port side exhaust elbow over heating.

[flashback]

Ayuh,.... Did it heat up,..??

At some point, it's been run without water,....
Yer gonna want a can of Quicksilver Power Tune to put a new bellows on the y-pipe,....

No, I didn't run it long enough to get hot cause at that point I wanted to get it apart without burning my lilly white fingers. What should I look for on the riser? I picked a bit of rust out of it.

 

[flashback]

Can you still get metal flappers, I can straighten it out if needed. How can I test the riser for flow, I thought maybe just Hook it to a hose and see where the water comes out..

 

[Bondo]

No, I didn't run it long enough to get hot cause at that point I wanted to get it apart without burning my lilly white fingers. What should I look for on the riser? I picked a bit of rust out of it.

Ayuh,..... On the other end, where the water enters the exhaust flow,....

 

[flashback]

Ayuh,..... On the other end, where the water enters the exhaust flow,....

Thanks for digging into this with me..
Yes the down elbow was already getting warm the riser and manifold still cool, it seems like the water isn't getting into the down elbow or maybe the flapper being stuck was holding the water from getting out.. something bent the flapper rod unless it's supposed to be that way. The flapper it self is not flat but is be bent also like it had a lot of pressure on it..

 

[flashback]

A bit of background, I got the boat last summer and after replacing the rubber bits and gimbal bearing, shift cable I ran it through the break in procedure for a new SEI drive because the PO had it installed but never broke it in or used it. The way the bearing was screaming I'm happy he didn't. Anyway I ran it easy for about 10 hours until time to winterize. During that time it never reached over 150 on the temp per dash gauge. This year I figured it was broken in so wound it up and after about 20 mins I saw it reached about 175. I backed off and idled home. The temp dropped back to 150. I don't know if the gauge is accurate but I know that it was hot..

 

[Scott06]

A bit of background, I got the boat last summer and after replacing the rubber bits and gimbal bearing, shift cable I ran it through the break in procedure for a new SEI drive because the PO had it installed but never broke it in or used it. The way the bearing was screaming I'm happy he didn't. Anyway I ran it easy for about 10 hours until time to winterize. During that time it never reached over 150 on the temp per dash gauge. This year I figured it was broken in so wound it up and after about 20 mins I saw it reached about 175. I backed off and idled home. The temp dropped back to 150. I don't know if the gauge is accurate but I know that it was hot..

If I continue to have issues have heard short life of SEI impellers might be worth swapping impeller for oem merc impeller which will hold up very well

 

[flashback]

A couple of pics of the other end of the riser. It doesn't look good to me. Every thing else is probably about the same, I'm thinking it's time for a new exhaust complete.

 

[Bondo]

A couple of pics of the other end of the riser. It doesn't look good to me. Every thing else is probably about the same, I'm thinking it's time for a new exhaust complete.

Ayuh,..... Stainless Headers,........

 

[dubs283]

A couple of pics of the other end of the riser. It doesn't look good to me. Every thing else is probably about the same, I'm thinking it's time for a new exhaust complete.

You can replace your risers and manifolds if you like but I don't think that is main cause of your issue.

As mentioned, aftermarket stuff is great but it comes with the caveat of not oem which is part of the original design. The sea water pump in the drive most likely is failing, guess based on your info is the pump base/gasket.

Get an oem sea water pump rebuild kit and proper base and gasket. There are two possible base assys available, ensure you get the proper one based on the drive vintage/serial #. Don't forget to pressure test the drive before reinstall

 

[Lou C]

that elbow is just rusted scrap iron. I would use Barr Marine aftermarket on an older boat, they fit and work fine. I have em on mine 5 years still fine even in the salt. BUT....impellers and bellows....OEM first last and always. Even for my Cobra for which you can't just get OEM parts in every store like Merc.

 

[flashback]

It looks like I have a bit of thinking to do. I just spent a couple of hours googling and there are a lot of choices other than cast iron although at my age the iron will probably outlast me. I saw some aluminum with stainless risers that seemed interesting. seems like that might be a good choice for fresh water. The individual stainless headers are a bit pricy but as today is father's day Hmm.

Anyway, Gonna get a beer or two and pull the other side and see how things look there and that will give me some direction ... Happy father's day to all..

