in.

Some folks get caught up: from wikipedia
The term "analysis paralysis" or "paralysis of analysis" refers to over-analyzing (or over-thinking) a situation, or citing sources, so that a decision or action is never taken, in effect paralyzing the outcome. A decision can be treated as over-complicated, with too many detailed options, so that a choice is never made, rather than try something and change if a major problem arises. A person might be seeking the optimal or "perfect" solution upfront, and fear making any decision which could lead to erroneous results, when on the way to a better solution.

Nothing wrong with doing your homework, trying to become somewhat knowledgeable, etc. but this back to my first question of do you really WANT a boat.

You're area will be different than here in SoCal but $5k does not buy you much in a 17 foot i/o range. Basically buying a boat that will/may get you through this season but may have some underlying issues, wear or be in need of some higher dollars very shortly.

Throw NADA out the window. Supply and demand is what drives prices and if you find boats selling within a couple days higher than NADA, that's what you should expect to pay unless you want junk. Last year out here a lot of boats, including my Maxum, had to be sold for well under NADA; supply and demand.

Lake test/sea trial: are you EXPECTING a free test or are you will to pay some or all the cost for that? If you're expecting a "free" boat test, then you might consider doing, if you find a boat that you've looked at and want to take a test, ask something like:
"When is the next time you'll be at the lake using or showing the boat where I can take a test?"

If you're expecting everyone selling a boat is going to run to the lake, pay fees, use their own fuel, etc. for everyone who shows a little interest, may be a little over-the-top. Imagine you doing that yourself 4 times every Saturday and Sunday and it won't take long before you realize some of these folks are just looking for a free trip on the lake with no real intention of buying.

So though a lake test is ideal and no harm in asking for it, a seller not willing to give out "free" lake tests to everyone who calls does not necessarily mean he is hiding a problem.

With my Maxum, which I only boat in salt water but could take to a lake if they wanted, I told folks calling we could run on a hose if they wanted to hear it run then which marina and when I would be there if they wanted to test. If they wanted a test at any other time, they had to pay the costs. That weeded out the free loaders and turned out the guy buying it never even wanted a water test, bought it only by running it on a hose.

Do some homework, learn a little, look at some boats then if you really WANT a boat, go buy one and enjoy it.
You will, even with brand new boats, have some kind of issues and spend more money for maintenance than we hope to but that's the price of owning a boat and being a BOATER.

Mark

 

[RSVRMAN]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

You seem to be pretty analytical and logical so here's some advice that has nothing to do with a specific boat or power package but rather based upon you comments.

Now I'm assuming you actually WANT a boat. Do you really WANT a boat? Some folks say they do but really just "might like a boat if the perfect boat at the perfect price just happens to come along". Nothing wrong with that but it helps if you know which camp you fall in.

Some folks get caught up: from wikipedia
The term "analysis paralysis" or "paralysis of analysis" refers to over-analyzing (or over-thinking) a situation, or citing sources, so that a decision or action is never taken, in effect paralyzing the outcome. A decision can be treated as over-complicated, with too many detailed options, so that a choice is never made, rather than try something and change if a major problem arises. A person might be seeking the optimal or "perfect" solution upfront, and fear making any decision which could lead to erroneous results, when on the way to a better solution.

Nothing wrong with doing your homework, trying to become somewhat knowledgeable, etc. but this back to my first question of do you really WANT a boat.

You're area will be different than here in SoCal but $5k does not buy you much in a 17 foot i/o range. Basically buying a boat that will/may get you through this season but may have some underlying issues, wear or be in need of some higher dollars very shortly.

Throw NADA out the window. Supply and demand is what drives prices and if you find boats selling within a couple days higher than NADA, that's what you should expect to pay unless you want junk. Last year out here a lot of boats, including my Maxum, had to be sold for well under NADA; supply and demand.

Lake test/sea trial: are you EXPECTING a free test or are you will to pay some or all the cost for that? If you're expecting a "free" boat test, then you might consider doing, if you find a boat that you've looked at and want to take a test, ask something like:
"When is the next time you'll be at the lake using or showing the boat where I can take a test?"

If you're expecting everyone selling a boat is going to run to the lake, pay fees, use their own fuel, etc. for everyone who shows a little interest, may be a little over-the-top. Imagine you doing that yourself 4 times every Saturday and Sunday and it won't take long before you realize some of these folks are just looking for a free trip on the lake with no real intention of buying.

So though a lake test is ideal and no harm in asking for it, a seller not willing to give out "free" lake tests to everyone who calls does not necessarily mean he is hiding a problem.

