Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

[csherrill2]

I have a mercury 4.3 LX GEN+ with a Mercury Stern Drive. Drive serial number is 0k063144. Everything fits snugly on a 97 bayliner capri 2052 cuddy. Runs good, only issues I am concerned with right now is my lower unit is getting water in the oil and I cannot find a suitable repair/service manual for the repairs. I DO NOT know all the places water can intrude in, and would like a simple breakdown of everything on it so I know what to look for while tearing it down. second issue if anyone can help me is am I supposed to have water coming out of the center of my propeller or is it supposed to be exhaust only? I have replaced seals on the exhaust manifold from the riser application all the way to the elbow. Any information on this would be lovely. In the meantime of waiting for a reply I will be draining the watery oil out of my lower unit and having a good look-see at it. Thanks IBoaters, everyone here knows how to help a guy out.

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

The "suitable service manual is right here in the "Adults Only" sticky at the top of this forum. It also has info/instructions for how to do the recommended pressure test that will pinpoint your leaky seal(s). Best of luck!

 

[achris]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Drive service manual -> https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...YWRiNy00ODUyLWFmNzgtMTBmMzhlNGY4Mzk3&hl=en_US

Several possible leak points. Starting from the prop and working up....
1. Propshaft seals
2. Bearing carrier 'O' ring
3. Driveshaft seals (under water pump)
4. Shift shaft seal
5. Quad ring between drive halves.
6. Driveshaft seals in top box
7. top box top cover 'O' ring
8. Drain and vent plug gaskets.

You need to drain the drive and pressure test it....

Good luck,

Chris.....

 

[888]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Pull your prop off and check for fishing line wrapped around the shaft and in between seal. Another place it could leak is the oil passage between lower and upper. The O-ring could be dry rotten

 

[csherrill2]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Thanks to all who replied. I have pulled the prop off, looked for fishing line. Looks pretty clean, still has some grease on there which I am surprised to see. I have no pressure testing tools for this and since this is my first boat... ever... I am still skiddish to work on it myself. The local marina is convincing me otherwise at 85 an hour for their knowledge. I have looked at the service manual, and I will say I need some specialty tools in order to continue from where I am. I would love to replace all the seals no matter if they are bad or not, but man. money is tight. otherwise Im not sure where to go until I get the bearing carrier nut tool. other than just blow it up and start from scratch, but dont want to destroy the ol girl so soon. thanks everyone. ill keep posting soon. appreciate the help!!!!

 

[achris]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Before you go pulling things apart, pressure test the drive to know at least which box the leak is in. If it's in the lower, no point pulling the upper apart. Pressure testing is easy, just have a look at the thread on that... oh, here is is -> http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=1573303#post1573303 and here -> http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=524743&p=3556035. One has a nice description of what you need to do, the other has nice pictures of different test gauge setups.

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

My pressure tester cost a whopping twelve bucks to make. (actually tests both pressure and vacuum). Depending on where you find the leak, the fix could be as easy as a shift shaft seal, which is relatively easy to fix and only takes a very inexpensive seal carriage removal tool. If it's a gen II, it's even easier than that! Go for it! We'll help you fix this as efficiently as possible so you can spend the savings on gas to get you to WOT.

 

[csherrill2]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

I am looking at making my own pressure tester, the only thing im wondering is in the other forum post there is the merc gear oil attachment, the one in the picture is made of metal. Can I use a plastic one since thats what I have or do I need to find a metal one? also its a gen+ and it will need a seal carriage removal tool. and i cannot find one thats inexpensive. Would like to find one to borrow and have it ready if it is the shaft seal. It is leaking pretty bad where ever it is coming from is all I know. I changed out the oil last night and dunked it in the river for about a 20 minute ride, and it was super thinned out and impregnated with water when I got back. Also had about 4 gallons of water in the bottom too. which is unusual. ANYWAYS. Thanks for everyones help. I will be posting as soon as I can get some information about what I got. Just wondering if I can use the plastic oil fill adapter for the pressure testing. Thanks everyone!

 

[Fun Times]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

I am looking at making my own pressure tester, the only thing im wondering is in the other forum post there is the merc gear oil attachment, the one in the picture is made of metal. Can I use a plastic one since thats what I have or do I need to find a metal one? Just wondering if I can use the plastic oil fill adapter for the pressure testing. Thanks everyone!

