Will Gluvit and 3M 5200 or 3M 4200 adhere to each other?

bigesox11

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I wanted to apply gluvit first and then a healthy dose of 3M on top of the gluvit in the bottom of my aluminum deep-v where I have a small leak near the keel. Will gluvit and 3M adhere to each other?
 

Watermann

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Describe your leak in a bit more detail or maybe a pic or two. Is the leak at the keel plate seam? Is there a crack? Loose rivets?

With the gluvit, surface prep is key. It has to be VERY clean, dry and free of any contaminants. The gluvit is runny so if your keel seam is leaking it has to be in a position so that the gluvit moves into the void. What is common with keel leaks is a small crack and a worn down plate so check closely and find the source before trying to repair.
 

ondarvr

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Gluvit is epoxy and 5200 sticks to epoxy very well, it doesn't work the other way around though.
 

bigesox11

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I dont have any loose rivots.and I don't belive there is a crack. I had to beach my boat and then I began to have some water in the boat. I am also replacing my floor and I have access to the inside of my boat. I will have to try to upload pictures. When I gained access to the bottom of my boat, there were some long and small pieces of sealant that must have become loose. I would imagine this is why the boat is leaking a bit. I did remove a small diameter piece of rod also. Was this maybe what goes between where the aluminum comes together to make the "V" or just a random piece of metal?
 

Watermann

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Random metal, I don't know about that. A few pics of the area would be good. Beaching a boat won't cause a leak unless done faster than coasting in from an idle.

Get the decking out, clean and inspect the area, you should be able to see the problem. If not you may have to add some water to see when it drips out from underneath.
 

jbcurt00

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Small diameter rod? About an 1.5-2" 'rod'?

Perhaps the mandrel from a pop rivet?
 

bigesox11

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It definitely wasn't the mandrel from a pop rivet. It was about 4 - 4 1/2 inches long. It was about as thick. I will try to post some pics soon.
 

Woodonglass

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You really need to use Photobucket to post your pics. The Forum is NOT functioning well and posting pics using the forum is just not gunna work!!!
 

bigesox11

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Yeah, I tried attaching pictures and it didn't work. How do you post pics from Photobucket then?
 

Woodonglass

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Bigesox11, the preferred method of posting PB pics is to use the IMG Code. You copy and then Paste it directly into your iBoats post and your pics will appear right here in your post just like this...
 

bigesox11

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Anybody? I was finaly able to get some pictures of the area where I seem to be getting some water.
 

Woodonglass

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I'm not a "Tinner" but it appears to me you need to fill the seams with Gluvit (On the inside) as well as check for any loose rivets and re-buck them.
 

jbcurt00

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Lets start by getting the pix posted:







Is that a weld in the last pix? That seems to be rusting?

The center keel on a tin boat is usually applied after the hull is built. Even though it appears that there is a gap between the forward end of the keel (pix 1 & 4) I don't think that's letting water into the boat. The rivets surrounding the gap, if they are loose maybe, but not the gap in & of itself.

The rest of the pix of the interior of the hull look more like standing water that sat in the boat for a period of time, to me, rather then a leak.
 

bigesox11

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It definitely does take on some water. My boat was always "bone" dry until I beached the boat slowly and where I thought it was safe. I noticed a little separation as the pictures show, so I ran the hose at high pressure and I then found water in the boat. After inspecting from the inside I found those long, loose advhesive pieces pictured and some smaller pieces that are not pictured.
 

jbcurt00

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You might have loosened some rivets, when the gap opened. Hard to be sure w/ the boat assembled. Much easier w/ no deck & no foam.
 

bigesox11

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Would 3M 5200 be recommended on the outside as well where there is a bit of a gap? Would the outside need sanded first due to it being painted? Would the inside of the boat have any type of sealant or primer that the gluvit or 3M would adhere to? Thanks.
 

jbcurt00

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W/out dismantling your boat, I wouldn't know for sure, but I think that keel strip is not supposed to be sealed to the hull. Although the gap from beaching isn't helping it isn't the major problem.

Along that strip that you think now has a larger gap, are there any 1/8" holes drilled in it. Right at the peak of the angle? Look all along the bottom if it, esp from midway & back towards the transom. Starcraft puts weep holes in that keel strip, to let any water that manages to find its way in, can get OUT to prevent the trapped water from freezing & rupturing it or damaging the hull.

W/out access to the inside of the hull you can't re-buck any loose rivets. But you could drill them out, attempt to reduce the small gap you think got opened when you beached it, and re-rivet the keel strip w closed end blind rivets. IMO, applying Gluvit to the gap won't solve the problem. And may cause other problems of trapping water against the aluminum hull. Freezing is only 1 of them. Galvonic corrosion is too.

Find weeping rivets & seams. Check the rivets & any near a weeping seam for loose, damaged or missing rivets. Rebuck or replace suspect rivets. Then re check for leaks. Any seams that still leak might be sealed w 5200/flight FROM THE INSIDE. Once the gluvit is dry, check again for leaks. Applied from the inside, any sealant will be covered & likely not seen. Both can be a mess to work with so on the outside it might show. Gluvit is epoxy based, so it must be covered & protected from UV.

Again, I don't think that particular gap is the problem, but nearby rivets might be. On my phone so I don't know if you mentioned what aluminum boat this is...
 
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