Problems with my '57 Lark and now my 58' Johnson

Bigkat650

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Hey guys, happy weekend!

On this Saturday, I worked on getting my new-to-me Evinrude Lark up and running. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out and replaced a few seals... also checked the impeller. Put it all back together, and with some new gas mixed about 30-1 and a little persuasion (notice the can of starting fluid), I eventually got it running--and running well!

(Ignore the finger lol)


For about 10 minutes, it went from not firing at all, to running for a couple seconds on almost nothing but starter fluid. Once I worked the old gas out of it, and got the new good stuff into the cylenders, it ran for about 5 seconds and died. Then it ran maybe 10 seconds, coughed and sputtered and died. I restarted it and it would run about twice as long, and cough out again. Finally it was warmed up enough to start and stay running with the choke closed. From that point on, it ran great. I stopped it several times; restarted it; and let it run for a while. Let it idle down to a nice purr, revved it up--it was working great.

That is, until I tried putting it in gear. I shifted it into forward, and nothing. So I tried shifting it in reverse, and reverse worked perfectly. I shifted back to where neutral should be--and I notices some ticking in the lower unit(sounded like it was half way between neutral and reverse) I shifted into the forward gear, and it acted like neutral. Now, I know the forward gear worked before I put it in the test barrel, as once in the forward gear, I could turn the propeller, and it would crank the motor over--telling me it was in gear.

I'm hoping that its only from when I took the lower unit off to check the impeller, that I did not have the shifting rod positioned correctly when I tightened down the bolt that connected the linkage. I believe I was in neutral when I tightened down that bolt. Should I have been in a gear instead? I plan on trouble shooting tomorrow, I just hope its nothing major.
 

64osby

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

The connection at the shift link connection only goes in one way, your either in or out. I have had to use needle nose vise grips to get a couple rods to go in.

If you are in, you might be able to adjust the shift lever to move further but it sounds like you may have other issues.
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

I know it only goes in 1 way, what I'm hoping happened is that I just didn't insert the linkage rod into the clamp far enough before I tightened it down. If it's not that--i'm not sure where to go next. Unfortunately I have a couple other projects on the 'honey-do' list that have to take priority today... but I'm going to try and reclamp the linkage at some point. As for the needle nose--I tried that, but unfortunately the only ones I have are ever so slightly too wide... hopefully I find an excuse to make a visit to the hardware store today.
 

oldybutagoody

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

That's exactly what you did (or should I say, didn't) do. The lower part of the shift rod is not in the shift rod clamp. You can push down making it go into reverse, but when you shift into forward, the shift rod goes up, and since the lower rod isn't clamped, it can't shift to forward. Happened to me years ago. Make sure you remove the lower bolt of the clamp completely, then use a needle nose pliers to work the lower rod up into the clamp, then insert the bolt. Don't strip it, the clamp is soft brass. It's an easy fix but you really do need the needle nose pliers.
Your hard starting issues should be cured with an ignition tune up (make sure it doesn't have old cracked coils) and rebuild the carb. Maybe $30-40 bucks in parts if you're lucky and don't have to replace the coils. If it does need coils, they're about $17 a piece and you'll need two. I'm assuming since you had the lower unit off that you've already changed the water pump impeller. If not, DO. Another $15. Less than a $100 for a 35 hp motor ain't bad.
I like your boat.
I know it only goes in 1 way, what I'm hoping happened is that I just didn't insert the linkage rod into the clamp far enough before I tightened it down. If it's not that--i'm not sure where to go next. Unfortunately I have a couple other projects on the 'honey-do' list that have to take priority today... but I'm going to try and reclamp the linkage at some point. As for the needle nose--I tried that, but unfortunately the only ones I have are ever so slightly too wide... hopefully I find an excuse to make a visit to the hardware store today.
 

Mas

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1,656
Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

(notice the can of starting fluid),

Avoid that stuff at all costs.

Yup...remove the bolt completely before inserting the shift rod...otherwise the rod will not insert fully.

