I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

redneck joe

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I don't test my stripper I'm just happy they are available...


Guess I missed this being a home grown project. I thought the extension was going to be fabbed from a shop then you bolting on.

I guess I have my winter reading locked up here on this thread.
 

Pmt133

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I don't test my stripper I'm just happy they are available...


Guess I missed this being a home grown project. I thought the extension was going to be fabbed from a shop then you bolting on.

I guess I have my winter reading locked up here on this thread.
When in doubt, always go with the premium stripper.
klean-strip-paint-strippers-removers-gkps300-64_600.jpg
Okay I'm done mudding up the thread now. :p
 

tpenfield

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Budget check . . .

Currently at $4,109 vs. my budget line of $6,000 for the engine removal and extension pod construction. More than I thought, but the bulk of the stuff is purchased.
 

aspeck

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Do you need Joe's Boat Budget spreadsheet? LOL! Then we have to determine what is assigned to safety, what is maintenance, and what is project cost.
 

redneck joe

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Do you need Joe's Boat Budget spreadsheet? LOL! Then we have to determine what is assigned to safety, what is maintenance, and what is project cost.
Taking the wife out for supper can be assigned to client relations if needed to discuss a cost overrun....
 

tpenfield

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My total budget is $84K factoring in getting $20K for the sale of the Mercruiser engines. Ideally, I'd like to get a wee bit more for the engines, but it is hard to tell.
 

Pmt133

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Are you selling the engines yourself or going through a dealer? Even in private market... the older 6.2s seem to go for around 9k in my area. Factoring the drives in and transom assembly I feel 20k is priced on the low side...
 

tpenfield

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I was quoted $10K as a 'trade-in', so I'll be selling myself. I hope to get more than the $20K, but that is what budgets are for (less optimistic).
 

tpenfield

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The Mercruiser engines new are around $23K each, new SeaCore outdrives are around $10K each, the transom assemblies are around $5K each, the DTS & Axius is hard to say, but figure $10-15K.

So all new would be around $90K . . . 20% of new price would be $18K . . . 30% would be $27K. So, I think that establishes the used price range.
 

tpenfield

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Today I played trailer moving games . . . I want to see if I can get a decent balance point & manageable tongue weight.
IMG_8733.JPG
The boat was about 6" off-center (to port) when we pulled the boat out of the water. So that was the first order of business. Once I got the boat lifted up in the air, I used my chain hoist to 'pull' the trailer to port . . . that was fun.

Then I 'very carefully' moved the trailer forward . . . about 20". So, I'll lower the boat and see what I have for tongue weight. As mentioned by several folks, I can always put some weight at the stern for transport to the re-power shop, then get rid of it once at the shop.

So the boat is 20" back of its normal position on the trailer. I just need to lower it and check the tongue weight. The trailer itself (no load from the boat) has a tongue weight of 350 lbs.
 

tpenfield

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Having the transom scooted out the 20" from the bunks is actually helpful in verifying some of the measurements. I got one of those digital protractor thingys so I could measure the various angles.

IMG_8735.JPG
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The transom is 12˚, which I sort of knew from the drawings I got. Mercury recommends a 14˚ transom for the outboards, and Cruisers Yacht (CY) (the boat manufacturer) uses a 16˚ transom for their outboard models. (Tells me they needed a little more stern lift than standard) :rolleyes: .

Anyway, the underside of the swim deck is parallel with the keel (the 36.7" dimensions), which is good to know for building the extension. Dropping a perpendicular from the outer edge of the underside of the swim deck gives a measurement of 44" back to the transom. This will be the length of the additional planing surface of the extension.

I had a couple different drawings from CY showing the offset . . . one showed about 38" and another showed 44". So, 44" is the right number.

4 pieces (surfaces) of the extension pod will mate to the transom. I'm going to use some large paper stuck to the transom to actually trace these pieces. The couple of angles that I measured will indicate the bevel cuts to make in the Coosa board so that the pieces fit well together.

I also have been watching some online videos of building with Coosa. One thing that caught my eye was the use of "3M Marine High Strength Repair Putty" as an adhesive to bond the Coosa together (in addition to screws). The 3M stuff is a bit pricey, but the product information indicated that the adhesive is merely a milled fiber thickened VE resin. Hey, I will be using VE resin !!! :cool: So, instead of buying the 3M putty, I order some milled fiberglass. :p This was of interest to me as I did not want to use PL adhesive or anything similar.

That's all i got for now . . . I'll be away for a few days, but then back at it next week. (y)
 

Pmt133

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Which guys you watching? I've seen fishbump do some basic stuff with coosa but I kind of fell off looking into it once I went with ply for my rebuild. I do like learning though.
 

tpenfield

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Which guys you watching? I've seen fishbump do some basic stuff with coosa but I kind of fell off looking into it once I went with ply for my rebuild. I do like learning though.
I cannot recall specifically, Fish Bump comes up often.
 
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