With my Maxum, which I only boat in salt water but could take to a lake if they wanted, I told folks calling we could run on a hose if they wanted to hear it run then which marina and when I would be there if they wanted to test. If they wanted a test at any other time, they had to pay the costs. That weeded out the free loaders and turned out the guy buying it never even wanted a water test, bought it only by running it on a hose.

Do some homework, learn a little, look at some boats then if you really WANT a boat, go buy one and enjoy it.
You will, even with brand new boats, have some kind of issues and spend more money for maintenance than we hope to but that's the price of owning a boat and being a BOATER.

Mark

I know how that it would seem that I’m being very analytical on the questions. I have had a few terrible buying experiences that I’ve learned from over the years.

A bit of a story many many years ago I bought my first car. This was done prior to me having mechanical experience. I spent 3 times keeping that thing running than I paid for it (Lumina Z34). I also could have walked away from it, but I was 16 and really wanted a sporty car and didn’t know that transmissions shouldn’t shift that hard. (Bad tranny) I sold it lost a ton of money and repeated on the 2nd car with the exact same mistake. After losing literally 10k on my next vehicle I quickly learned to never to do that again.

I became a mechanic while my final years in HS and throughout college until I switched to my current career. I spent almost 2 years researching motorcycles before I bought one and found one that was an excellent deal. Prior to selling it I spent another year researching prior to buying my Aprilia RSV. I did the same with my past sports cars. While all of these have wheels and don’t float the concept was applied. I never have had a major mechanical repair since. (I have since owned almost 10 cars/suvs, 4 motorcycles, 2 snowmobiles) Sure you could call it luck, but at the current odds of me fine tooth combing everything I’m in the black and not in the red. I’ve gotten the best deal on everything since my first two bad purchases and made out like a bandit on selling them used. I do the research and ask expert advice prior to making a purchase because I will never be taken for a sucker again. I’m on iboats after all. (I even researched what boat forum I should join) OCD on research yup.

To move things along I’ve already been pre-approved last weekend by my bank for a loan, however I will still shop around for a better rate. I can live with the rate, but the bank won’t pocket that much change from the loan anyways. I’ve been searching daily on Iowa, North Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin craigslist ads. I’m trying to search all of the major cities. I’m also searching on this website, boat trader, oodle and even google.

If I feel the boat is right I would gladly pay for a lake test. The nice thing here in MN is if you throw a rock you will hit a Lake. It shouldn’t be too big of deal to get the boat to one. I will already be ready with a check as well prior to buying if the seller has the title in hand. If I find a great deal I will take off work early just to be the first one there to snatch it up. I did that with my riding mower that I had in the back of my trailer 45 minutes after it was posted.

I will be a BOATER, but I want to know as much as possible prior to getting one. What is realistic ect. I’ve already started considering a 3.0 and reading further. I read on many arguments 4.3 vs 3.0, but realistically I want a boat and if a good 3.0 comes up I may have to snatch that up.

Thanks again for the response! Good criticism all around Mark.

 

[MarkSee]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

....If I feel the boat is right I would gladly pay for a lake test.........

Now that's the right attitude: be willing to spend a few bucks showing your not a cheapskate wanting a free ride:clap2:

....I will be a BOATER.........

Now that's the right attitude: commit to it and make it happen:clap2:

....but realistically I want a boat and if a good 3.0 comes up I may have to snatch that up.

Now that's the right attitude: become a BOATER now with the closest you can find that's available that fits your desires now. Nothing at all says you first boat with be you last boat or 2nd to last boat. At least you'll be a proud BOATER then we'll see threads from you that start with:

My boat is a ________ and I need help with _________
My engine is a ________ and I need help with _________
My outdrive is a ________ and I need help with __________

:thumb:
Mark

 

[ezmobee]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

If I feel the boat is right I would gladly pay for a lake test.

What you do is just ask that a successful sea trial be a condition of sale. As in, you've got everything pre-agreed upon so that if you're satisfied with the trial, you buy it on the spot. Only someone with something to hide wouldn't agree to that.

 

[eavega]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

A couple of notes (might be a bit of re-hash, but here goes). I have my Stringray 176 SVB in my garage, which measures 21.5 feet from end of the garage door to the back wall. I get the boat into the garage with about 2 inches to spare as long as I crank the jack down low to account for the garage door bracket. I also have to cut the outdrive to one side and trim all the way down (with a piece of cushioning foam around the prop/skeg/AV Plate to protect the outdrive and the wall). I don't have a swing tongue, and would probably benefit from one, as I would gain an additional 12". I'll probably convert when it gets to be a pain to get the back in the garage at the end of the day. Right now it is a two person operation, and requires final positioning by hand due to very tight clearance with the outdrive. Remember that a 17.5 foot boat doesn't include the additional length of the outdrive, which has to be accounted for.

