To the bottom of the Lark

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

You know guys, "electric" doesn't have anything to do with it. However I do not want to turn this re-commissioning into a career. That is why I am asking for and attempting to filter practical advice.

 

[racerone]

I usually say ----" check out the whole motor, top and bottom before spending money on parts "----=-Here we have another example of why.-----No manual needed for me to do an entire overhaul on that motor !

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

I usually say ----" check out the whole motor, top and bottom before spending money on parts "----=-Here we have another example of why.-----No manual needed for me to do an entire overhaul on that motor !

What's that even mean?

 

[F_R]

Easy to work on means different things to different people. Seloc is correct concerning those studs. They can be downright impossible to get apart when used in salt water. And somehow, Seloc discovered how I have gotten more than a few of them apart---with a hacksaw. BTW, the factory manual won't tell you that.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Confirming, 378526 gearcase head assy. If the rubber covering on the shift cable is not all dry-rotted, you got lucky there.

Apparently I did not get lucky after all. Lower unit came off fine. Used silicone oil to slide the case grommet and the inner exhaust plate that the cable is directed through and all went fine. The problem was found out when raising the waterpump housing up while threading the cable through. The cable is hidden with what I assume is a heat proof Nomex type of sheath but where the cable has to make a sharp bend at the exhaust tube the ribbed casing is crumbled and broken. Both wires are exposed for about 1" but intact. Got my thinking cap on. Splice with some high temp cased wire? Don't know how I can leave the unbroken wires intact and still insulate them from each other, feed the whole thing up through the pump housing along with a new heat proof sheath. Hmmm. - Pete

 

[F_R]

Somebody must have found a stash of those cables somewhere because I see they are available again. Certainly not cheap though. Part number 378535. Call iboats sales and see if they have one available through their OEM parts partner.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Disappointing to say the least. Gave that P/N a quick look on ebay and found $130.00, Yikes! I'll get in touch with iBOATS tomorrow. The wires being stainless doesn't help as far as splicing and the rubber insulation with the special ribbing doesn't either. Routing the cable through the exhaust just adds to the "what the hell" factor. And then there's the heat resistant sheathing to consider. That complete deal is a pretty tight pull through the pump housing. Wow! - Pete

 

[jimmbo]

I will assume you mean the upper part of the gearcase when you are saying pump housing. Some soapy water makes it much easier to feed the shift cable thru the passage. It will also help when you feed it thru the fitting on the driveshaft housing

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

I'm talking about the impeller housing. The upper gearcase assembly has not been separated from the lower yet. I used silicone oil on the cable, very slippery stuff, but in that area coming up out of the upper gearcase housing and through the impeller housing the cable has a woven loose fitting heat proof sheath around it presumably to protect it from exhaust heat. The cable complete with the added sheath is all stuffed through the impeller housing making for a very tight and non slippery fit. The rubber cable casing itself has a sharp "set" at this point and is completely hidden by the sheath. The damage was discovered when sliding the impeller housing up the cable for removal. - Pete

 

[jimmbo]

The cable comes thru the passage in the upper gear case, is held in place by a retainer, and then free end is feed up the midsection
There is a hole on the impeller housing between the water tube and the impeller. That hole is for the shift rod on mechanical shift models, not for the electric cable

Edit: Apparently I am mistaken about the routing of the cable.. I guess the hole does double duty.

Is this the hole you are referring to(arrow)?

 

[F_R]

True, that is a snug fit through the pump housing. Easy enough to smooth it out a bit for installation. BTW, see that o-ring around the center of the pump housing? It won't run worth two hoots if you leave that out. And you will go crazy trying to figure out why it won't run right.

 

[racerone]

That cable came thru the pump housing on all the ones I looked at !!

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Holy smokes! Yes, that is the hole I'm referring to. The electric cable AND the protective sheath was stuffed through that hole on my motor. You're telling me that cable is supposed to just come out of the upper gearcase housing, by-pass the impeller housing, and simply make one shallow "S" bend to the outside of the exhaust housing then up the leg. That's HUGE information. Perhaps I can repair this cable after all and once routed correctly, with a new sheath will work fine. As I mentioned earlier the wires themselves are sound so would be a matter keeping them isolated and insulated and waterproof. Thinking cap back on. Thanks, - Pete

 

[F_R]

Cable is supposed to go through the hole in pump housing. But it's your motor, do whatever you want.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Cable is supposed to go through the hole in pump housing. But it's your motor, do whatever you want.

Well, whatever I want is how is how it's supposed to be. Seems like 2 out of 3 agree the wire comes through the pump. So that's where it will go one way or another.

Just read jimmbo's post so now it's unanimous (don't feel bad jimmbo, if nothing else, I'm learning these motors are all about "alternative facts"). F_R, Is the "o" ring you speak of located around the pump seal, and about 1 1/2 " dia? Looks like the driveshaft tunnel bears directly on it.

 

[F_R]

That's the one. If missing, exhaust smoke goes up through the driveshaft tube and comes out a vent hole at the top, and fills the hood with smoke.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

That's the one. If missing, exhaust smoke goes up through the driveshaft tube and comes out a vent hole at the top, and fills the hood with smoke.

Primitive exhaust gas re-circulation. Hate to bore you guys with my trivial progress. My good news to me is the gearcase came of quite easily but it looks like the cable is not designed to ever come out and go back. Look like it's originally installed from the bottom because there seems to be a "mushroom head" stop there to keep it from pull through too much. It can't be pulled back out that way because there's nothing to grip and it can't be pulled up and through because of that mushroom head. If I really reefed on it from the top side I'm pretty sure more of the fragile rubber would just break up.

I'm not seriously there yet but could this motor be converted to mechanical?

 

[F_R]

It is possible to convert, but not practical except to find a whole lower unit and exhaust housing. And lower front cover. And all the shift linkages.

The gearcase has to come apart to get the cable out/in. There are knife connectors where the lower & upper parts of the gearcase meet.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

The gearcase came off with no drama. Pleased to find the two long studs were nice and clean. After slicing off what appears to be heat shrink plastic the knife edge connectors came apart. It's likely I'll be getting a new cable. The fancy ribbed rubber case of the original one is quite brittle and will never withstand pulling it through. I can not really see how to repair it because so much of it is bad. Not wise to take a chance. I don't wan't to think of the consequences if the wires touched and both coils were energized at once. I think I'll be dismantling the gearcase as well, there seems to be a bit more "sparkle" to the oil than I first suspected. What is stainless steel in there? Pretty sure that's what the sheen is made up of. Could be aluminum too I guess, but definitely not cast iron or steel. - Pete

 

[F_R]

So glad it came apart with no grief. You are on the road to recovery now. Yep, energizing both clutches at the same time while running at any significant speed almost always breaks something. Often the drive shaft. Goes to say those clutch springs are stronger than most people think. They were used with way more horsepower than yours. Well ok, yes sometimes they will break before the shaft.

I can't think of any stainless wear parts in there, unless maybe the clutch springs are stainless, not sure about that. The forward coil wire guard is stainless, but nothing moves against it (normally). The bearings are not stainless, but are hard and shiny.