 

[flashback]

I jury rigged the garden hose to the riser and screwed it down to a chunk of 2x6 to block off the water passage that goes to the manifold. Turned on the water and it didn't have any water coming out of the exhaust end. It's gotta be really blocked up.

 

[Lou C]

Think you got it

 

[flashback]

I've read some info that suggests that the riser fails more often than the manifolds which could mean that I may be able to replace the risers only.
How could I tell if the manifold is still serviceable? and what's your take on the aluminum manifolds for a fresh water boat. I think the stainless will be out of my price range.

 

[Bondo]

I've read some info that suggests that the riser fails more often than the manifolds which could mean that I may be able to replace the risers only.
How could I tell if the manifold is still serviceable? and what's your take on the aluminum manifolds for a fresh water boat. I think the stainless will be out of my price range.

Ayuh,.... Flush out the ole ones, with air or water, peek in at 'em wherever ya can, 'n then decide,....
The "Usual" failure point is the gasket sealin' surfaces at the manifold/ riser point,....
With a blowgun, 'n short piecea brake line, ya might be able to salvage the risers,....

I'd run aluminum manifolds in freshwater,.....

 

[flashback]

Well I guess I'm gonna get some new risers and hope for the best with the existing manifolds. I can't find a part number on the risers or the rubber bellows that was burnt. the upper bellows has a number on it and is still quite pliable. are they both the same?

The metal gasket for the riser/manifold union is also confusing. I see 2 types,. the one in my system has 2 large openings and 2 small holes while the other has 4 large openings. Could I use the one with 4 large holes. My merc #24 manual says to seal the gasket with loctite 510, is that still the goto?

oh yea, and the flappers I have seen online have some type of plastic bearing that fits into a slot on the y pipe. my y pipe just has 2 holes for the flapper axle to fit into. I still can't figure out what bent the axle and my flapper? could heat and exhaust pressure do that?

 

[flashback]

Ayuh,.... Flush out the ole ones, with air or water, peek in at 'em wherever ya can, 'n then decide,....
The "Usual" failure point is the gasket sealin' surfaces at the manifold/ riser point,....
With a blowgun, 'n short piecea brake line, ya might be able to salvage the risers,....

I'd run aluminum manifolds in freshwater,.....

Are you saying that the riser might have a few days left in it. I will poke around in it. Maybe a bit of muriatic might be a help.. I didn't see any indication of rust in the throat...

 

[tank1949]

1995 searay 220 5.7 alpha1 gen 2 with sei drive..
I'm hoping you folks can help me, like the thread title says the port side elbow gets very hot soon after cranking the engine. The riser and the rest of the exhaust system is still cool to touch but that one elbow will almost burn you. The impeller is new, I pulled the input hose at the thermostat and its pumping plenty of water. I'm lost, I have never had to deal with overheating other than a bad impeller on my other boat.

You can pull riser/elbow hose and attach garden hose to riser fitting. Turn on hose. If water sprays back in your face of blows off hose, there is a good chance riser has blockage. If salt water used boat and riser is older than 4 years, replace them all. If fresh water used and clogged, soak riser in muriatic acid for a day to eat rust. Good luck!

 

[Lou C]

The way to test manifolds is to take it off, prop it up level on a piece of wood and then CAREFULLY (FLAMMABLE) fill with Acetone. The acetone will find cracks or rust through areas easier than water due to less surface tension. Then drain the acetone and save it for parts cleaning, etc. Next you have to make sure that the sealing surface will clean up flat & level and is not pitted. If it is pitted you might have to take it to a machine shop to get it decked. Here in the salt pond they usually replace elbows (risers) every 5-7 years for sure and manifolds, 7-10 depending on use, salinity of water etc.
Next spring I'll put a new set of elbows on mine if the manifolds pass those tests.

 

[flashback]

I didn't have any luck clearing the crud out of the old elbow so I went to a merc shop and got a new elbow, shutters, exhaust hoses and gasket. I still need to find a brass fitting for the elbow hose as the old one would not come out of the elbow after 27 years... And as usual nobody has any loctite 510 around here for the elbow/manifold joint. Can I install the gasket dry? or is there a substitute? The merc manual says to use the loctite 510 but the manual (#24) I'm using has a date of 1999.