Mas
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Avoid that stuff at all costs.

Yup...remove the bolt completely before inserting the shift rod...otherwise the rod will not insert fully.

Mas

Yea believe me, I hated using the starter fluid, and now that I got it started once, i don't think I will have to use it again.

Not fully removing the bolt may have been my problem. After work today I'm going to take a few minutes and reconnect it up. I hope that is all it is because the motor ran very well otherwise.
 

HighTrim

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

That is definatley your issue.

Get one of your wifes old spray bottles, and put pre mixed fuel in it to use as starting fluid.

Its time to pull the flywheel as well.
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

That is definatley your issue.

Get one of your wifes old spray bottles, and put pre mixed fuel in it to use as starting fluid.

Its time to pull the flywheel as well.

After I got into the motor, i realized that both the carb and the impeller had been recently services. Although I did replace the existing impeller and seals on the carb (as well as some light cleaning), they we're both serviceable in the condition they were in--so I kept the impeller and seals as spares for a 'just in case' scenario.

I did attempt to pull the fly wheel, but I failed... I got the recoil housing off no problem, then removed the large nut on the top center of the fly wheel. That was as far as I could get. I aggressively tapped on the threaded pole to help free up the fly wheel, and nothing. I aggressively tapped on the underside of the fly wheel to pop it up, it wouldn't budge. I sprayed WD-40 on the threaded pole and under the fly wheel, and started the process all over--still nothing. I went back the next day to try and free it up--hoping the WD-40 would have penetrated better, and nothing. So, I did what I do best when I get stuck--I got on here to research if I was doing it wrong, and I read several post about a 'fly-wheel puller'? I wasnt sure what that was, and honestly I had success in the past on smaller motors just carefully using a hammer. At that point I figured I would just move on, and if it was an issue down the road, I would re-visit the situation. Is there something I was missing to remove the fly wheel? I hate to say i'm playing the odds that the coils were recently changed, but that's honestly how I was currently handling it based on the other parts being recently serviced. I would certainly do the work to at least check them if I could pull the fly wheel.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Hi bigkat. You have to use a flywheel puller, there really isn't another way on these larger motors. Use the pics in the link below as a guide. Be sure you get GRADE 8 bolts as the ones that come with the puller are not strong enough for the job. Also, loosely replace the flywheel nut tor prevent the flywheel from flying away when it comes free. They can be stubborn, so it may take a few days of waiting for it to come free. It will probably be pretty loud. My old 33 hp sounded like a gunshot when the flywheel finally popped loose after god knows how long. I swore I broke something, but all was well. You can get a good puller for $15 at the auto store and GRADE 8 bolts and washers from lowes/HD. (1/4" x 20 x 3") should be the right size. Thankfully, friction is the only thing that holds the flywheel in place, so it should come off...eventually. Just be patient and persistent. Good luck. Holler if you get (un)stuck.

flywheel puller.jpgflywheel puller.jpg

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

I havent yet met a flywheel that did not come off with the puller alone. I dont like heat. I do add an extension to my wrench to give me more pulling power to really crank down on the puller.

By the way, NEVER hit the flywheel with a hammer like you did. Never hit the crank either without pulling up on the flywheel first. Tighten down the puller, pull up on the flywheel, then rap the bolt. She will pop.

You can also just remove the port window on the flywheel to see what is going on with your ignition system. 3 screws after you remove the recoil.
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

I havent yet met a flywheel that did not come off with the puller alone. I dont like heat. I do add an extension to my wrench to give me more pulling power to really crank down on the puller.

By the way, NEVER hit the flywheel with a hammer like you did. Never hit the crank either without pulling up on the flywheel first. Tighten down the puller, pull up on the flywheel, then rap the bolt. She will pop.

You can also just remove the port window on the flywheel to see what is going on with your ignition system. 3 screws after you remove the recoil.


