To test he fuel pump: take it apart, take pics and watch the arrows when reassembling.
If it backfired at any time?? then it might have blown a gasket or 2
The port cover gaskets can pop out on the edges and suck air.
Starting Fluid test. Start the motor and spray starting fluid around the...
Be careful when lubing the bendix. Too much grease can ruin it. One tiny bit of grease on the rubber up in the bendix will destroy it.
Clean the worm gear and lube it, just don't over do it.\
That starter is real easy to open and clean. You'd be surprised how much crud ends up in the bottom...
You using the cables that came on the boat?
If so: and it still won't turn?? then the boat equipment is faulty.
Get new cables or maybe the solenoid is bad? or wired wrong?
1994 115 P115TLRS 060713
Steering is VERRRRY tight, tried to use heat and add grease and it still is very tight.
I don't have a service manual.
I know it's a big job, any tips or procedures to fix the kingpin and bushings??
Thanks
Jumper cables won't provide enough power to turn the starter while on the motor, unless you have #4/2/00 size wire for jumper cables.
Then the clamps need to be HEAVY DUTY too.
The battery? load test it?? Battery testers about 25$ at Harbor Freight.
That's one of the tools they sell that...
What's the years on the motors??
Looks like they are both close as both use mainly Mercury equipment(pack/coils etc.)
The lower units are different in the shaft they use. 5" difference.
If you post the year of the 2nd motor I can compare the parts and see if the shafts can interchange.
Does it shift when the linkage is unhooked??
Motor running? needs to run to allow shifting.
Unhook it and shift by hand, as you shift turn the prop as it needs to move to allow the gear/dog to mesh.
That's why Mercury was more expensive, less bells and whistles on the Force.
Yet the Force had one of the best lower units made.
If you kept the oil changed and made sure no water got in the lower lasted and lasted.
Had a pair of 88/85 30 years and never needed any work other than fresh oil.
Chris1956 his pump doesn't have either one of the things you describe.
His manual release is undoing the front hydraulic line where it goes into the front of the pump.
The Nyloc nut: if it comes loose too easy??? It can turn itself and fall off along with the prop and hardware.
Had one come loose, luckily it was still on the ramp and could be seen when the water calmed down.
The owner had just bought a new stainless prop. $450
ONE IMPORTANT THING!!!! There is NOTHING in the actual pump that you can fix, NOTHING!!!
The seals that usually leak aren't part of the pump.
It's real easy to screw up the T@T be extra careful when taking it apart.
IF??? it's ever been in salt water?? That can make the job extra hard or...
Yes
I used the Racor for over 30 years and never had a problem.
The metal canisters are subject to rust and corrosion and they can collapse when trying to remove them. Salt water destroys them and the mount for the filter. The Racor is more expensive but you get what you pay for.
Just change the fittings to what ever size the hose is.
The better or more expensive the filter the better the results.
I ran a Racor with the clear bowl and water drain on the bottom.
That way you can see any water build up.
