Outboard will not start/crank?

[daanbc]

I checked both small terminals. And got no reading on my meter even with the starter button pushed down and key on. On the small terminals I thought one was ground and the other connected to the kill button on end of tiller. But even if it is the key, I get nothing.

 

[daanbc]

So IF it's the key switch or shifter switch, How do I check these?

Even with the key off, I still have power going to the solenoid. Shouldn't the key stop power to the solenoid if the key controls it?

 

[flyingscott]

disconnect the wires of the neutral safety switch and do a continuity test on it.

 

[daanbc]

Will do tomorrow. THANK YOU gentlemen for ALL your help. It is appreciated. I will look for the neutral safety switch tomorrow and chim back in tomorrow afternoon. Good night?.

 

[daanbc]

Ok, I found this from the past here:

You will need to use a voltmeter to do proper tests.
Read the voltage at the battery, should be 12.5 volts.
Put the black meter lead on a good ground, put the red meter lead on the battery terminal on the solenoid. You should read the same voltage as the battery.
Now put the black lead on the small terminal on the solenoid with the black wire. You should read the same voltage.
Put the black lead back to the ground. Move the red meter lead to the yellow/red wire on the small terminal. No voltage. Now have a helper turn the key to start. You should read the same battery voltage +- about a .5 volt.
Move the red meter lead to the large terminal going to the starter, turn key to start you should have 12+ volts.
Do these tests and post back the voltages.
If you don't have a meter you can pick one up at any hardware store, auto parts etc. An inexpensive one is fine for this.
Thanks


I did everything, BUT When I put my black to good ground and place my red on the yellow wire small terminal, I get NO READING with key on. But when I turn the key on everything else works : gauges, radio, lights , bilge pump, ect. So is it the key switch? I also checked for the safety neutral switch, and can't find anything.

 

[Crosbyman]

IN start mode with the key if you do not see 12v at the selenoid control wire you must work backwards to find it otherwise the selenoid will never activate and route +12v to your starter.

go to the key terminals and look for a 12v on the START post of the key while starting

if you see 12volts on the start post of the key while in START.... the wire must be open between the key and the selenoid control post

you could run a NEW wire (18ga lamp wire) externally to the harness between the key START post and the selenoid control post . if it works it proves the wire is broken/open along the way for whatever reason . find the open

 

[Crosbyman]

on POST 22 please define POWER at the selenoid

you will always have 12volts on the fat 12 volt from the battery.

the question here is why do you NOT see 12volts on the control wire/post while starting with the key in START

BTW....on the control post of the selenoid measuring ohms you should see the internal coil's resistance to ground ...if you see open you are missing a ground referrence for the start key 12v to magnetize and pull the starter current switch closed. you need to find it.... if is open inside then selenoid you need to replace it or...externally the ground path is open with a safety switch

 

[daanbc]

Thanks, yes I was referring to the top terminal that the big positive power wire connects to. I was unaware that this always had current. I "assumed" that once key was off no power would go to solenoid. I will check the gin. switch later today. Have to go with the wife and do the "HONEYDO LIST" .

 

[daanbc]

OK, I am getting power from the key switch terminals all three when the key is turned to the right. When key is turned to the left no power to the yellow wire terminal. When I have the key on to the right i have power going to the yellow wire. BUT NOTHING at the small terminal with the yellow w/ black strip terminal. SO there must be something in between blocking the power. Leaving now.

 

[flyingscott]

Read how I described the solenoid works. You cannot check the small terminals on the solenoid with the key in the on position. The key must be in the START position NOT THE ON position to have power at the small terminal on the solenoid. If you have power to those terminals and the solenoid does not kick in then you have a bad solenoid.

 

[daanbc]

I have no start position. My starter is a button on the tiller. You just place the key to the on position and then press the starter button on tiller.

 

[daanbc]

No Title

 

[daanbc]

I did check to see if i had power while pressing the start button, but got nothing. I will get a 18 gauge wire and jump like you said from switch terminal to solenoid terminal, and if she works, then I have to find why there is no power. If it doesn't then I know its the starter solenoid. But right now I have to believe its the wire noy getting juice.

 

[flyingscott]

do a continuity test on the start switch. I also have another question how many push buttons do you have. Seems odd that the one button controls the starter and the primer

 

[daanbc]

Only one button.

IT'S NOT THE SOLENOID?. I just placed a jumper wire from the terminal on back of switch to the small terminal on solenoid with yellow wire. The motor turned over. I thought I would have to press the starter button to get a response, but as soon as I touched it, it wanted to start.

 

[daanbc]

SOOO I need to find out why this wire is not getting power. Can't be the starter button, because I hear the primer click when I depress it. I know it's getting power from key switch, so it's somewhere in between.

Where is the neutral safety switch located in my motor?

 

[Fed]

What do you normally press or turn to start it?

I think you may have some key button confusion.

 

[Crosbyman]

well seems you are almost in paradise....

find out from whatever you use as a START device (key , button,, switch whatever it is) why it's 12volt on a yellow wire is not reaching the other end of the same yellow wire on the selenoid. If it is interrupted along the way because of a safety feature... (neutral switch inside your shifter)
find out why it is not permitting continuity in the neutral position.

that control wire can also be simply broken in a flexing bend somewhere near the engine. try pushing START and while turning your steringt to close the bend in the cable.

I once had a similar issue inside the fat side connector cable to my 50 hp Merc

 

[daanbc]

I have a key that you turn to the ON position, then you press the starter button on the tiller. There is no steering wheel or remote. My shifter handle is right next to tiller by motor. I believe it may be the neutral safety switch, but can't seem to find it. My next days off are next Monday thru Wedsday, Ill check then.

 

[interalian]

Chiming in late here, but you seem to have a lot of non-OEM wiring on that motor. I'd be looking at all those crimped connections if it were mine.