87 50HP VRO Evinrude - Could this be my problem?

[saltchuckmatt]

No, I have not simutaneously while starting but I will try. I'm usually alone when this happens so I have tried pumping the primer ball then going back to the console and turning the key. It's typically soft (but not collapsed) when I first grab it, and then it gets firm right away. I'll take a look at the spark plugs the next time I can work on it. I assume what I should be seeing is that they are wet, right?

Edit: also I plan to run a test this weekend, disconnect the fuel lines and splice them to a clear line running back to the fuel tank. Disconnect the starter +. Crank and check for air bubbles and decent flow, including the primer circuit when the key is depressed.

Wet or dry would give indications on where to look

I had originally notice that you weren't setting the high idle before starting so possibly a flooding condition or spark is your problem. Spark plugs can tell a story.

 

[racerone]

Take the starter apart for inspection.----Do an ohm test on armature.----Costs you nothing to do this simple work.

 

[FishAtFive]

Take the starter apart for inspection.----Do an ohm test on armature.----Costs you nothing to do this simple work.

Sure I can do that, I have two different manuals to follow for details. So basically you are thinking the starter is not spinning fast enough?

 

[racerone]

That is very possible ----and very easy to check out.----Don't rush out and buy a new one.----Test the one you have.----I install new brushes in these starters.----Got them from a starter alternator place at $6.50 each.

 

[FishAtFive]

How do they look? Seem fine to me. I will say that it is working just fine from an observational standpoint. It spins plenty fast, and when the motor catches it disengages.

 

[racerone]

What is the Ohm reading on armature to ground?-----All those copper segments to the wee stub shaft.

 

[FishAtFive]

What is the Ohm reading on armature to ground?-----All those copper segments to the wee stub shaft.

I'm either not understanding what to test or not using the multimeter right. None of the segments register anything.

 

[racerone]

Your meter is showing infinity.-----Which is the correct value.----Nothing wrong with the starter per your tests.----That now eliminates poor starter performance.----Something that was not known BEFORE the testing.

 

[FishAtFive]

Your meter is showing infinity.-----Which is the correct value.----Nothing wrong with the starter per your tests.----That now eliminates poor starter performance.----Something that was not known BEFORE the testing.

Cool. Scratch that off the list. I also found this gem in the shop manual, not sure where half those things are:

 

[racerone]

Reed valves for each crankcase are found behind the carburetors.

 

[FishAtFive]

Reed valves for each crankcase are found behind the carburetors.

I think I can handle that. Those bolts probably are not seized. Will have to buy a new gasket though.

 

[FishAtFive]

I think I can handle that. Those bolts probably are not seized. Will have to buy a new gasket though.

After doing some research, I should check to see if there is any air and fuel coming back out of the carbs before tearing it apart. I do faintly recall there is.

Is it normal to have any air or fuel coming out?

 

[FishAtFive]

Verified the spark jumps 3/8" so no problem there.
I have nto yet inspected the idle circuit pointed out by Crosbyman.
Inspected the reed valves, a few of them have a very very slight amount of light passing through them. Honestly doesn't seem like the smoking gun but wanted to get your thoughts. Here are some pictures:

 

[roscoe]

Have you opened up the fuel pump and inspected it for crud, or a tear/ hole in the diaphragm?

 

[FishAtFive]

Have you opened up the fuel pump and inspected it for crud, or a tear/ hole in the diaphragm?

Yes it's fine.