Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

[Mark9740]

I need some advice please. Can I expect any surprises or challenges with removing the top of my pump to replace the two wires? As you can see, one is exposed and causing the pump to not work when activated. I want to be aware of any problem with brushes or springs. Thanks!

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

I need some advice please. Can I expect any surprises or challenges with removing the top of my pump to replace the two wires? As you can see, one is exposed and causing the pump to not work when activated. I want to be aware of any problem with brushes or springs. Thanks!

don't replace the wires. You'll never find a new grommet unless you work at an electrical supply house and the brand of cord grips you carry just happen to be a similar size and angle. If you find a properly sized sealing bushing then buy cable to match. get some self-sealing silicone tape and tape it up.

the brushes and springs won't have any problems as long as there is no rust. The motor is of equal quality as an automotive windshield wiper motor except that it is reversible and waterproof. You would need to own your boat for at least a hundred years before you could wear it out. However, if water gets inside then it will break. A healthy trim motor is all about the water seals. Nothing else matters by comparison. So just look for rust. If there is no rust then just put it back together with new upper and lower seals. If the cable HAS to be replaced then crimp and solder splices but do not remove the section that is molded into your grommet.

 

[Mark9740]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

RRitt,
Thanks for the reply. The motor worked fine lying on the shop floor when I touched the two wires to my battery, reversing them to get the up and down action. Now all of the sudden, it won't go up when it's on the boat. I have not yet attached the boat engine to it. In fact, I was trying to raise the cylinder the other day so I could install the pin that attached the motor but nothing seems to make the pump work. I figured the battery was weak so I charged it. I even tried raising it with the battery charger attached to the battery with a little extra juice involved but nothing. Do you think this is the wires or something else I haven't considered? Thanks.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

that might just be a relay. hot wire the motor and see if it starts working. If so then it's relay. That is a great little motor if you keep it sealed. fast and quiet with great bearings. but if you open it up and don't have brand new seals on hand then it's FUBAR city.

 

[Mark9740]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

Hot wiring the motor is all I've been able to do so far. I just ordered the relays and bought a switch to install the system on my boat. Again, it worked fine hotwiring it a couple weeks ago now nothing. All I did was mount it to my boat and now it won't work when hot wired. I don't even have the lift rod (terminology??) installed so it's not lifting the boat motor yet. I'm thinking maybe the wiring is just a bit too worn where it's showing through?? I get some small sparking off the connections to the battery terminal when I touch the wires directly. Is that normal? Thanks for batting this back & forth with me.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

did you remove motor from base? If you did then it might be jammed if the driveshaft key was not lined up prior to tightening screws.

If you did not remove the motor from the base then the motor is bad. It is not possible for the driveshaft slip out unless the motor is lifted 1/4" or more.

 

[Mark9740]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

That's bad news. I never removed the motor from the base. When I first got the trim/tilt unit I tried direct wiring it to my car battery and it worked once and then it stopped. I figured the CCA for my car battery was too low. It sat in my basement over the winter and worked the first time I direct wired it to my boat battery two weeks ago. I tried it several times and it worked great. Is there a way to check the motor with an ohm meter to verify it is shot. If that's the case it probably couldn't hurt to take off the top cover and take a peek at the wires & connections inside the casing. Thanks.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

you may get a temp fix out of it but it sounds like a motor for sure. At least the tempo fix would buy you some time and you could watch out for an affordable US made motor. You can spot the US motors because they are proud of their brand name and put it on a sticker. Arco and sierra are both fine products. The original mercury (parker hannafin) is the best but mucho $$$.

 

[Mark9740]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

RRitt,
I took the motor out of the pump today and found the rotor was a bit stiff. I took an allen wrench and put it into the motor and broke the rotor free. I spins great now but I'm concerned that it could happen again. What do you think? Should I leave it alone, give it a bit of oil and hope for the best or open it up?

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

it's not really rebuildable. make sure the seals are as watertight as you can make them and run it until it dies.

 

[Mark9740]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

Thanks for your help with this. I took a couple pictures this morning. It lloks like it is getting rusty. I'll run it till it stops and then get another one. Thanks.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt Trim Pump Wiring

you may be able to save that motor. the cap is not waterproof so water has gotten into the armature area. take out through bolts, remove armature. get frame down to just metal frame and magnets. brush with ospho or evapo-rust until all the rust is gone. once all the rust is gone brush a light coat of ospho, count to 30, and wipe mostly dry with newspaper. and yes, it is important to use ospho or similar products. it contains conversion coating chemicals that react with top layer of iron to create a non-rusting protection layer. When ospho is done properly you can leave raw metal out in the rain and it won't show rust for a few weeks. let the ospho sit overnight to fully dry. the metal should have a uniform blue-gray appearance. prime and paint. if done fully and properly, that will cure the rust.

polish armature. inspect bronze bearings. if needed polish with dremel and very fine stone. wash all parts thouroughly. apply very thin coat of marine trailer grease to bearing surfaces. Avoid getting grease into brushes. reassemble motor.

apply new seals throughout. If you do not have new then use silicone sealant but do not fully tighten top screws. leave 1/2 turn to go. allow silicone to dry fully then tighten last 1/2 turn.