Next victim 1998, Evinrude 150, Head O rings,J150EXECD

[pastorbud]

Hmmm.. I've been looking at the manual, and it looks like this engine doesn't produce a tach signal unless you have twelve volts on the purple wire going into the rectifier.

 

[oldboat1]

Bumping up against my pay grade here, but has the motor run long enough for you to see if it's charging? Reg./rectifier controls both charge and tach. Also can torch the engine if not sufficiently cooled. I believe Fazt has advised the block has to be half(?) full in order for proper cooling. I'm not sure if running on muffs would do it -- don't think I've seen that discussed.

 

[pastorbud]

I’m pretty far down in the weeds on this one. It’s a project motor that I have taken off a project boat and put on a stand. (while I rebuild the transom.)


when I got i, it ran rough and was hard to start. It had compression problems on cylinders one and three, which are now fixed.

now I’m testing the ignition, and I have a spark on all six cylinders, but it is weak spark.

I don’t know very much more about the history of the motor. I have only run it on muffs, or with the lower unit off and a supply hose to the water inlet, paying close attention to keep RPMs low.

I am starting to think that testing the ignition with the engine on the stand is a bad idea, since I don’t have all of the wiring hooked up.

The current situation is I am trying to hook a tachometer to it to see if the weak spark is because it is not turning over fast enough.

 

[pastorbud]

OK I got just over 300 RPM with the plugs out.

 

[pastorbud]

And KABOOM, got good 1/2” spark on all six now.

 

[pastorbud]

I was able to use a multimeter to determine which pins went to which wires. But the pins were so dirty and corroded, I was getting 10-20 ohms of resistance. I tried to clean them up, but could not get good continuity. I cut off the connector because it was obviously not salvageable. I see them on eBay for $30-40. When I stripped the wires, most of them were blackened.​

But here is the pin pattern, if anybody needs it.

Once I put power on the purple wire, the tach started receiving a signal, and I was able to get a good RPM measurement.​

 

[pastorbud]

Bumping up against my pay grade here, but has the motor run long enough for you to see if it's charging? Reg./rectifier controls both charge and tach. Also can torch the engine if not sufficiently cooled. I believe Fazt has advised the block has to be half(?) full in order for proper cooling. I'm not sure if running on muffs would do it -- don't think I've seen that discussed.

Does that mean when I get it going I need to use a tank instead of muffs?

I’m working on the carbs now (warped bowls ), and hope to start it after that. Vroom vroom!

 

[Chris1956]

You will be able to see it charge while running on a flusher. Measure voltage before starting. Start her up and any voltage above the first measurement means the VR is working. To test that the VR will really put out 35A, is a much more complicated test.

Look around for the carb bowls as the prices can vary. Also, there are carb gasket sets that claim to fit your motor, but do not. So make sure you get the correct ones. I found out the hard way about that.

Crowleymarine usually has accurate part numbers for your motor. You might make sure the replacement carb kits include that part number.

 

[pastorbud]

You will be able to see it charge while running on a flusher. Measure voltage before starting. Start her up and any voltage above the first measurement means the VR is working. To test that the VR will really put out 35A, is a much more complicated test.

Look around for the carb bowls as the prices can vary. Also, there are carb gasket sets that claim to fit your motor, but do not. So make sure you get the correct ones. I found out the hard way about that.

Crowleymarine usually has accurate part numbers for your motor. You might make sure the replacement carb kits include that part number.

Heh. I already got a “bargain” on eBay, so I may have just discovered another very expensive way to save money. I will let you know!

 

[oldboat1]

I have a couple of those "% of charge" gauges that I've used for a number of years. They simply hook up to the battery, and tell you if the battery is being charged. (They are meant to tell you whether a battery is fully charged or not, which is useful in looking for the best shop battery to test with.)

IMO, you are better served by test running the motor in a barrel (think plastic trash can). It's not as good as in the lake, but provides some back pressure needed for testing. I think it's also safer if you have a water cooled rectifier/regulator, but just guessing at that. Maybe muffs keep enough water in the block to keep the unit cool.

 

[pastorbud]

I have a couple of those "% of charge" gauges that I've used for a number of years. They simply hook up to the battery, and tell you if the battery is being charged. (They are meant to tell you whether a battery is fully charged or not, which is useful in looking for the best shop battery to test with.)

IMO, you are better served by test running the motor in a barrel (think plastic trash can). It's not as good as in the lake, but provides some back pressure needed for testing. I think it's also safer if you have a water cooled rectifier/regulator, but just guessing at that. Maybe muffs keep enough water in the block to keep the unit cool.

The prop's off and I have tank that fits, so I'll probably throw the tank under it.

 

[oldboat1]

Put the prop on it, and run it only at idle with the water at least 6 inches above the water pump (more is better -- I usually just put it about half way up the shaft). You need to test it going in and out of gear (prop on) for settings. Leave the hose running in the barrel to make sure the water level stays up if you blow a little out.

 

[pastorbud]

Oops... my tank’s not that deep...guess it’s muffs and take it easy

 

[oldboat1]

mmm, don't what to tell you there. Need a bigger tank or a smaller motor!

 

[pastorbud]

mmm, don't what to tell you there. Need a bigger tank or a smaller motor!

Checking Craigslist

 

[pastorbud]

You will be able to see it charge while running on a flusher. Measure voltage before starting. Start her up and any voltage above the first measurement means the VR is working. To test that the VR will really put out 35A, is a much more complicated test.

Look around for the carb bowls as the prices can vary. Also, there are carb gasket sets that claim to fit your motor, but do not. So make sure you get the correct ones. I found out the hard way about that.

Crowleymarine usually has accurate part numbers for your motor. You might make sure the replacement carb kits include that part number.

I got the carbs on one side cleaned up and reassembled with new float bowl gaskets, after re-surfacing the old bowls with sandpaper on glass.

I tested it by connecting a fuel line and pressurizing with a primer bulb.

Still leaking out of one bowl, but two of them work. Maybe that third bowl was too far gone to re-surface.

 

[Chris1956]

Bud, the idle pickup fuel tube projects into the carb bowl. If you take too much plastic off the carb bowl, that tube could hit the bottom of the carb bowl. I cannot imagine that would be good for the carb or the motor.

 

[pastorbud]

Bud, the idle pickup fuel tube projects into the carb bowl. If you take too much plastic off the carb bowl, that tube could hit the bottom of the carb bowl. I cannot imagine that would be good for the carb or the motor.

I wondered about that

 

[pastorbud]

Bud, the idle pickup fuel tube projects into the carb bowl. If you take too much plastic off the carb bowl, that tube could hit the bottom of the carb bowl. I cannot imagine that would be good for the carb or the motor.

I checked it with a depth gauge and compared my one new float bowl with one of the ones I resurfaced.
Looks like there’s plenty of clearance, but I’m glad you mentioned this so I could check.

 

[pastorbud]

Got a new bowl installed for the one that was leaking. Moving over to starboard side carbs next.

These carbs are easier to work on than I thought. I like the fact that the float bowl can be pulled off without disturbing the rest of the carburetor, and that there are access plates to get to most of the components and clean them.