Stuck again

craig newton

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2019
Messages
66
96 Mercruiser 4.3LX 6cyl 262cid 4bbl alpha one gen two
A week ago I came on asking for help removing a stuck outdrive. You all got me through that but it came out with the gimbal bearing seized to the drive shaft so bad a hammer didn't budge it. A couple days of cutting, grinding, heating and pounding got that off as well. I found a small hole in the exhaust and drive shaft bellows. I got a new gimbal bearing, a kit with all three bellows, gaskets, O-rings, seals and all the special tools I'll need to install it all. I got a few hose clamps and the shift cable off and one of the two hinge pins holding the bell housing on. I used the hinge pin tool and a 3ft breaker bar on the first one. The tool stripped trying to get the second one off. So I got two more and tried again today with the same results.1748049214086.jpeg
To make things worse the inside of the hinge pin is getting smoothed out. Can anyone suggest an alternate method of removing the pin?
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,141
The pin is/has red loctite 271 on so the proper way is adding a good amount of heat to the pin to get it off not too damage the threads in bell housing.

Edit: If maybe the following from Merc service manual number 14 Page 4A-8 and 9 helps any to re-install....
3. Connect U-joint bellows to bell housing as follows: a. Position U-joint bellows on bell housing. Ensure that the bell housing flange rests in the groove at the end of bellows.
b. Lubricate sleeve O.D. with engine cleaner (Quicksilver Power Tune works well and it evaporates quickly) and install sleeve with tool and suitable driving rod.
4. Apply Locquic Primer “T” to internal bell housing threads and external hinge pin threads and allow to dry. Apply Loctite 8831 or 271 to bell housing threads and install hinge pins. Torque hinge pins to 100 lb-ft (136 Nm).
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,820
All good advice above heat first use some penetrating oil over a couple days. Heat apply some oil like Kroil as it cools down.

Also would add some of the cheap hinge pins tools are chit. Might get a better tool
Or I think a big Allen head fits in as well
 

Pmt133

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
768
I flip the tool around and use a good 12 point on the splined side... dad's are from when he went to merch school and are real merc parts... Always did it that way, only a handful of thousands that didn't come apart.
 

craig newton

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2019
Messages
66
I got the tools from different merchants for around $10 ea. They were all from Amazon so unlikely genuine Merc. The last thing I tried was a 6 point torque. Very little meat left to grip inside the pin but I will try again with the opposite side of a new tool with chemicals and applied heat. One of the Napa employees I spoke with last night suggested welding a short sturdy bolt to the inside of the pin and re-try the pry bar. I know a talented welder who may be able to do that but it's outside my comfort zone. It would take some time, a lot of cutting fluid and picking but if it comes down to it I'm sure I could drill it out with very little if any damage to the bell housing.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,696
I've removed several using a Merc tool and never had one even begin to slip. Have had a few tools which should have been rockwell hardened but were not and snapped/stripped. That said I've never done one which was used in salt
 

cyclops222

Commander
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
2,112
Love impact tools set to very low power. Each impact simply crushes any salt or rust to dust in a few seconds. Very effective with low power level of each WACK. Always use the exact same number of points on the wrench.
 
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