In terms of the water test, the technique that has worked (both as a buyer and a seller) for me is as embozee mentioned making the water trial a condition of final sale. You show up with money in hand, do any inspections you are going to do before said water trial, and if you are satisfied with the visual/mechanical inspection, you stipulate that the sale is agreed contingent upon a satisfactory water trial. If the seller refuses a water trial, adjust your offer accordingly. Buying a boat is part patience in waiting for the right offer to come along, and part aggressiveness in being able to recognize a good boat and being ready to jump on it on a moment's notice.

 

[RotaryRacer]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Getting back to actual boat options.

I didn't see Four Winns on your list. A 1997-2003 16'6" Horizon/Freedom would be a great fit for your constraints. The Four Winns factory trailers all had removeable toungues and/or folding tongues that were designed to get the storage length down to the actual boat LOA...which on paper is 19'5"...so maybe it won't work but you can usually find a way to buy 2 inches.

Look for boats listed as a Horizon QX, Horizon 170, Freedom 170, Horizon 170 LE. The model had several different names over its life span. The key is that it is the 16'6" hull design. In the later years of the model run there was overlap with the newer hull design which is a little longer.

 

[RotaryRacer]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Not sure where in MN you are, but this is worth consideration. The price is HIGH for the model and year.

2003 FourWinns_for sale

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Re: "Lesson #2: If an owner will not consent to an on-water test he is a) hiding something, b) not very motivated to sell, or c) has something to hide."
This statement, from the Department of Redundancy Department, is not necessarily true, especially in a boating community. When you are selling small boats or cheap boats, or boats that are in high demand, the time the seller invests in taking strangers for boat rides is seldom worth it. And this is especially true if the boat isn't kept in the water, ready to go.

The compromise (as is often done around here) is a conditional sale, where you have an agreement to buy UNLESS a water test shows a MATERIAL problem. The test should never be about how the boat handles or suits the buyer's needs; that's homework he does on his own time. And for cheap boats, or newer desirable boats, there's no water test, nor is one needed (example: the $800 tri-hull from the 70's; the 12' jon boat with a 9.9; the 3 year old 19' center console with a 115 outboard; any boston whaler!)

RSVRMAN, it all goes back to the universal answer to boating questions: it depends!

 

[jkust]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Welcome to the club. I'm in Minnesota as well...on which lakes or rivers do you anticipate boating? I've got all kinds of opinions having boated 39 years here and know someone or multiple someones with just about every boat you can dream of. I can give you specific boat opinions all day from first hand experience. I'll just comment on the garage situation since I have the same issue. The size of my third stall garage dictates the maximum size boat I can own. I actually put the boat in the garage through the two stall door and just angle it over. The pain is that I have to remove everything from the garage including all my snowmobiles and cars, bikes, etc but it is simple after a few times since I can't fit my boat through the third stall garage door. My sig boat is 18' 3 inches and can't even fit the swim platform but it is 24' trailer length and the tongue folds for maybe a 2 foot space savings. Good luck with your search and like I said i can give you as many opinions for our MN sized lake boats as you could handle.

 

[RSVRMAN]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Now that's the right attitude: be willing to spend a few bucks showing your not a cheapskate wanting a free ride:clap2:



Now that's the right attitude: commit to it and make it happen:clap2:



Now that's the right attitude: become a BOATER now with the closest you can find that's available that fits your desires now. Nothing at all says you first boat with be you last boat or 2nd to last boat. At least you'll be a proud BOATER then we'll see threads from you that start with:

My boat is a ________ and I need help with _________
My engine is a ________ and I need help with _________
My outdrive is a ________ and I need help with __________

:thumb:
Mark

Thank you! I kick tires, but its more than to just check the air.

 

[RSVRMAN]

Re: New to forum, buying a used boat.

Getting back to actual boat options.

I didn't see Four Winns on your list. A 1997-2003 16'6" Horizon/Freedom would be a great fit for your constraints. The Four Winns factory trailers all had removeable toungues and/or folding tongues that were designed to get the storage length down to the actual boat LOA...which on paper is 19'5"...so maybe it won't work but you can usually find a way to buy 2 inches.

Look for boats listed as a Horizon QX, Horizon 170, Freedom 170, Horizon 170 LE. The model had several different names over its life span. The key is that it is the 16'6" hull design. In the later years of the model run there was overlap with the newer hull design which is a little longer.

Very good point. I forgot to mention Four winns. Ive actually just searched and found a 17' 4.3 in Wisconson.
I like the one you posted, but its about double what I want to pay. It may be a good deal, but as I said earlier I'm a bit new to this sport so not going full lambo just yet.