here is a great video, you should pull your dist and coil and run this test, once you confirm you have spark on a bench, then you can move onto primary voltage
at this point i think you should be looking at that new distributor/module. its possible it was DOA
most good auto part stores can test the module . they also may have a module tester to loan out
i have a gimbal helmet that has the threads ripped out and i am in need of repairing it. will the helicoil hold up to the torque spec required to tighten the hing pin down?
yes , both are in full forward and it is not going to 12:00. thats the issue, it wont go full straight on with the stud.
i have tried 3 different shoes and they all land at the same spot yet line up perfectly on the other lower (#2)
hey there., so i have this gen 1 drive with a shift shaft that when in forward is off by about 1/8-1/4 inch. it just does not line up with the front stud. it is not a full tooth off.
you would think this would not be an issue and you can make up the difference in the linkage but that shaft...
im one person, cant hold the camera at the motor and shift it as well.
the throw is full ,fwd & rev.
when the linkage is connected , i put the shifter into gear and that noise appears. if i move the shifter only partially into gear does the noise not show up. but you cant shift a control box...
hi all, i have this Yamaha f150 that i replaced the cables on because the jackets were split. i installed OEM YAMAHA replacement cables on a
Yamaha - Right Side Flush Mount Control Box - 6X3-48206-10-00. the cables are the same in all aspects.
now when i start it up, its in neutral and it sounds...
so your saying he should install the drive on the boat, fill it with fluid, run it for 15 minutes, drain it again and pull a vacuum?
did i correctly understand that?
no, i didnt. from what i read, that tool screws onto the outer shaft and you use a bolt through the center of the tool to tighten against the inner shaft which pulls the outer shaft and carrier from the case. no?
