Yea, basically its a redo. Only you can tell what you have for a substrate now. If it were me, I would knock a few mils of that tractor paint (and flames) off, thicker isn't better on a boat, so taking the top layer off would be best. You should be able to tell if you have uncured paint or bad adhesion while your sanding.
I think you will be glad you sealed it 1st, and because you no longer need the clear system, those funds will cover the epoxy primer system. Since you just painted the boat, you should have a good handle on how much product you need, but ill post a list.
Products you need.
Omni mx190 cleaner (just pick up what they have, a gallon, or even a quart or so should do, it goes a long way)
Omni MTK Acrylic Urethane Single Stage
Omni MH167 fast hardener ( this is kinda temp specific, if its real hot, then the slow one may be better, but I don't know if its hot anywhere
right now
)
Omni MR 185 or 186, 187, 188-(this is definitely temp specific, the temp ranges for each are in the tech sheet)
Omni MP170 epoxy primer which is grey, theres also white or black, but grey is fine for blue paint.
Omni MP175 catalyst
The epoxy primer can be thinned with acetone if needed.
I would start off by using the mx190 before you sand. You can buy a few pack of those rags in a bag from home depot, or use the blue shop paper towels, that don't leave lint. I find the best way to apply it is in a spray bottle, like the orange ones from home depot. You just spray it on like windex, then wipe off with a rag, turning and replacing the rag frequently.
Use whatever paper you need to knock the old finish down some, then resand with 220. blow it off with some air.
Apply the mx190 cleaner again, right before youre ready to prime. At this point you wont be touching the surface with fingers anymore, if you have to, reclean that area.
Then just hit it with one coat of the epoxy primer, and two wet coats of the AU. follow the recoat, sanding, and tape windows in the tech sheets.
