Re: OK Now do ya wanna know what SEA FOAM is made of???
I don't really want to get into a big discussion with you on this. Suffice it to say that all that excess oil is indeed detrimental to the longevity of O2 sensors and the excess hydrocarbons can cause the Cat. Converter to overheat and initiate cracks of the substrate as well as melting the substrate in extreme instances. If you don't recognize these basic realities, then you need to educate yourself a little more before you initiate such a discussion.
The intentional omission of select parts of my post leads me to believe that you have no answer for those parts, so lets re0iterate.
Not that I believe it, but lets just say that Sea Foam does kill sensors and catalytic converters. Why should someone with an engine without sensors or catalytic converters (the majority of current pleasure boat owners) care if Sea Foam kills them?
Yes....define long term. I regularly store fuel for 3-6 months at a time with no noticeable deterioration. Small (3-5 gal.) quantities as well as large (20-105 gal)
Then you disagree with all of these manufacturers (BTW, several define long term as more than 2 months):
From a random Honda outboard engine manual (model BF200A/BF225A):
Gasoline will oxidize and deteriorate in storage. Old gasoline will cause hard starting, and it leaves gum deposits that clog the fuel system.
Drain the fuel tank into an approved gasoline container, or if you need to store fuel in the fuel tank, you can extend fuel storage life by filling the fuel tank with fresh gasoline and adding a fuel stabilizer that is formulated for that purpose.
From the storage instructions for Mercury Verado 4 cyl outboards (picked at random)
Portable Fuel Tank - Pour the required amount of Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer (follow instructions on container) into fuel tank. Tip fuel tank back and forth to mix stabilizer with the fuel.
Permanently Installed Fuel Tank - Pour the required amount of FuelSystem Treatment and Stabilizer (follow instructions on container) into a separate container and mix with approximately one liter (one quart) of gasoline. Pour this mixture into fuel tank.
From The Mercruiser FAQ section on ethanol blended fuel:
Follow the instructions for normal storage preparation found in the Operation, Maintenance & Warranty manual. When preparing to store a boat for extended periods of two months or more, it is best to completely remove all fuel from the tank. If it is difficult or not possible to remove the fuel, maintaining a full tank of fuel with a fuel stabilizer added to provide fuel stability and corrosion protection is recommended.
From my Arctic Cat Snowmobile maintenance manual (storage section)
Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic Cat Fuel Stabilizer (p/n 0638-165) to th gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
Once again....define long-term storage....I do not fog any of my engines that get put up for 3-6 months at a time. Come to think of it my camaro sits for close to or better than a year at a time and I don't fog that engine or stabilize that fuel system...yet it starts when I need it to.
For this one I am not even going to bother posting excerpts from manuals which I easily could. Again, you obviously know more than the manufacturers. In reality you may have just "got away with it", or not live in a climate that necessitates it. The fact that you don't fog and haven't had any problems does not prove that fogging is not a beneficial thing to do. A true example: When I was dating my wife I once found that there was so little oil in her car that it didn't show on the dip stick. I changed it for her and the car was fine. Obviously this means that maintaining a proper oil level isn't important. Right??
Sure it cleans, but to what ill effect that you don't even have a clue about. Maybe accelerated cylinder bore wear due to the cleaning effects washing the oil off your cylinder walls....maybe accelerated valve stem and guide wear from the oil being washed from where it is needed by the extra detergents being introduced with the incoming air/fuel charge? Who knows? Have you run the stuff in one of two identical engines with identical mileage and then torn them both down at the same time to check for carbon build-up, or lack thereof? Or measured for wear differences? Watched to see how long the sensors and converter lasted in them and compared differences? I highly doubt it...so your opinion is just as subjective as ours. You swear by it...and so do millions of others...and that is just fine. Just don't do it blindly.
This just seems like a feeble attempt to bolster your opinion. Accelerated wear by adding a lubricant to the fuel?? Ill effects from Naphtha, pale oil, and isopropyl alcohol (IPA)?? Naphtha is used in the production of gas, Pale oil is a naphtha based oil, and IPA has been used just about forever as a gas line antifreeze. Nothing there that screams that it will eat a hole though the bottom of the block, burn a hole in a piston crown, or even hurt a gasket. I have used Sea Foam extensively and have never experienced any problem attributable to Sea Foam, only benefits. Have you any proof of the detrimental wear effects that you imply here? I'm guessing no or you would have stated the proof.
It's not Snake oil because it doesn't work......it's snake oil because it hasn't been truly and fully tested...both its positive effects as well as its possible negative side effects. Remember, manufacturers don't get rich by telling you the bad things about their product.
So then you aren't saying it doesn't work, you are just saying that it hasn't been tested to your satisfaction. That's fine. However, "snake oil" refers to something that is totally worthless, not to something simply not proven. I would argue that Sea Foam IS proven at least in some regards. It is certainly proven itself to me.