www.perfprotech.com
nah.... the tan wire is standard for the gauge
Ok, my bad,.... tan with a blue stripe,..??
Ok so I must need the other sensor, the one with the cover on it, upon further inspection the actual wire is tan with a blue stripe, someone had spliced in a short extension that was just a blue wire. Any idea which sensor that is? On the diagram both of the #11 sensors look like the bronze style one for the alarm.
Ayuh,..... With the key, On,.... remove either wire, 'n ground it out on the motor,.....
I grounded out both wires but the gauge didn't move and the alarm didn't sound. I traced the wires into the cabin, the tan wire goes to the gauge and the tan/blue wire goes to the alarm. I'm kinda curious though, how does grounding out the wire make the alarm sound? From what I can see the wire goes to the alarm and on the alarm the other wire is a black ground, so how does the alarm get power to sound?
The buzzer has 12v switched power to it. Grounding the wire (or closing the switch on the sensor) completes the circuit. I assume you did theses tests with the ignition on...
I did have ignition switched on, and actually the buzzer does work, I didn't realize there was a 3 second delay before the buzzer sounds, however grounding the tan wire for the gauge still didn't work. Should I be getting 12v from the tan wire to ground? Also, not sure if it matters but when I turn the ignition switch on the temp gauge moves lower by just a hair, then with ignition off it moves back up a hair.
1. Yes, if it's disconnected at the sender
I just took my dash apart and checked voltages, i'm getting 12.4v in from the purp wire but the tan wire was only sending 8.2v out, so I figured the gauge is bad and I just happened to have a brand new temp gauge so I installed that real quick, with the new gauge I'm getting 10.2v out from the tan wire but still not 12+v, and when I ground the tan wire the gauge still isn't maxing out, should I be looking for a ground problem? Even though I'm using the same ground (middle pole on gauge) when measuring voltage from the purple wire in and it works fine.
You should if you're measuring from the gauge side and it's disconnected at the sender. The sender is the resistance
More likely you got rid of all that corrosion so there's less resistance through the circuit now. Are you sure it's reading high, or just higher than before?
To be honest I didn't compare the temp gauge with IR reading at the thermostat when it was "working", but it stayed between 160-180 originally, right now it's going up to 220 on the gauge while the IR is only reading 150-160 at the thermostat.
