port side exhaust elbow over heating.

[Lou C]

I have used Permatex Aviation you can get it at auto parts stores. Make sure that the sealing surface of the manifold is really cleaned up flat & level, you can do it with a mill bastard file or a belt sander. Then lay a straight edge across the top & see if a .003” feeler gauge fits in anywhere. It should not.

 

[flashback]

Thanks! I can do the file procedure, was going to wrap a sheet of 220 around a piece of hardwood flooring but I think the file is better..the new elbow has paint on the flange surface which I probably should sand off as well. I can probably find the hose fitting at a plumbing shop.

 

[Bondo]

I have used Permatex Aviation you can get it at auto parts stores. Make sure that the sealing surface of the manifold is really cleaned up flat & level, you can do it with a mill bastard file or a belt sander. Then lay a straight edge across the top & see if a .003” feeler gauge fits in anywhere. It should not.

Ayuh,..... A coatin' of #3, aka: perfect seal, does wonders at slowin' the rust, that's gonna happen,....

 

[flashback]

Ayuh,..... A coatin' of #3, aka: perfect seal, does wonders at slowin' the rust, that's gonna happen,....

Well I have some of that leftover from the lower shift cable installation last fall..so I'm good. If this repair is successful I'll do the other side this fall. If not then I'll be back.... LOL

 

[Lou C]

Keep in mind that it is a pressure balance system, water takes the path of least resistance. Sooo....if that other one starts to clog, all the water will got out the one you're fixin' now, and that one will get a lot hotter. Just monitor it but might want to do both and be done with it. Just remember we salt water guys get to do this, every 5-7 years or ELSE , water in a cyl, rusted cyl walls and exhaust valves etc. Mine is on exhaust system #4, the original batwings, 2 replacment batwings, and now the center riser exhaust. But, never had a failure due to bad exhaust.

 

[flashback]

The shutters are totally different from what I took out. They're rubber but I believe they'll fit ok. Merc's mini instructions said they will..rest assured I'll let you know one way or the other!
Thanks to all of you and have a great holiday!

 

[flashback]

Keep in mind that it is a pressure balance system, water takes the path of least resistance. Sooo....if that other one starts to clog, all the water will got out the one you're fixin' now, and that one will get a lot hotter. Just monitor it but might want to do both and be done with it. Just remember we salt water guys get to do this, every 5-7 years or ELSE , water in a cyl, rusted cyl walls and exhaust valves etc. Mine is on exhaust system #4, the original batwings, 2 replacment batwings, and now the center riser exhaust. But, never had a failure due to bad exhaust.

I have an extra elbow gasket just for that situation. And I got a infrared thermometer as well, now I just need to figure out how it works..I will keep close watch on the temp differential when I get it running. The engine runs good and the last thing I want to do is fry it..

 

[flashback]

Had some decent weather and got the bits back on the engine today and cranked her up, ran it up to temp, manifold, elbow and down ell were just warm to touch not hot. but like Lou C mentioned the starboard down ell got a bit hotter so that's something to watch for sure.. I also found a small crack in the fresh water hose going from the steering cooler into the thermostat housing that was weeping so I didn't take her out for fear that it might break. The new shutter is a completely different design made of rubber and plastic but it fit and I can hear it fluttering when at idle so I guess that's an improvement but the old metal one seems a more simple and durable design but maybe not as efficient at blocking back wash..

I was hoping to use the dang thing a little this summer but it is what it is!

Can I use hose from the auto parts store or are the pre-formed the only option?

 

[Scott06]

Can I use hose from the auto parts store or are the pre-formed the only option?

I used universal fit heater hose for my thermostat to riser hoses vs preformed ones, so no issue as long as you can make it fit and get the right diameter

 

[flashback]

Thanks, that's what I hope to do as there are so many versions I wouldn't know which to get. I just need to get from point A to B. It won't be as pretty but then neither am I. LOL

 

[flashback]

I put a patch on the intake hose and took the boat out for a short run to see how things were, I ran at 3500 on plane for about 15 minutes then checked the temp, yep, got a infrared thermometer... the new elbow was about 120f the down pipe about 160f. The other side was about 40f hotter. So it is going to be changed out along with the rest of the rubber bits..

I'm happy
Thank you all. L

 

[flashback]

I pulled the starboard elbow today instead of waiting and I'm glad I did. It's worse than the other was.

 

[Lou C]

Glad you caught that!

 

[flashback]

Glad you caught that!

Yep between your warning and my curiosity I'm glad I didn't wait until winter. This side had no shutters in it. When I changed bellows in the drive last year I didn't see anything in the exhaust port but didn't really look for anything either. Hard to know what happened in the past, they may have been gone for years.

 

[tank1949]

I pulled the starboard elbow today instead of waiting and I'm glad I did. It's worse than the other was.

Not clear in all the post if motor is saltwater cooled. If original risers and exhaust manifolds, replace. They are way too old. At least I'd pull all exhaust manifolds and risers, soak in muriatic acid and acetone test them. Remember that the inside of your block may be just as rusted. 1995 is a long time ago.

 

[flashback]

Not clear in all the post if motor is saltwater cooled. If original risers and exhaust manifolds, replace. They are way too old. At least I'd pull all exhaust manifolds and risers, soak in muriatic acid and acetone test them. Remember that the inside of your block may be just as rusted. 1995 is a long time ago.

Yep I hear you. Time has snuck up on me as well, this boat has been in fresh water for the last 10 years as far as I know, before that I don't. I'm just gonna do my best to keep it going, when it becomes too much I will let you have it! LOL. and get myself a small one.

 

[flashback]

I just finished installing a new elbow, I did find the shutter down in the Y pipe with the help of a shop vac but not the hinge pin. I'll take the exhaust bellows off but don't really expect to find it. No way of knowing how long ago it dislocated so if I don't find it there I'll get on and hope it doesn't come back to bite me...

 

[Lou C]

Might have to pull the drive to find it could be in the exhaust housing or even inside the exhaust pssssge in the drive.

 

[flashback]

Might have to pull the drive to find it could be in the exhaust housing or even inside the exhaust pssssge in the drive.

If it did make it into the drive is there anything it could damage? I have a nice few months coming up and would like to use the boat a bit. I don't mind pulling the drive but being that the boat lives in a lift the biggest hassle for me is getting to the ramp 10 miles away,on the trailer , and back again. I don't really have any flat ground to park it.
I pulled my old boat in the early winter, parked it in the street, did what I needed and then it went back to the lift at which time I winterize..

That said, I love where I live!

 

[tank1949]

I just finished installing a new elbow, I did find the shutter down in the Y pipe with the help of a shop vac but not the hinge pin. I'll take the exhaust bellows off but don't really expect to find it. No way of knowing how long ago it dislocated so if I don't find it there I'll get on and hope it doesn't come back to bite me...

with friend's help, raise drive, remove drive exhaust bellows. insert shop vac hose via top of y pipe. If you see shop hose, I would not worry. Mt 2 cents...