I didn't hit it... I 'aggressively tapped' it! Yeah I was channeling my inner Macgyver on that one (or maybe it was my inner Macgruber... i'm not really sure) Once it didnt budge, I wasn't too forceful and knew enough to shut it down before I damaged my hammer. :facepalm:



I think i'm going to let it be for now, and if I have any troubles down the road--it will be the first thing I check. I just need to get my linkage connected correctly, as I thought I had it last night, but it still was still slightly touching the reverse gear when in neutral, so I still don't have it lined up right yet.
 

oldybutagoody

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

I didn't hit it... I 'aggressively tapped' it! Yeah I was channeling my inner Macgyver on that one (or maybe it was my inner Macgruber... i'm not really sure) Once it didnt budge, I wasn't too forceful and knew enough to shut it down before I damaged my hammer. :facepalm:



I think i'm going to let it be for now, and if I have any troubles down the road--it will be the first thing I check. I just need to get my linkage connected correctly, as I thought I had it last night, but it still was still slightly touching the reverse gear when in neutral, so I still don't have it lined up right yet.

As High Trim said, you should at least remove the inspection cover to see if your coils are cracked. If they are original, it a 100% guarantee that your coils are shot. There's a cover on top the flywheel that you can remove to have a look inside. Do that. If your coils aren't cracked and look relatively new then you might be OK but if they are cracked you have to change them. Getting the flywheel off is sometimes a battle but they do come off with the puller and a bit of patience. Loosen the nut, but don't remove it, put the puller on, torque it down. lift up on the flywheel as you rap on the top of the puller. Tighten a bit more, rap a bit more, tighten a bit more, rap a bit and it WILL pop. As previously stated, use grade 8 bolts with the puller. The hardest part is keeping the flywheel from moving as you tighten the puller. A second set of strong hands helps. I really wouldn't skip the ignition. It's probably the most important thing you can do to get a reliable engine. That and cleaning/rebuilding the carb.
 

oldybutagoody

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

I didn't hit it... I 'aggressively tapped' it! Yeah I was channeling my inner Macgyver on that one (or maybe it was my inner Macgruber... i'm not really sure) Once it didnt budge, I wasn't too forceful and knew enough to shut it down before I damaged my hammer. :facepalm:



I think i'm going to let it be for now, and if I have any troubles down the road--it will be the first thing I check. I just need to get my linkage connected correctly, as I thought I had it last night, but it still was still slightly touching the reverse gear when in neutral, so I still don't have it lined up right yet.

As High Trim said, you should at least remove the inspection cover to see if your coils are cracked. If they are original, it a 100% guarantee that your coils are shot. There's a cover on top the flywheel that you can remove to have a look inside. Do that. If your coils aren't cracked and look relatively new then you might be OK but if they are cracked you have to change them. Getting the flywheel off is sometimes a battle but they do come off with the puller and a bit of patience. Loosen the nut, but don't remove it, put the puller on, torque it down. lift up on the flywheel as you rap on the top of the puller. Tighten a bit more, rap a bit more, tighten a bit more, rap a bit and it WILL pop. As previously stated, use grade 8 bolts with the puller. The hardest part is keeping the flywheel from moving as you tighten the puller. A second set of strong hands helps. I really wouldn't skip the ignition. It's probably the most important thing you can do to get a reliable engine. That and cleaning/rebuilding the carb.

Sorry for the double post. Not sure what happened.
 

64osby

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

I just need to get my linkage connected correctly, as I thought I had it last night, but it still was still slightly touching the reverse gear when in neutral, so I still don't have it lined up right yet.

On my 10 and 18 both 57's there is a bolt and nut that allows the shift handle to be adjusted, loosen and pull it forward X amount. As long as your rod connector is in correctly this will pull up the shift rod.
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

On my 10 and 18 both 57's there is a bolt and nut that allows the shift handle to be adjusted, loosen and pull it forward X amount. As long as your rod connector is in correctly this will pull up the shift rod.

hmm I'll have to take a peak at that tonight. Thank You
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

hmm I'll have to take a peak at that tonight. Thank You

OK well I found the adjustment, and tried moving it forward, and backwards... By moving that all the way back, it then would run in reverse while in neutral. So I tried moving it all the way the other direction, and all that did was cause the motor to sputter and sound like it was trying to go into gear. Its hard to explain, but needless to say--I still never got it to go into drive.


