Outboard will not start/crank?

[daanbc]

It's a 1993 60 HP Evinrude VRO TILLER. I purchased the boat two weeks ago. Motor started and ran fine then. Today was the first chance I had to run the boat. Got it to the ramp put it in the water, and "CLICK" thats all I hear from the primer thing for cold starts. Have two brand new batteries. Motor is getting power, but starter is no clicking or engaging. Checked all switches fuses and gear shift. Even played with shifter while depressing starter button. Nothing! How can I test the starter to see if its the culprit? Thanks.

 

[daanbc]

Ok just checked starter solenoid, I get 13 volts from where the positive battery terminal is. I get nothing from the bottom terminal to the starter, I also get nothing from the two small terminals on the side, one has a yellow wire. So I guess I may have a bad solenoid? Can you check this out? Or just buy a new one?

 

[oldboat1]

may be a bad solenoid, as you say -- would try cleaning and polishing all connectors first, though, starting with the battery.

[edit. And might check polarity, if the batteries were changed out since last run.]

 

[daanbc]

Just wire brushed all connections. I did replace one battery, but I connected it just the way it was on prior batt. Everything else on boat works on either and both batteries, gauges, lights, radio, everything but motor. Re checked all fuses again. Getting power to the solenoid, but nothing from it at any terminal.

 

[oldboat1]

battery switch? might be the key switch.

can try jumping to starter directly from battery (insure starter is operable).

 

[daanbc]

I could, but wouldn't I do that IF I heard a click or was getting power from solenoid? That would suggest that the solenoid was working but starter not. I am NOT getting any power FROM the solenoid. Only to it. But I will check later just to make sure its not the starter. I ordered a solenoid already, just $18.50 with $4.95 shipping, cheap enough.

 

[oldboat1]

yes, if you are sure the clicking you heard was the primer an not the solenoid. Don't use an automobile solenoid, by the way.

 

[daanbc]

I just jumped the starter and the starter works perfectly. SOOO it's either a bad solenoid, OR there is some kind of grounding in the kill switch button on end of tiller. No I ordered the OMC Solenoid from iboats. I was thinking about an auto. Why not? Just so I know.
Yeah the clicking is deff. from primer. I can feel it as it clicks. Nothing fro solenoid on other side.

 

[flyingscott]

Did you check the neutral safety switch that can cause your problem. Did you check for 12 volts at the small posts on the solenoid with the key in the start position

 

[daanbc]

Yes to both, in my first post I mentioned wiggling and moving the shifter as I pressed the starter button. Both small terminals have nothing, removed wires one at a time too. Only power to it, Nothing from any terminal from it.

 

[oldboat1]

Think you're on track, and hope the solenoid gets you out on the water.

Others may correct, but I think the difference between auto and marine is probably the grounding -- diff. in the way they are wired. Like an auto starter, I would be concerned that an auto solenoid wouldn't be ignition protected (have always assumed the marine version is protected).

 

[flyingscott]

Ok I guess I don't understand do you have 12 volts at the small terminal with the key in the start position. Also wiggling the shift lever only tests the switch alignment not the switch itself.

 

[daanbc]

No I have nothing at the small terminals at all. BUT I do not need the key ignition switch to be on to run the motor. With the key off, I still get power to the motor when I turn the battery control switch to BATT. 1 / BATT. 2 / or ALL.

 

[oldboat1]

That's not specifically the starter circuit controlled by the keyswitch, though.

I think Flyingscott's point is good. If the safety switch fails open, the shift lever will not electrically close the switch by engaging it -- current from the keyswitch start position to the solenoid would be blocked (so no current at the switch-to-solenoid-to-starter connection.)

The shift lever may be making proper contact with the safety switch button, but it's a moot point if the switch is electrically stuck open.

So need to test the safety switch (simple continuity test, engaging the button). Can check that in the meantime, or wait to see if the new solenoid is the solution, then check the switch if the starter circuit still not working.

 

[Fed]

You're not supposed to get power out of the 2 small terminals on the starter solenoid, you are supposed to put power to them.

 

[daanbc]

No Title

Correct, I have power to the solenoid "top" terminal. But nothing from "bottom" connected to starter. I press the starter button on tiller and the "primer" clicks but thats it.

For some reason my pics wind up on their sides.

 

[Fed]

When you say the 'primer' clicks do you mean the starter solenoid clicks?

Primer solenoid & starter solenoid are 2 different things.

 

[daanbc]

Correct, Primer clicks. It's on the other side.

 

[Fed]

Did you put your voltmeter across the 2 small starter solenoid terminals to see if you are getting power to them?

 

[flyingscott]

You absolutely need the key/button in the start position to test the solenoid. Here's how the solenoid works the ignition switch is attached to one of the small terminals the other post is grounded somehow. The large posts on the solenoid one will be attached to the battery that will have power to it all the time. The other large post will be attached to the starter. When you turn the key to start 12v goes into the small terminal on the solenoid. This in turn energizes a spring inside the solenoid that pushes a large disc up to connect the 2 large terminals to provide power to the starter. The neutral switch is in the circuit to stop power to the solenoid to prevent it from starting in gear. When it goes bad it can stop the starter from working. If you do not have 12 volts to the small terminal the solenoid will not work. To check that the starter switch/ button has to be engaged for the 12 volts to be at the small studs.