Yes you could use a plastic adapter to make one up, your only going up to 15 psi max.

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

I am looking at making my own pressure tester, the only thing im wondering is in the other forum post there is the merc gear oil attachment, the one in the picture is made of metal. Can I use a plastic one since thats what I have or do I need to find a metal one? also its a gen+ and it will need a seal carriage removal tool. and i cannot find one thats inexpensive. Would like to find one to borrow and have it ready if it is the shaft seal. It is leaking pretty bad where ever it is coming from is all I know. I changed out the oil last night and dunked it in the river for about a 20 minute ride, and it was super thinned out and impregnated with water when I got back. Also had about 4 gallons of water in the bottom too. which is unusual. ANYWAYS. Thanks for everyones help. I will be posting as soon as I can get some information about what I got. Just wondering if I can use the plastic oil fill adapter for the pressure testing. Thanks everyone!

Just curious... what is a Gen+? Is it a gen II? That would be appropriate for a 97 drive. The seal carrier I see for that is 815921A21, shouldn't require a tool (other than the standard wrenches to remove it). http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser14.html#/220
(bushing and seal are sold as an assembly).
For the pressure test, I fashioned my threaded piece from a 3/8-16 bolt and nut. Did take a bit of field machining to remove the bolt head, file the nut smooth where it interfaces the gasket, round off the nut corners, and to drill a hole through the bolt, but I trust it a bit better than the plastic piece, although that should work fine.
KTB

 

[achris]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Just curious... what is a Gen+? Is it a gen II?

KTB,

Gen+ is an engine reference, not a drive. They came after the Gen II engines. Started in 1996 and can be (most easily) identified by the 12 bolt intake (Gen II and earlier had 8 bolts).

HTH

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Always lernin!

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

I am looking at making my own pressure tester, the only thing im wondering is in the other forum post there is the merc gear oil attachment, the one in the picture is made of metal. Can I use a plastic one since thats what I have or do I need to find a metal one? also its a gen+ and it will need a seal carriage removal tool. and i cannot find one thats inexpensive. Would like to find one to borrow and have it ready if it is the shaft seal. It is leaking pretty bad where ever it is coming from is all I know. I changed out the oil last night and dunked it in the river for about a 20 minute ride, and it was super thinned out and impregnated with water when I got back. Also had about 4 gallons of water in the bottom too. which is unusual. ANYWAYS. Thanks for everyones help. I will be posting as soon as I can get some information about what I got. Just wondering if I can use the plastic oil fill adapter for the pressure testing. Thanks everyone!

Starting to sound like a drive bellows issue that may be putting water in both the boat and the OD, or a coincidental shift cable bellows failure...
Chomping at the bit to hear what the outcome of the pressure test is. Have you pulled the drive to inspect the innards of the bellows?

 

[csherrill2]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Performing pressure test right now. Its not holding pressure, after about 20 minutes it dropped 10 psi. So the end result is 5 psi. Pump up the pressure to 15 psi, after 20 minutes its down to 5 psi. I have sprayed soapy soapy water all over the outdrive and the propeller bearing and cannot find a leak anywhere. Any suggestions are appreciated... futher note, I do not want to pull the outdrive since I have nooooo experience with it.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

your gonna have to pull the outdrive... sorry,

Achris has a sweet video on removing the outdrive, think he has it off in about 2-minutes... seriously. If I can find it will post it up, pretty easy, shifter in forward, remove the trim rams off the drive, and pull the 6-nuts holding the drive to the bellhousing.

Dunk the drive when it's off to see where the bubbles are at.

edit: looks like it took him 3-minutes.... Come on Chris! LOL here's the video his is a Gen 2, they are very similar to remove (you won't have the speedometer line attached to the drive like his does)

 

[csherrill2]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

Well i took a few seconds to take a break, smoke a cigarette and take a swig of drink. I also turned the radio down and pumped up the drive again to 15 psi. I started listening and heard a faint hiss. The only place I found it is included in the pictures attached. From the looks of this seal I will have to pull the outdrive anyways but I have no idea what this dang thing is. any information is well appreciated.

 

[achris]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

That's the shift shaft seal. Easy to replace, but you need to split the drive. And you can drop the lower while leaving the upper on the bellhousing. Personally, I'd pull the drive and do all the top end servicing at the same time... And check the engine alignment...

