I would bypass the kill (man overboard) switch or at least check the voltage on each side of it with the key turned on.
Since you have power to the bilge and blower, that shows the 50A breaker is ok.
Do you have a picture of the wiring of your alternator we can see?
I put an answer on your other post. Assuming this is the same alternator that has the external regulator, switch to a new alternator with an internal regulator.
Sounds good. Once your brakes are bled, I can actually imagine it takes some good effort.
Think about it, that thin stainless cable needs to be strong enough to pull that lever. Not sure it could handle 1200# myself.
Take it out for a test ride and see how it works.
Travel trailers typically don't have surge brakes like boat trailers have. Anderson hitches are incompatible with surge brakes.
Please tell me you aren't towing a 29' travel trailer with a GMC Canyon.
I actually had the EXACT same one that you have. I also have a few of the newer versions of the one you have. With the one that you have, I eventually locked it out when I put on an EOH system.
This is the one I put on my disc brake trailer I just sold...
The lever doesn't require 1200# to actuate it. I just put a pair of vise grips on the lever to give me enough leverage to operate mine. That's how I bleed the brakes.
As far as electric brakes go, I can't stand drum brakes wether they are electric or hydraulic. That's why my trailer had disc...
That's the neutral safety switch in the diagram. The kill switch(not shown) should not prevent the engine fron cranking since it is inline with the ignition side of the ignition switch.
@alldodge no good deed goes unpunished!
You have the Volvo EEM system. This is the manual for the one you have. Go to section 7.
After you read about it, you will see why I just ditched it in favor of a new Delco Voyager. Volvo only put this system on for 2 years and when you read about it, you will see why. I change mine out BEFORE...
You may have to look at the voltage to your electronic ignition with the key in the on position. Somehow, you are getting voltage while you are cranking but not when the ignition is in the start position.
You have the same exact engine/drive in the boat I just sold. I actually pulled the...
What year is this engine?
Smartcraft sensor?
Really hard to believe that an exhaust flapper would be causing a water pressure issue without causing WAY more other issues like overheating and/or poor engine performance.
Depends on the year and the engine model. My Volvo Penta 7.4L had an oil cooler. I actually had to change mine since it leaked and I lost all my engine oil.
All those pieces that are under water...if you are only overheating at idle, they aren't your issue.
The volvo manual states that you should remove the hose feeding the thermostat and you should have an inch of head at that point with the hiose vertical. mercruiser actually ahs a test where...
A weight distributing hitch puts some weight back onto the front axle which was removed by putting the heavy tongue weight on the back of the truck. Makes handling WAY better since the front axle weight isn't too light anymore.