I was wondering, could the prop have anything to do with it? Say perhaps if I didn't tighten the prop all the way down, would that keep it from going into the forward gear? I thought I had it snug before I put the cotter pin back in, but I certainly did not over tighten it. Is there any chance this could be related? I have the motor in the bucket now, and its a bit of a chore to pull the motor out and check this, but if it could be related, I will check it out. If not, I need to move onto my next option.

I do have a spare 58 Johnson I can pull parts from, so if I need a part, I probably have it... Any thoughts? I wanted to get this out on the water tomorrow.
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

OK well, I switched to a new prop and waiting for the drum to fill. The more I look at it, the more I doubt this is the problem, I believe it is internal. I have eliminated the linkage arm, as I believe I have that seated correctly. I have eliminated the shift lever, as I have adjusted it all I can.

Now, the guy who I bought this from said he ran it into the bottom of the river. The prop was in pretty rough shape, which is why I just ordered a replacement in the mail. Any idea of what could be damaged internally that would only allow it to shift into reverse but not forward?
 

oldybutagoody

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Sounds to me like the coupler of the shift shaft is not engaged. Remove the cover that lets you access the shift shaft coupler (1" x 2" plate with two screws half way up the leg of the lower unit on the PORT side) You'll see a brass coupler that holds the two halves of the shift rod together. Remove the lower bolt COMPLETELY, use a hefty needle nose pliars to lift the lower half of the shift rod up into the coupler, put in the bolt and tighten it. Not too tight, it's soft brass. Right now, when you sift into reverse, it pushes down on the shaft which makes it go into reverse but when you lift up, the coupler is not connected properly so the lever moves and the top half of the shift rod moves, but the bottom half of the shift rod doesn't move with it because it's not connected. That coupler is there so you can remove the lower unit.
OK well, I switched to a new prop and waiting for the drum to fill. The more I look at it, the more I doubt this is the problem, I believe it is internal. I have eliminated the linkage arm, as I believe I have that seated correctly. I have eliminated the shift lever, as I have adjusted it all I can.

Now, the guy who I bought this from said he ran it into the bottom of the river. The prop was in pretty rough shape, which is why I just ordered a replacement in the mail. Any idea of what could be damaged internally that would only allow it to shift into reverse but not forward?
 

Bigkat650

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Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Re: Resurrecting a 1957 Evinrude Lark (video). Need help shifting to forward

Sounds to me like the coupler of the shift shaft is not engaged. Remove the cover that lets you access the shift shaft coupler (1" x 2" plate with two screws half way up the leg of the lower unit on the starboard side) You'll see a brass coupler that holds the two halves of the shift rod together. Remove the lower bolt COMPLETELY, use a hefty needle nose pliars to lift the lower half of the shift rod up into the coupler, put in the bolt and tighten it. Not too tight, it's soft brass. Right now, when you sift into reverse, it pushes down on the shaft which makes it go into reverse but when you lift up, the coupler is not connected properly so the lever moves and the top half of the shift rod moves, but the bottom half of the shift rod doesn't move with it because it's not connected. That coupler is there so you can remove the lower unit.

Yea I disconnected that and reconnected it a couple times, but still no luck. I'm hoping I just missed something when connecting it up... It is pulling the linkage up when shifted into forward, its almost like its just not pulling far enough up. I dont know... I got frustrated with it and just swapped out the motor to my '58 Johnson 35hp. After a little tinkering, I got that one running well and it shifts nicely so that's gonna be my motor for this weekend. The lark runs a little smoother at lower RPM's then the Johnson, and the electric start is really nice, but having a forward gear trumps electric start :D. Anyways, The Johnson looks like it will get me on the water this weekend, so right now, that's the motor of choice... I'll keep working on the evinrude later
 
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