 

[csherrill2]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

achris, sorry for being such a beginner for boats, I loved how you pulled the whole drive in just minutes. I watched it a few times in awe. anyways best way for separating the two pieces? I was told that my drive is a gen+ but the way you describe a gen2 is what i have. But I need the special tool to pull the propeller shaft bearing nut. maybe thats the bravo drive that doesnt need the special wrench?? I am still new please forgive me. Anyways the shaft seal going into the lower unit? hopefully thats the only thing leaking period. BUT ACHRIS you state you would do the top end servicing... how would I service the top end? apparently you know your stuff. AND WILL NOT argue with you. I will follow the best advice given, its a new boat to me, but it is a 1997 year model which was used in the ocean obviously... I am not stupid, someone gives me help i will not turn it down. THANKS TO EVERYONE

 

[achris]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

You have a Gen+ engine and a Gen II drive.

Splitting the drive, (no special tools needed) easy. #1. Drain the oil! If you have already pulled the drive off the bellhousing, then set it on a stand. Remove the anode above the propeller, use a 3/8" drive 1/2" socket on an extension in through the access hole at the end of the drive. Once that's removed, look up into the cavity it exposed, you'll see another screw. Use a 9/16" socket and remove that. Also remove the nut at the very front of the drive (right next the the shift shaft seal you're about to replace) using a 5/8" spanner or socket (your choice). Then, using 2 x 5/8" spanners, remove the 4 nuts and bolts holding the halves together. lift the top half off the bottom... Yes there will be a lot of oil dropping down, that's normal for Gen II drives.

Once you have the drive split, have a look at the shift shaft at the front of the lower half. It's only held in with a couple of small screws (M6). Remove them and CAREFULLY lift the seal holder and the shaft shaft out of the cavity, making note of the direction the shaft is pointing (I always put the drive in forward so I know the shaft faces directly forward for when I refit it). Once that's all out DO NOT move the gear-housing, prop shaft or drive shaft until you get the new seal in and the shift shaft back in place.

Putting the new seal in is the reverse procedure of removing it... This all sounds intimidating, but it's actually quite easy.... I would replace the entire bushing and seal assembly, with new 'O' rings. Part number you need for that is 23-815921A20 (it's only $21)

'Top end service' is mostly just checking stuff, making sure everything is where it should be and nothing obviously wrong. Check the uni-joints for movement and run the gimbal bearing with your fingers to make sure it's still turning smoothly. Squeeze a bit of grease through to it. Check the engine alignment (you will need an alignment tool for that, go to ebay), have a look at the alignment videos in the 'Adults only' Section...

While you have the drive split, might as well service the water pump. As per the manual, and you do need to use the alignment pins to put the water pump housing back on... I know a lot of people don't bother, but they are the ones who come running back here with 'my engine's overheating'.... :facepalm:

Re-assemble the 2 halves (paying attention to the quad seal that seals the oil passage between the 2 halves, right next to the water pump), fill it with Quicksilver High Performance Gear lube (from the bottom up!), slap it all back on the boat with new gaskets and 'O' rings.... happy for another 3 years...

Here's the video of me putting the drive back on -> http://youtu.be/aGVrY4cWiDA

Chris..........
If you don't have the service manual I seriously suggest you download this -> https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...YWRiNy00ODUyLWFmNzgtMTBmMzhlNGY4Mzk3&hl=en_US

 

[achris]

Re: Still confused. Love everyone who helps.

... but it is a 1997 year model which was used in the ocean obviously...

With this being the case, I would also pull the 4 x 3/8" 12 point screws out of the top cover and get the rubber stuffer plug out of there! (Part# 16 on page 3A-6 of the service manual.) Clean all the surfaces and put a new 'O' ring in (part# 25-32546) and use silicone sealer as directed on page 3A-45 of the service manual you just downloaded... It says to use Prefect Seal, I prefer silly sealer, like that blue gasket stuff... Loctite make it...

The reason for ditching that plug it because salt water gets trapped up on top of it and sits in there and corrodes the housing, eventually leading to the edges of the housing corroding through... I know this from personal experience on my own drive. Merc don't even make that horrible bit of rubber anymore.

Chris.......