As always we need to know what your working on
You mentioned Manual 40 and cool fuel 3 and it's in the Merc section so it's probably safe to say you have a Merc and MPI, but other than that I know nothing
Have a serial number, maybe which MPI is it?
Is it open or closed cooling and single...
Manual 17 list Inboards to use MR43LTS and stern drives use MR43T, gap is different also
You might be getting close to a bit to lean or timing is not correct (gap .045 and 8* BTDC for MIE)
Is there a decal on the motor listing specs?
The B3 is probably the best at keeping straight than to Alpha and B1/B2 but they to can start to turn but normally not a quick hard turn
My guess is your boat has cable to power steering ram.
Is the skeg bent or damaged in any way?
How much play do you have at the helm?
Check the steering...
Welcome
Your questions are more general for many boats and not just Stingray.
Problems filling the tank is either a kink in the fill hose or most likely the vent line. The vent line is a smaller line which allows air to exit the tank as fuel is coming in. Check that line for a restriction
So...
and your serial number is 0L072052
Your motor has 3 switches that will sound the alarm and all are connected using a Tan/Blue wire. Oil pressure, Water Temp, Drive lube. Any one of these will sound the alarm.
The alarm will sound when key is turned ON because of low oil pressure. Once motor...
I wouldn't worry about doing that, you will be fine. When drive is used it will heat up and lube will expand, it will self purge in a few hours of running. Check and top off as needed. Once it drops a couple times it won't do it again unless there is a leak
Some install the drive and start...
How is your keep alive connection wired?
The Merc Master Tech that fixed my 1stMate issue also found wiring mistakes by manufacture with keep alive, and also with starboard FSM module
Fed regulation for tires to have a date code, look on the inside. 4 digites, first 2 digit month, next 2 is year
Being the tires are HT and not ST tells me they have been replaced at least once. ST Trailer, HT Truck
Agree with Dubs voltmeter will confirm
If ALT is putting out more than 14.5V then I would look at connections of sense lead and how feed back is going back to ALT
If the noise is coming from a burnt valve than it will show up in a compression test
If compression is within 10% all cylinders than remove drive to make sure it's not coming from it
Opinion
If it was a worn cam lope then the noise from that cylinder would be more then others
Have you run the motor without the drive on?
Have you done a warm compression test?
Doesn't sound like rods, more lifter/valve noise
Look at the rocker arm nuts, do they all look to be in about the same place?
Might have a collapsed lifter or 2
Could remove the valve cover and take a long screw driver. With motor running put metal tip or screw driver on rocker stud, and...
Fuel rail spec is 50 to 60 psi so your ok there.
Try this, turn key on and let it pump up, don't turn key off and watch pressure.
Could even try nut a short time, turn off and back on (no restart) and watch
What I'm testing for is an intermittent ground on one or two injectors. With key on...
I've removed several using a Merc tool and never had one even begin to slip. Have had a few tools which should have been rockwell hardened but were not and snapped/stripped. That said I've never done one which was used in salt
