Can't get starboard engine to run after a bunch of work.

[achris]

To get the corrosion protection layer off new points, use newspaper. It's abrasive enough to remove the film, but not the contact surface. NEVER use a file or sandpaper/emery on new points!

Chris....

 

[Scott Danforth]

To get the corrosion protection layer off new points, use newspaper. It's abrasive enough to remove the film, but not the contact surface. NEVER use a file or sandpaper/emery on new points!

Chris....

we will disagree here.

 

[achris]

we will disagree here.

Apparently so. 'Nough said.

 

[kenny nunez]

After you get the engines both running check the dwell again and make sure that the the dwell stays steady, if there is more than 5 degrees deviation the distributors need to be removed and a the upper bushing is worn and have a machine shop add one in the lower housing. This problem also shows if the timing marks are not holding steady. The main cause of a worn distributor on the GM inline engines is the bushing just above the oil pump in the block. Be sure to only use only quality points and condensers, not any of the junk from those big box auto stores, NAPA or genuine GM .
I always rubbed the closed points over the edge of my shirt, never failed me.

 

[ttownthomas]

I decided to start over and run through all steps of a tune up in the FSM. Step 1 was a compression test. I am pleased with the compression results but don't know much about reading spark plugs. Here is a picture of my readings and the plugs:

 

[Scott06]

You are running very rich by the looks of those plugs , could see that fouling to the point you get no spark

 

[alldodge]

If your gauge is accurate, your motor is getting tired, not worn out just tired. Agree your running rich

 

[ttownthomas]

If your gauge is accurate, your motor is getting tired, not worn out just tired. Agree your running rich

Spec is 140 psi per the fsm. I thought an average of around 130 was pretty good

 

[alldodge]

Agree 140, sorry my non-checking the manual again, 140 is good for 165. If you were warmed up then its low but not that bad. If cold they all good

 

[achris]

Ditch those chump plugs. Get some good quality spark plugs in there. NGK or AC Delco...

Yes, running rich, but that can also be a symptom of late timing.

And I agree, those compressions are a little low.

So, get some new spark plugs, install them, get the points dwell (gap) set correctly, and adjust the timing as per spec. THEN deal with the carb and mixtures.

By the way, dwell and gap are very much the same thing, just measured differently. The dwell is the amount of time the points are closed for (measured electrically). You increase the amount of closed time (the dwell) by decreasing the gap.

And this crap about 'set the gap, then set the dwell' just proves how little a few people understand, I mean properly understand, how a Kettering ignition system works. The gap sets the dwell. The dwell is a way to measure the gap using 'average voltage'..

Chris............

 

[Scott Danforth]

And this crap about 'set the gap, then set the dwell' just proves how little a few people understand, I mean properly understand, how a Kettering ignition system works. The gap sets the dwell. The dwell is a way to measure the gap using 'average voltage'...

Chris, I do take offense as I believe this was aimed at me

you are correct, adjusting the gap is the dwell time for the points to be closed to saturate the coil to allow the maximum amount of spark.

since the point contact surface is neither constant or smooth (its two chunks of metal riveted to the points arm), unless perfectly machined and gaped with feeler gauges and verified with a go-no go gauge to make sure you are not slightly open or slightly closed, then yes, verify the dwell with the meter. there is close, and there is precise. the difference in .002" of gap is about 5 degrees of dwell. 5 degrees of dwell is about 2.5 degrees of timing. getting it close means that as the points wear in, you need to re-adjust more often. getting it precise means you dont touch them until the following spring or 15,000 miles later.

the only way to set dwell accurately is to read the meter while cranking the engine over. that trick was taught to me by a grizzled old grey-beard hot-rodder over 45 years ago along with tuning a holley. it was ingrained in my head. file, gap, verify/adjust, timing....

I fully understand how a points system works and have spent many hours at a drag strip adjusting dual breakers. I actually still own my points files and dwell meter. I can also run a sun distributor machine and re-curve a distributor. something that is a lost art.


I also agree that the late timing is causing much of the soot on the champion plugs, and I do agree that champion is not a well made plug

 

[achris]

Chris, I do take offense as I believe this was aimed at me...

Scott, the comment was definitely NOT aimed at you...

PM..

Chris....

 

[alldodge]

Starting to sound like someone hasn't had there nap

Unless your working on an old chevy with a door in the distributor cap and allen head to adjust points, you have to set the points before measuring them

 

[Scott Danforth]

Starting to sound like someone hasn't had there nap

Unless your working on an old chevy with a door in the distributor cap and allen head to adjust points, you have to set the points before measuring them

agreed, however I leave the cap off, rough gap them, and while cranking do the fine tuning. the Chev cap with teh door cam out because the dizzy was under the cowl and you couldnt get a screw driver and your eyeballs in there.

 

[tank1949]

Its the wire it self, same as spark plug wires are made to have so many ohms per foot, the ignition wire is also made with resistance built in. It can be bypassed for testing, but should not be left that way.

If wire does go bad, it can be replaced with a regular wire and add a ballast resistor inline

Or swap coils and distributors??? I had a circuit breaker get internal corrosion and too much resistance for proper Bendix/starter engagement. Ended up eating flywheel ring gear. That old of a boat, I'd check all (if I could) switched/connectors for corrosion. If owner moved stuff around he may have also damaged old wires and they might be leaking. New marine grade wiring and connectors are a must for that old of a boat. I learned my lesson the hard way!

 

[tank1949]

I am restoring a 1972 Bertram 25 with twin Mercruiser 165 L6's. I recently ran all new fuel plumbing from the tank to the engines and removed the mechanical steering and replaced with hydraulic (mostly done). Replaced old trim pumps with alpha pumps and relocated them into a forward area and have removed or repaired a bunch of wiring in the engine compartment and helm area. Here are some pics of the engine and battery wells:

I finally got around to running her again today after all the work got completed and I can't get the Stbd engine to stay running. I was back there and in the helm area monkeying around for about 2 months on and off getting this work done and I am thinking I may have knocked something loose in the electrical system.

The engine turns over and fires when the ignition key is turned to start but seems to be running slightly too high of an rpm but when the key returns to the on position the engine dies right away.

During the survey this engine also had an issue "finding neutral" and I wonder if that and this may be related to the shift interrupt system?

I did check to make sure I have fuel at the carb so it is definitely an electrical related problem...

Any pointers?

Nice and easy to work on. I envy you! I suggest new marine grade wiring and connector for that old of a boat. Trust me! In the meantime, you may want to swap coils if interrupter is OK??? I am not sure if your coils are internal or external resistant? Check code on both to be sure! I also had a distributor rotor become defective years ago. Get ohm meter out. Good luck!

 

[Mikey N.C.]

Is it EST. Ignition ?

 

[Mikey N.C.]

More likely not rite .

 

[alldodge]

Is it EST. Ignition ?

More likely not rite .

Not EST, and could say one thing, posting your way your increasing your post count fast, don't know about accomplishments

 

[ttownthomas]

Nice and easy to work on. I envy you! I suggest new marine grade wiring and connector for that old of a boat. Trust me! In the meantime, you may want to swap coils if interrupter is OK??? I am not sure if your coils are internal or external resistant? Check code on both to be sure! I also had a distributor rotor become defective years ago. Get ohm meter out. Good luck!

Yes. I intend to re-wire everything. By connectors you mean the ring terminals? Or a harness connector? I assume people replace all the harness wiring with new also right? If I replace the harness wiring is there a problem running the wires to a terminal block on the transom? Oh wait. I should make a new thread with this. Back to the tune up.

What do you mean about the coils? Make sure they are marine grade? What about the distributors, are they marine specific?